RCBS SUMMIT PRESS
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md66948
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Savage 12BVSS
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Runout is how straight a bullet is seated in the case. If it is tipped slightly it will show on a dial indicator and can be straightened with some tools. It can come from the case neck being tweaked by the sizing die or it can be seated slightly off by the seater die. A good straight action/bolt face to the chamber in the barrel will often spring the bullet straight when chambered but this is usually in a custom built rifle. Some loaders really don't even check it while others are obsessed with it. Target and bench shooters don't usually load with much if any runout. Takes a pretty accurate gun to see its effect or lack thereof. Factory ammo or reloads, all ammo usually has some amount of runout( I do have some die combinations and seaters that produce as many as half the rounds under .001) . There are checking tools to measure it and some have the ability to push the bullet straight and correct it. Hope that makes sense... Dave
Thanks, to all who have answered. OK, now, you run the cases through the siesing die, that die sizes and knocks out the old primer. Now the case goes through the rest of the steps, new primer, deburing ect. Now the powder goes in, the bullet goes in. This is the confusing part. Going back to the first step, sizeing, the die should have made the neck straight, so when the bullet is put in the bullet goes in straight. You are telling me it does not go in straight.
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bigedp51
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One of the biggest causes of bullet runout happens when the expander is locked down off center. This will pull the case neck off center causing the case neck to tilt.
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One of the biggest causes of bullet runout happens when the expander is locked down off center. This will pull the case neck off center causing the case neck to tilt. OK, that exlpains things a lot better. if a expander is off center, than it would be a defective die. What would be the fix? How cridical is this.
I use a Rockchucker I also bought in the early 70s
Works like a charm. I'm from a benchrest background. I seat with an L E Wilson in line seater. Haven't used the regular press seater in years. Just checked runout on shells I loaded last night. Less than a half thousandths runout. That's important to me even with a hunting rifle
Having said that I also got very good runout on 7 RUM I loaded with the Hornady seater die last time.
Works like a charm. I'm from a benchrest background. I seat with an L E Wilson in line seater. Haven't used the regular press seater in years. Just checked runout on shells I loaded last night. Less than a half thousandths runout. That's important to me even with a hunting rifle
Having said that I also got very good runout on 7 RUM I loaded with the Hornady seater die last time.
GL, can I have a moment and some advice based on your experience?
In my resizing I pull the sizer stem when I FL resize. Instead I neck size using a carbide mandrel from Sinclair. Generally use Forster or Redding seating dies. I have read mixed reviews on Lee's collet sizer, are they better than using a mandrel to control runout?
I'm note a competitive shooter just love reloading for accuracy.
Thanks if you have time to give me your thoughts.
Doug
Had an RCBS Rockchucker for 20+ years, traded it in for an RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme, extremely happy with the replacement and would highly recommend it to anyone. I put thousands and thousands of rounds through the RCBS Rockchucker, and only replaced it because I got a great deal on the Supreme. Because of design I am not a fan of the Summit press, would opt out for the Rock Chucker Supreme or hold out for the Forster Co Ax would be my suggestion.
This is a basic list of the process that I use to reload rifle ammunition:
1. Inspect the cases for defects/split necks and deformities.
2. Use a universal depriming tool to deprime all the cases.
3. Salt bath anneal or anneal all brass.
4. Tumble or clean all the brass before doing any more processes on the brass.
5. Lubricate brass with Hornady "One Shot" lube and full length resize all of the brass with the expander plug out of the resizing die.
6. Neck size the brass with a Sinclair mandrel neck sizing tool. Neck turning
could be done after this process if one chose to neck turn.
7. Measure all of the cases and trim to the shortest length of the batch of brass that I am working with.If the brass is good brass I would trim to factory specs, however not all brass allows this to be done due to it being out of specs to begin with; too short.
8. Remove all burrs—inside and outside—on the neck.
9. Prime all of the brass with an RCBS hand priming tool.
10.Measure powder and fill brass, using a loading block for powder inspection. I visually inspect powder levels before seating bullets to make sure that the casings are not overcharges or under charged (empty/this happens).
11. Seat bullets
It is important to remember that this is a basic list/definition/steps of the process that I use to reload rifle ammunition.
There are a number of variables that will/can cause bullet runout. A press where the ram is not in perfect alignment with die holder will cause runout, spring in some of the "C" presses or progressive presses can cause run out due to many moving parts or lose parts, a poorly machined set of dies can cause bullet runout, not getting the bullet aligned straight in the seating die can cause runout; again there are many variables that will/can cause bullet runout.
Just curious if you have a mentor who would help you with the information that you are getting on this thread? If you had a mentor it would help you out tremendously, if not you are in the right place to get answers and help with your questions and keep asking we all had to start somewhere.
I have no experience with the Lee tool. I like the mandrel, especially if you don't turn your necks to uniform wall thicknesses.
I'm wanting to add a press MEC or Co axle
Trying to figure out the summit
Trying to figure out the summit
Thank you,
I have no experience with a Mec, having said that my 40 yr. old Pacific and Bonanza co-ax make a great team. The co-ax does all the precision work, and with great results. FWIW.
ericbc7
Well-Known Member
You can reduce runout caused by a slight miss alignment of the expander with the die body by "floating" the expander. Put an o-ring between the expander stem and the lock nut on top of the die. It won't fix a poorly made die but can improve an already acceptable die.
Also use dry lube inside the case neck and/or a carbide expander button.
Also use dry lube inside the case neck and/or a carbide expander button.
