"Rebounding" NATO 7.62 brass???

If you are going for maximum accuracy you're using the wrong brass! Get some Lapua and you'll never look back.

If it's just plinking or something higher volume, like hog hunting, I use the RCBS small base dies and have not had any problems with mixed lots of military brass. Then again, even before I got the small base dies, using the regular RCBS dies I never had any problems in a factory Rem. 788 or HK91. I got the small base dies because I got a custom setup now that has a tight chamber. Most military ammo will not chamber in this rifle. I've had brass that has sat for years after sizing and it still chambers in my factory rifle. I haven't had the custom rifle long enough to test any brass that has been sized and left sitting long enough to test this rebounding idea but it's certainly a possibility.
Cheers,
crkckr
 
I would size in the Standard Die first and then in a second sizing use the small base die. I have ran 7.62 shot through an M60 machine gun that I had to really put the pressure on the press handle to size. I have stuck a case or two over the years also. I hope that newer weapons do not swell the cases as much.

Bob R
 
Interesting. I always thought to anneal after sizing, because my sizing was going to harden the brass some small amount. But what you say makes sense, plus it would help with any "rebounding" or spring back of the brass when resizing.

I too always use dwell time on the press...

Vettepilot
 
The problem you are having is most probably the base of the case as this is typically the portion of the case that is least sized in a regular die and often the most blown out portion of a once fired piece from a semi-auto firearm. Your two solutions are the correct approach. But you will likely need to trim, and sometimes it can be 0.020" for rounds fired in a machine gun.

When I used once fired 308 brass I used a small base die and a Hornady Unique Case Lube.
 
No! Anneal before sizing. The annealing can change the shape of the case some. I found this to be interesting in annealing. De-prime, clean, anneal, resize, check you case length or setup and run the cases through a case trimmer. I trim or place the case, in case trimmer every time to be sure that the cases are all the same length. Why I set and case trim after sizing? To be sure that my cases are all the same.
 
I did read an article I believe on here a year or so ago where a guy actually tested holding time on sizing brass and proved at least for his situation that holding the brass up for the count of 3 made better brass. He said it was to let the brass relax against the confines of the die. When you just go up and down the brass is flexing and recovering back somewhat to what it was. By holding it in place it comes to rest where you want it. He was mainly looking at case mouth but I would suggest to helps the whole case. Anyway I hold each one the at least 3 count.
Try it for yourselves. It not always about speed. Good workmanship makes better cases.
 
I have a question about some of the NATO 7.62 brass I'm prepping for use.

About 10 years ago when I lived in South Carolina, I stocked up on used NATO 7.62 brass. Over the years, I've reloaded about 1k rounds for plinking and deer/hog hunting. None of these rounds were intended for long range use. I would resize and reload in the same sitting.

On Monday (1/23/23) I resized about 100 cases of PMJ 06' using my RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme with a RCBS .308 F L Die Set (P/N 15501). On every 10th case, I cycled in the chamber of a R700 .308 and in Wilson Case Gage. Each round fit perfectly in the Wilson Case Gage and cycled in the R700.

Last night (1/26/23), when prepping the mouths of the 100 cases, I noticed that while they cycle in the R700, they now do not fit as well in the Wilson Case Gage as they did 3 nights before.

In reading from several sources later last night and earlier today, I read about a few potential causes: ( 1 ) "rebounding" if I don't hold the cases for 5-6 seconds per cycle, and ( 2 ) the possible need for small base die.

I noticed a crack in the toggle block (replacements parts are on the way) so my Rock Chucker is currently disassembled and can't try resizing currently.

Anyone with experience reloading NATO 7.62 brass willing to chime in?

Thanks,

Scrmblr1982cj8
I have question also, where can i find 224 valkrie brass? Just getting started and cant find any.
 
I have a question about some of the NATO 7.62 brass I'm prepping for use.

About 10 years ago when I lived in South Carolina, I stocked up on used NATO 7.62 brass. Over the years, I've reloaded about 1k rounds for plinking and deer/hog hunting. None of these rounds were intended for long range use. I would resize and reload in the same sitting.

On Monday (1/23/23) I resized about 100 cases of PMJ 06' using my RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme with a RCBS .308 F L Die Set (P/N 15501). On every 10th case, I cycled in the chamber of a R700 .308 and in Wilson Case Gage. Each round fit perfectly in the Wilson Case Gage and cycled in the R700.

Last night (1/26/23), when prepping the mouths of the 100 cases, I noticed that while they cycle in the R700, they now do not fit as well in the Wilson Case Gage as they did 3 nights before.

In reading from several sources later last night and earlier today, I read about a few potential causes: ( 1 ) "rebounding" if I don't hold the cases for 5-6 seconds per cycle, and ( 2 ) the possible need for small base die.

I noticed a crack in the toggle block (replacements parts are on the way) so my Rock Chucker is currently disassembled and can't try resizing currently.

Anyone with experience reloading NATO 7.62 brass willing to chime in?

Thanks,

Scrmblr1982cj8
I bought 500 pcs of used military brass most of it was lake city it was extremely difficult to size I had to get some imperial sizing wax to be able to size it without getting it stuck in my full length dies then I had to run it back through a small base dies it was a pain but as I'd spent the money on them it was was just more work but they work fine now for bot my bolt gun and semi auto gun. I was told that the brass had probably been shot through a m40 with a worn out chamber I pulled the rim off of half dozen pcs before I started using the imperial sizing wax
 
with military brass i always anneal before sizing, you just dont know what chamber or how sloppy the chamber was on the weapon it was shot out of.
i have used plenty of LC and WCC over the years and annealing first was the ticket.
Thanks for that tip I hadn't thought about annealing before sizing it makes good sense 👍
 

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