As with setting traps, snares and calling or hunting, I am seeing that there are some fine details, and steps that need to be taken in the correct order and are learned with time and exposure to others in all that we do, and I don't think it's being OCD but wanting to be proficient at what we do in life, the level to which we decide to be proficient is up to the individual and that might be what is considered OCD formally called being a perfectionist, or paying attention to detail as the devel is in the details. That is where we see the average, or the above average separated in the world of predator pursuit and the rest of our lives. Finding a balance between being too far in any direction is the hard part or the key to our world of the hunt for the predators that we choose to hunt.
Ramblings and Such From Hunting Coyote
- Thread starter DSheetz
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Messages
- 271
Dave, don't be afraid to tinker with the new sear spring. You can gently bend it by hand to tune the weight without hurting anything.
Just make sure you have a smooth arc shape with no sharp bends. As you have probably already discovered, it doesn't take much to make a significant change in the pull weight. Also, take a look at the very tips of the spring leaves, checking for burrs on their contact surfaces. Even the best quality ones will sometimes have sharp points which can drag and cause additional friction.
Another thing to look at is the edges of the trigger bow, both inside and outside as well as the shape of the bow. The sides should be parallel with no twist and have no burrs that could cause friction, changing your pull weight and affecting the smoothness of the pull.
While I don't hunt coyotes with my 1911's, they have dispatched more than one.
Ed
Just make sure you have a smooth arc shape with no sharp bends. As you have probably already discovered, it doesn't take much to make a significant change in the pull weight. Also, take a look at the very tips of the spring leaves, checking for burrs on their contact surfaces. Even the best quality ones will sometimes have sharp points which can drag and cause additional friction.
Another thing to look at is the edges of the trigger bow, both inside and outside as well as the shape of the bow. The sides should be parallel with no twist and have no burrs that could cause friction, changing your pull weight and affecting the smoothness of the pull.
While I don't hunt coyotes with my 1911's, they have dispatched more than one.
Ed
Thank You Ed; The spring tips did have some rough edges on them but laying them on my ceramic stone and a few strokes took care of the sharp points from where the metal had been sheared in the manufacturing process. The edge that rides on the sear was especially rough where they stamped out the notch. I noticed that on the hammers sides it has a couple of high spots that are hanging up, well dragging so I laid it down flat on my ceramic stone and polished them till they stopped being rough on working the hammer as well. I don't want to have a hammer follow through by making my spring too light or having it let the hammer fall when hit without the grip safety engaged. A little bit goes a long way as they say. In tinkering with the old spring I had it to the point of the hammer following the slide back, but I reset the bow and got that taken care of. I think it's a good learning experience and am enjoying it. shinny spots have a story to tell you if you take the time to look listen and think about what caused them!
The first thing that I will mention here at this time is the various stones that I use for smoothing parts are all in good shape with well-defined sharp edges and corners that don't have any chips in them. I consider them to be precision tools the same as I do my micrometers and dial indicators, and my files. If the corners get worn, chipped and rounded they then go to the general use tools area. So then working with my old sear spring first so that I didn't mess up my new one, till I had a few things figured out, I listened to what I was told by Ed and really looked it over in the areas that make contact and smoothed the sharp high places where they were stamped out of sheet spring steel. I smoothed any high spots on the triggers sides that were rubbing and making uneven contact. I didn't make any bends or other changes, put it back together and checked the pull weight, it was just under a consistent 4 pounds so just in that I had lowered it by a few ounces. I then bent the sear spring leaf just a small amount and tried it again, it was now at 3.5 pounds I took it apart and bent it a little more put it back together and it is now a consistent just the width of the indicator needle over three pounds. Thank you for your help and advice Ed. With the new sear, sear spring and disconnector installed the thumb safety didn't work smoothly now so I took it apart looked at the shiny spots, put it together and watched its engagement on the sear finding that it didn't want to ride up on the beefer sear. Okay I then read up and found that is a common problem with installing new sears and disconnectors and to fix the problem just a small amount of material removal was needed in the contact area or that working it would wear it in. About a 64th was all it took to let it move but engage smoothly. I did make some dummy rounds for it they are painted green for go with no powder and spent primers just for checking the function of some aspects of its working. It is the only firearm that I have at this time that I haven't shot a coyote with, but after a trip to the range and getting it sighted in and becoming familiar with how it feels I might take it out with me to do some calling just as a backup not my main firearm. This experience reminded me of in 1973 my first experience with a Lessly governor on a 6-stage steam turbine, that was letting the turbine run into overspeed. small parts were worn in several areas and as Ed said tolerance stacking making it not function correctly. The Chief was there to give me guidance in that instance. Not a one of us is an island and if we are willing to, we will readily listen to others and sort out what will help us along our way.
