Rebarreling a rifle how far do we need to go.

I am getting some good information thanks guys. I have a friend with a 300 RUM built on a Weatherby MK V action and it shoots great. My hope is my MK V project will turn out the same. I don't want to break the bank but still want a shooter when done. Being in Canada my costs will likely be higher then what some of you have posted.
 
Ok we have an old worn out rifle we want to rebarrel how far do we need to go. Will putting a new barrel on alone improve it much over a factory rifle. Should we have some work done on the action. Do we need a new stock or will bedding the old stock help enough. With that said I am assuming the old stock fits you really good and you enjoy it. So as asked assuming we want a real shooter just how far do we need to go.
My preference would be to do the work while replacing the barrel. I lean toward eliminating as many variables as possible in making an accurate rifle.
 
It just takes a few minutes to face the reciever to insure that it is square. Lapping the bolt recoil lugs to the receiver shouldn't take long either. Spending 45 minutes to an hour extra time is well worth the effort. If a surface grinder is available to insure the recoil lug is perfectly flat is also a good investment. Also while your at it, a good pillar and bedding job wouldn't hurt either. Holy ****, isn't that called a custom rifle.
 
Ok we have an old worn out rifle we want to rebarrel how far do we need to go. Will putting a new barrel on alone improve it much over a factory rifle. Should we have some work done on the action. Do we need a new stock or will bedding the old stock help enough. With that said I am assuming the old stock fits you really good and you enjoy it. So as asked assuming we want a real shooter just how far do we need to go.
Budget was not mentioned...So, I going to assume you're like many of us....Not RICH & not POOR, kinda in the middle. Having said that I'm not the type that believes half measure.
I'm also going to assume it's an action worthy of spending some $$$ on.
Yes, a new barrel would be a big improvement. I would say,
1st a highly skilled smith.
2nd a high quality bbl.
3rd True the action & square the bolt face, polish raceways and lugs.
4. tune the trigger, replace "if" necessary.

On the stock, here's where you "might" save some money...
If it's still in nice shape and still feels good and solid and fits the shooter correctly.
I'd pillar and glass bed it... For a hunting rifle this is usually adequate.
This will allow you to judge if you want to go the extra mile for a new stock.

Example, Here's couple of my shoot'n Irons. Both with the treatment I mentioned.
1. Rem 700 Mountain, 22" Lilja bbl, .223AI w/ Basix Trigger @ 1.8lbs topped w/ 5x20x44 SF
2. HOWA 1500, 25-284, 24"Lilja, Lee SIX Stock, factory trigger @ 2.10 lbs w/Ziess 4.5x14x44 SF
Both rifles have Warne Rings & Bases

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I should of said it is a Weatherby action. The trigger right now is at 9 ounces pull wieght may turn that upa bit. The stock is I believe a B&C made for Weatherby. I like the Boyds at one stock but not the recoil pad it comes with.

If I were having this rifle re-barreled, the only thing I would consider doing is maybe having the action bedded to the stock and having the action checked for true. I skim bed job like that is pretty reasonable usually. It is my understanding that those Vanguard actions are generally pretty true out of the box.

As for the barrel a lot of guys will tell you that you have to put a Kreiger/ Bartlien on it or nothing but putting a Shilen / Brux on it is more reasonable and still a quality barrel.
 
Wild Bill G, IF you start this project: you will not be unhappy you did.
yes, a truing of the action will help if your gunsmith finds some small imperfections, and he will. putting on a good barrel will be the base for a great shooter, the B&C stock will most likely need to be altered and bedded, then work up a good load and you should be attaining just about the best accuracy you can. this rifle will attain much better accuracy than off the shelf rifles. Do what you can afford and your rifle will serve you well for many years to come.
just a side note, if you provide your gunsmith with a few resized cases he can check your cases against his job and advise you on offset of your dies to match his chambering job.
 
