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Rcbs charge master ???????????

And TWO good reasons why NOT to vacuum spilled powder up are....??

1)
2)


?

1) The static buildup in your vacuum, or the sparks from the motor can ignite the powder. If your bag has accumulated any amount of powder, this could be very unpleasant.

2) See #1
 
Been using the straw trick for years and years. In my first Lyman 1200 and now in the chargemaster. Its just something that needs done to all of them. After this they will drop to the 10th gr and only miss maybe one out of 25 or so.

Jeff

Cool, thanks for the info. I'll give it a try tomorrow.
 
Do what you want...I just don't do things that labels of any hazardous or flammable material tell me not to. But I'm also the guy that wears eye pro when reloading.
 
1) The static buildup in your vacuum, or the sparks from the motor can ignite the powder. If your bag has accumulated any amount of powder, this could be very unpleasant.

2) See #1


HORSE MANURE! Aint no static buildup in my little shop sweeper...???..and Im talking GRAINS....you know..."granules" of powder...not POUNDS of powder.

Its an old wives tale and your just perpetuating it is all...nothing more
 
Need to look up the Triboelectric Series. You will find that PVC's, rubber et. al. are on the bottom of the list meaning they are the LEAST likely to discharge static electricity. That is mainly what most shop vac hoses are made of.

After all they wrap electric wire in PVC or something similar

More dangerous to load while standing on carpet and the static electricity accumulated in your body to discharge onto your brass

Once saw a video where a bunch of black powder was blasted by an electric arc and it did not ignite
 
I watched an excellent video on YouTube on modifications to the RCBS ChargeMaster about 6 months ago. I think it was by LoneWolf USMC or 8541 Tactical. He has a channel on YouTube that is pretty good.
The video went step by step thru several different modifications to the unit. You can change how close the motor spins on the faster setting, then medium, and the slow trickle to get to the correct weight. It was a great video sorry but I can't find it right now. I'll try and find it later and post a link.
 
Programming helps, straw helps, disturb pan for re-measure.
I found the best fix in an analog potentiometer adjustment for speed:
 

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Our hornady does the same thing with stick powders like h1000. If you slow down the speed it usually helps. I usually just set it one tenth under target load and then top it off with the old spoon tap trickling method when necessary.


Not neccessary, call Hornaday and they will give you supplemental instructions of both the trickle time in which the scale starts to trickle and also adjusting the trickle speed. Problem solved. Not sure why they didn't include it in the original instructions but im guessing its a $ thing.
 
One more helper that I find reduces over charges.
Not my idea (or my picture), but it works!
The fine inner teeth are what does the work letting one granule at a time fall.
 

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I was an early adopter of CM.
From the git-go I went through some pretty extensive testing/tuning with it, including programming, straws, a preload on the scale(to bring it to a mechanical mid weight for linearity), a center rod down the tube, and analog speed adjustment. I compared all charges using an Acculab scale(considerably higher resolution).
All of it helped & worked well really.

The potentiometer gives me the ability to fine tune speed, on the fly, for different powders. It's way easier than developing different program settings for each powder by trial & error. I reach up & adjust until the trickle speed jogs to just drop single kernels.
The adjustment is very subtle to overall speed in that it doesn't appear to affect the first 2 speeds at all. It is barely noticable with the third slowest speed, but directly influencing jogs/bumps.

I have an arrow around that adjustment hole now toward F/S in speed. 'F' is counter clockwise with that pot. Just something I dug out of a drawer in the garage(10-turn, 10ohm).
After so much effort in validating charges and playing with it, I got to where I could nail desired within 1-2 kernels consistently. Once there I got rid of the Acculab(accurate as hell, and terrible for reloading). There is a lot more to a good reloading scale than pure accuracy.. And there is a lot more to charging than measuring weight with a scale.
I could not imagine dispensing charges without a CM now, and would never again.
 
That totally makes sense Mike!
I had an early one as well...promptly sold it! :)

After that painful experience it took a lot of convincing to get me to come back, but here I am..no regrets I might add.
 
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