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RCBS Chargemaster 1500 - Power conditioner ?

A small UPS will supply nice clean voltage. Most will convert your AC power to DC to power the battery then convert the DC back ino AC most have filters and regulators that provide nice clean AC power. Having a good earth ground(rod) close by will also help.
I usually warm up my machines for about 10 minutes and run a couple of tablespoon full of graphite thru for 4 or 5 throws as it kills static.
 
I warm my charge master lite up. I have definitely seen it drift. Haven't extensively tested it. Seems like my problems occur if I throw a charge and then get pulled away from the bench with the powder charge in the pan, still on the scale. If I come back some time later (let's say, half an hour?) and fill my case and place the then empty pan on the scale, it is several tenths off of zero.

Probably will do the same if the pan is removed for an extended period of time, as one member suggested.

Other than that, I can't say I've noticed any specific problems. The scale and all fluorescent and LED lights in my reloading room are all run off the same receptacle (old house with old receptacle placement in that room still). Scale is directly under LED and fluorescent light fixtures, seems to be ok.
 
I've been using an RCBS Chargemaster 1500 for several years now and rarely have had any issues with it, but I've got a few questions.

1. Is there any real advantage to using a power conditioner, like a Tripp-Lite? Are they worth the extra $275? (All of my lighting is currently LED)

2. Often I hear guys say that they let the Chargemaster "warm up". Is this really necessary? How long do some of you warm up your Chargemaster and for how long? Have you seen this make a difference?
Are you experiencing any power related issues? Are you talking about power conditioners for the entire house? ($275) You could get a battery backup unit just for your bench for a lot less. I use one for stable power, but then i use it for electronic work also. (Not while Im loading obviously) If you have brown(low) power flux episodes then it may be a good idea. Do your lights dimmer now and then? Take a look. Call and file complaints at your power company. That's the way I got it fixed- somewhat. It did take 6 years though (total BS). I do warm up my Chargemaster and my Hornady Auto. At least 15 minutes is required for their circuits to warm and stabilize properly- Per their directions. If your loading room is real cold, below 50f, I would suggest a warm up time of 30 minutes. But that's just me.
 
.3 gr variation upon reweighing...sounds like something's wrong with that charge master. I have done the same- pulled bullets, reweighed, usually spot on, once in a while on the hairy edge of coming back .1 diff. From original. Sometime is it after I weigh a batch I will go back and spot check, even after turning the scale off for a while, and coming back before seating, they weigh the same.

One tip to me is that my tray weighs 85.1 gr. If it shows different I know somethings off. I rarely "need" to recalibrate. I also check with a couple of standardized (known weight) Berger bullets before weighing a batch.

My SDs with 4 rifles shooting their best loads are mostly single digit or else close to it. Some loads are consistently under 5fps. Meanwhile weigh time vs mechanical scale plummeted. Not sure what more I could ask.

I let it warm up 5 - 10 min. Fluorescent or incandescent lights plugged into the same circuit, no effect.
 
I didn't read all the replies so if someone else already provided guidance similar to this, my apologies :)

I'm an Electrical Engineer by degree and have been in IT for 30+ years with a good deal of dealing with issues resulting from power supplied to systems.

In general - yes - sensitive measuring devices can be susceptible so they need "good enough" power ... how "good" is "good enough" ... well how much "truck" is "enough truck"? ...

In general - yes - you need to let sensitive measuring devices "warm up" a bit ... as solid state electronics (those running off silicon based circuitry vs analog tubes) change temperature, the properties of the silicon change ever so slightly. For most things it doesn't matter. But for VERY sensitive measuring devices, it might be enough if there is a significant temp change.

Your biggest risk is actually damage to the sensitive electronics resulting from surges, spikes, drops, brownouts, etc.

In my opinion, the most cost effective way to handle all of this is to utilize a simple Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) available at about any walmart, or amazon, etc ... it will provide great surge protection as well as condition the power and even protect in the event of a drop or sudden power outage. You won't need a large/expensive one for a scale ... $100-$150 will probably do ya ... but you can always spend lots more if you like. :)


T
 
I warm my charge master lite up. I have definitely seen it drift. Haven't extensively tested it. Seems like my problems occur if I throw a charge and then get pulled away from the bench with the powder charge in the pan, still on the scale. If I come back some time later (let's say, half an hour?) and fill my case and place the then empty pan on the scale, it is several tenths off of zero.

Probably will do the same if the pan is removed for an extended period of time, as one member suggested.

Other than that, I can't say I've noticed any specific problems. The scale and all fluorescent and LED lights in my reloading room are all run off the same receptacle (old house with old receptacle placement in that room still). Scale is directly under LED and fluorescent light fixtures, seems to be ok.
This.

Yes, drift occurs under this circumstance...leave a charge on the scale for a period of time. Once in this state it can be re-zeroed and continue throwing charges. Or take the pan off and let it sit and eventually it will zero out again. It's as if it bottoms out with a charge on there for a while, then springs back of I take the tray off and let it return to its resting position.
Interestingly, I have zeroed with the pan on, left it turned on overnight, and in the morning it's still showing zero and weights are correct.

In any event my loads turn out pretty consistent. Not annealing after 2 firings starts to create a velocity spread though.
 
I use one, but probably not like most people. I found it to be less precise than I desired so I measure out each load 0.3 grains light and trickle in the rest on a beam scale. I've seen my velocity ES and SDs come down quite a bit. I also verify the accuracy of the beam scale every so often with reference weights. Once you have a rhythm it doesn't add much time at all.

For non-critical stuff like bulk, short-range stuff I still use it.

Before I changed, I pulled some bullets and measured the charges. There was a powder variation of up to 0.3 grains. As for a warm-up period…… we're not using vacuum tubes. I don't think a little power fluctuation will matter much either, but that's just my general gestalt from my engineering days. I think microfriction from sitting a while is probably more important than an electronic "warm-up."
When my Gen 6 auto dispenser finishes metering a charge, the display shows exactly what the charge weighs. You can accept it or not.
What is microfiction? An electronic balance uses a strain gauge that then converts the signal to the digital readout. Sitting or microfriction would apply to beam balance as the knife edge gets worn the balance loses it accuracy or repeatability.
 
ALL my electronics are on an Uninteruptable Power supply (UPS) to get smother A/C and to prevent surges and other issues they solve. I habe used other power conditioning equipment over the years, but this works for me. I always allow any measuring devices I use to warm up per manufacturer recommendations.
 

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