Adding a good new barrel will have it shooting again. Now there is a list of checks the smith needs to make to insure what is out of spec. is identified. Then it is up to you to determine how far you would like to go. Good receivers come from the factory, as custom can have issues also (typically at a very low occurrence). Again checking specs. and slugging the barrel to check it. This setup and checking is what you pay for to provide the great success.
 
Well, that depends... and I'm glad you put in terms of need vs want.

So I'll ask this: What do you need the rifle to do?

I'll offer this: sometimes all one needs is a new, quality barrel. Anecdotally, I have had one rifle that was a solid MOA, good enough for the deer at the farm and ride in the truck. I got it rebarreled with a heavier varmint taper and I'm getting a pretty consistent .6 MOA grouping, 30% improvement with just a barrel change. The action and stock are still "off the rack".

Just my $.02
 
I should of said it is a Weatherby action. The trigger right now is at 9 ounces pull wieght may turn that upa bit. The stock is I believe a B&C made for Weatherby. I like the Boyds at one stock but not the recoil pad it comes with.
I am getting some good information thanks guys. I have a friend with a 300 RUM built on a Weatherby MK V action and it shoots great. My hope is my MK V project will turn out the same. I don't want to break the bank but still want a shooter when done. Being in Canada my costs will likely be higher then what some of you have posted.
A lot of good advice. Choosing a barrel is both easy and difficult. Easy because there are several great SS And CM barrel manufacturers out there. Difficult (crap shoot) unless you do your homework = choose a barrel's rifling, twist and length based on your rifle's intended use. A Mark V (or vanguard) action is a plus. But how did that rifle get a Bell & Carlson stock? Older Mark V's usually have beautiful walnut wood stocks in Weatherby's California MC style. The stocks alone add value to older Weatherby rifles. Your gunsmith can make the call on truing the action, timing the bolt, etc and give you a price. I believe bedding the action to the stock is an inexpensive way to insure better accuracy, but I would replace the B&C stock. You can bed the stock yourself (YouTube videos are abundant). Balance the upgrade costs. Then decide to keep it or sell it.
 
Once there was this chick named Pandora...

Seriously, budget tends to determine results. I've had 2 rifles re-barreled, but never one I hadn't already tweaked at least somewhat. Laminated stocks, pillar bedded, aftermarket triggers on both. I've also built several DIY savages now and like the results from those experiments, but oh! the price difference...
 
I believe bedding the action to the stock is an inexpensive way to insure better accuracy, but I would replace the B&C stock.

Why replace a stock with a machined aluminum bedding block that is fairly light.....a They are pretty stiff and light. I know they get a bad rep, but that seems related to whomever mounts it and the paint finish.
 
Ok we have an old worn out rifle we want to rebarrel how far do we need to go. Will putting a new barrel on alone improve it much over a factory rifle. Should we have some work done on the action. Do we need a new stock or will bedding the old stock help enough. With that said I am assuming the old stock fits you really good and you enjoy it. So as asked assuming we want a real shooter just how far do we need to go.
Get a barrel from a highly regarded manufacturer. Make sure the twist rate is appropriate for the bullet you want to shoot. Have a reputable Smith chamber it with the optimal freebore for the bullet/cartridge combo that you want to shoot. You can spend as much money as you want to, but a good barrel with what I have mentioned will provide 90% of the accuracy potential you will be able to achieve. People spend ridiculous amounts of money chasing the last 10% and it's possible they may not see the benefit. A bedding job will be a good idea. Floating the barrel will be beneficial also.
 
Why replace a stock with a machined aluminum bedding block that is fairly light.....a They are pretty stiff and light. I know they get a bad rep, but that seems related to whomever mounts it and the paint finish.
Why? There is a reason for its bad rep. The reviews of B&C stocks confirm it. Shoulder one. Fire two 300 Weatherby magnum shots and see if it holds POI. I agree that an Al bedding block works fine for some stocks.
 
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