Ballistic64
Well-Known Member
If you dont want a muzzle brake on for hunting, just pull it off and screw on a thread protector. A brake for target/practice shooting can prevent some bad habits. JMO
I have a .300 WSM that started life as a sporter weight. I shot everything from 150s to 220s through it and honestly, until you went prone, none of those were horrible. Once prone, I could shoot 15 to 20 of the 220s and done. Once I rebuilt it into a long range gun, I can shoot the 220s all day prone and be fine. Something I discovered by accident, if you the load 220 SMK the same length to the ogive as the MK 316 (~ 2.815 COAL), it gets pretty darn accurate. Get it up to 2850 or so with a 26" barrel and it is pretty boring at 500 yards. Also, something about that .300 WSM, the barrels don't burn out like most magnums. I had over 4000 rounds through my sporter barrel and while I had moved the throat forward over 60 thou, it wasn't cracked as bad as the smith was expecting. One very good match shooter also won a match with a .300 WSM that had well over 4000 rounds through it. Ok, I wandered a bit there.
If it has all the features, get it.How bad is the recoil of a 300 wsm if the combined weight of the rifle and scope are around twelve pounds? I have ran across a GREAT deal locally on one as I was looking for a 308 to play with on the bench this summer. The rifle is exactly what I am after only in 300wsm instead of 308. I really would rather not put a break on it as I will use it for hunting some as well. Just wondering what everyones thought are. It is a 1-10 twist, so I don't know what weight I will need to shoot so that i get proper stabilization, but I know the heavier the grain weight, the harder its going to kick. Thought?