My Grandma told me many times you can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear. No but I will buy an inexpensive thing just to learn from it, before I mess up a good thing and the inexpensive things normally have more things that need some work on them.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Messages
- 271
Which is why it's a good idea for folks just beginning to tinker with the insides of firearms to buy some cheap parts and practice on them first.
Also, it's a good idea to have spare springs for your firearms, particularly recoil springs!
Dave, I'm glad I could be of help with this.
I don't know what kind of loads you are contemplating using, but it might be a good idea to get a set of Wolff "Extra Power" springs. I use the 18.5lb Wolff springs in my 1911's which will allow for a lot of full-power loads without battering my pistol.
If I were to start shooting mild loads, I can drop back to a 16lb recoil spring set.
The Wolff springs come with both the recoil spring and a new firing pin spring to match the intensity of the recoil spring.
You don't want a "slam fire" due to a weak firing pin spring coupled with a sensitive primer!
Ed
At this time I have a few hundred rounds of Blazer 115 grain hollow points that I will be using. I got a chance to buy 1000 rounds new for 218.00 so took advantage of it. I will be loading some 115 grain Hornady hollow points with some CCI primers and moderate loads of VIHT N - 350 OF 5.2 grains. Those are the 9mm rounds that I like in my S&W M&P full size carry. I don't believe that it's a bad thing to have some extra parts and springs on hand of a good quality just to make sure. I like to test drive my firearms at moderate speeds to see how they perform after making modifications and I'm a believer that just because I can doesn't mean that I should run hot loads I want to see accuracy and that often means moderate loads work the best for me. But there again that's me. Three rounds in the magazine for a starter than work my way up to a full one after a few firings to see how it settles in. I kind of like the way my body is now, and a full auto isn't my idea of fun.
Sneuses
Well-Known Member
Thank you
Sneuses
Well-Known Member
That sir is exactly why I built a custom rifle. Cost a pretty penny but should be a shooter. Broke my collarbone January 14th took delivery of the rifle January 18. Now it sits and waits for me.
Sneuses
Well-Known Member
Don't worry sir as I have done my time in the military as well
Sneuses
Well-Known Member
I started working up a load for a 7mm Remington Mag and got side tracked making up loads for other rifles and it is now time to go back to the 7 RM. what was your recipe for that round?
As always with any load, this is what works in MY rifle so take your time working up. This is in a bone stock Rem 700 Long Range model
65g H4831
215GM
168g Sierra Matchking
3.335 COAL which is a .065 jump
2995fps avg with RP brass
3030fps avg with Peterson brass
This load and gun have been a real joy for me. It's my first LR gun, the first time I ever worked up a load for one too. It's an absolute drill. Cold bore, clean bore, hot cold, doesn't matter, POI never changes. It goes exactly where I point it. May not be the right place all the time but it goes where I point it lol.
65g H4831
215GM
168g Sierra Matchking
3.335 COAL which is a .065 jump
2995fps avg with RP brass
3030fps avg with Peterson brass
This load and gun have been a real joy for me. It's my first LR gun, the first time I ever worked up a load for one too. It's an absolute drill. Cold bore, clean bore, hot cold, doesn't matter, POI never changes. It goes exactly where I point it. May not be the right place all the time but it goes where I point it lol.
Last edited:
