Recoil Bedding; Attempt on HMR

[JAYgs8163]

The lug should not be propping up the rifle so it rocks if that's what you're asking.

 

[Dean2]

First off, you did a very nice job of removing the old JB. The heat gun and screw driver trick is WAY easier, both in speed and mess, than trying to Dremel or sand out the material.

Second, if the action rocks in the stock it is not likely going to shoot very well. As far as the recoil lug area, I never relieved one enough to know if there was metal behind the stock material. There has always been more than enough room to get a good coverage of Devcon in there without making it any bigger.

Be interested to hear how it shoots without the bedding. My bet is +2".

 

[General RE LEE]

First off, you did a very nice job of removing the old JB. The heat gun and screw driver trick is WAY easier, both in speed and mess, than trying to Dremel or sand out the material.

Second, if the action rocks in the stock it is not likely going to shoot very well. As far as the recoil lug area, I never relieved one enough to know if there was metal behind the stock material. There has always been more than enough room to get a good coverage of Devcon in there without making it any bigger.

Be interested to hear how it shoots without the bedding. My bet is +2".

I did load development before bedding it and 57.5 grains H1000 147 ELDM 2925 FPS got around .75 MOA. I will see how it shoots now. I can always go back and bed again.

How do I bed the tang area without messing up?

 

[JAYgs8163]

I did load development before bedding it and 57.5 grains H1000 147 ELDM 2925 FPS got around .75 MOA. I will see how it shoots now. I can always go back and bed again.

How do I bed the tang area without messing up?

There are numerous quality YouTube videos showing bedding tutorials. That's where I'd start.

 

[Dean2]

I did load development before bedding it and 57.5 grains H1000 147 ELDM 2925 FPS got around .75 MOA. I will see how it shoots now. I can always go back and bed again.

How do I bed the tang area without messing up?

Make sure you remove the trigger group for the first few you do. With that removed it is really hard to mess up. As stated the YouTube videos are good, as is the information on Brownells site.

Put this query in you search bar and you will get a ton of info.

Brownells bedding video

 

[General RE LEE]

There are numerous quality YouTube videos showing bedding tutorials. That's where I'd start.

Roger that.

When cleaning up the lug channel, I wasn't sure if I was removing remaining bedding material or actual stock material so I stopped. I might not have gone deep enough and the lug is not seated fully and is creating the rocking. I will email Bergara and see if the bottom of the channel is aluminum or polymer.'

Thanks for your help everyone!

 

[Dean2]

Roger that.

When cleaning up the lug channel, I wasn't sure if I was removing remaining bedding material or actual stock material so I stopped. I might not have gone deep enough and the lug is not seated fully and is creating the rocking. I will email Bergara and see if the bottom of the channel is aluminum or polymer.'

Thanks for your help everyone!

If the action is rocking in the stock, my bet would be it is rocking on the pillar. If you want to see if the lug is going fully in, put a little Prussian Blue, or anything you have that will go on thin and be visible where it touches the stock, on the bottom of the recoil lug and push it into the stock. You will be able to see blue on the bottom of the lug recess if the bottom is touching the stock. It is very unlikely the bottom of the lug recess has any metal in it.

 

[nealm66]

You're getting there! You see the rocking. Try wrapping the barrel with electrical tape to center and hold it up a bit out of the recessed lug area. Then wrap a 1/8 wide strip around the tang until it lays perfectly flat. This works for me, and I think you'll see what I'm talking about when you try it

 

[General RE LEE]

You're getting there! You see the rocking. Try wrapping the barrel with electrical tape to center and hold it up a bit out of the recessed lug area. Then wrap a 1/8 wide strip around the tang until it lays perfectly flat. This works for me, and I think you'll see what I'm talking about when you try it

10-4. Is that process to identify where to add bedding?

 

[nealm66]

Well, it's so the action is flat with no chance of unwanted contact causing rock or stress. Then I bed everything except in front of the lug unless markv action or similar

 

[VALKYRIETP]

Static Mixers

J-B Weld® Static Mixers are easy-to-use attachments for any of J-B Weld® 25 ml syringes that allow for precise mixing of our two-component adhesives.

www.jbweld.com

These work pretty good with the JB WELD

https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-syringe.
T.P.

 

[General RE LEE]

Got home and dremeled out the channel. There was a lot of material in the channel I didn't get. Will check for rocking shortly and re bed

 

[JAYgs8163]

The tape

Got home and dremeled out the channel. There was a lot of material in the channel I didn't get. Will check for rocking shortly and re bed

Make sure you take your time and do a excellent job on prepping everything. I learned this the hard way my first go around. No need to rush.

 

[General RE LEE]

Second, if the action rocks in the stock it is not likely going to shoot very well.

So I did some reading in this and what I discovered makes sense. A free floated barrel, especially a heavier barrel like the varmint contour in my Bergara HMR, is going to "see saw" slightly on the recoil lug. With the action screws removed, gravity is going to pull the muzzle down till it makes contact with the stock which, in turn, raise the tang slightly off the stock.

This is what I have observed with my action screws removed. I don't think I have a problem cause my barrel is free floated and heavy.