HNDLDR
Well-Known Member
Please excuse my ignorance. Where is the gas port that you are enlarging?
Quickload help 7mm-08
- Thread starter ClaynTexas
- Start date
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ClaynTexas
Member
It is under the gas block in front of the handguard. There are 2 set screws on the bottom of the gas block. If you loosen them, it will slide off the barrel. The gas block and gas tube will be removed and installed as one piece. The gas port is a hole on the top of the barrel. Should you decide to alter it, be careful of a few things.
First, don't over penetrate and mar the inside bore opposite the gas port.
Second, use very light pressure and a medium to high drill speed so you don't create large burrs at the port inside the bore. Clean it good and remove any burrs left behind.
Third, step up the hole in the smallest increment possible for it to function correctly. I'm betting that the port is about 0.084" now. Try a #44 (0.089") first. If it's still not quite right, step to #43 (0.0935")
Fourth, the gas block will pretty much self align since the barrel is dimpled for the setscrews. Check for good alignment anyway and make sure the bolt carrier group doesn't get tangled with the gas tube when reassembled. It should slide back and forth with no interference at the gas tube. When you are satisfied with it, use blue loctite on the setscrews to keep them from backing out. Don't use red loctite, it can be a bear to get loose again if it takes a good set.
Fifth (probably should be first), don't do it unless you're confident in yourself regarding the drilling. Any gunsmith can increase the port size if you aren't confident.
If you go too far, it will cycle hard and fast. If you go way too far, it will show on the case rims and heads. If you do go too far, an adjustable gas block will cure that so it's not the end of the world.
First, don't over penetrate and mar the inside bore opposite the gas port.
Second, use very light pressure and a medium to high drill speed so you don't create large burrs at the port inside the bore. Clean it good and remove any burrs left behind.
Third, step up the hole in the smallest increment possible for it to function correctly. I'm betting that the port is about 0.084" now. Try a #44 (0.089") first. If it's still not quite right, step to #43 (0.0935")
Fourth, the gas block will pretty much self align since the barrel is dimpled for the setscrews. Check for good alignment anyway and make sure the bolt carrier group doesn't get tangled with the gas tube when reassembled. It should slide back and forth with no interference at the gas tube. When you are satisfied with it, use blue loctite on the setscrews to keep them from backing out. Don't use red loctite, it can be a bear to get loose again if it takes a good set.
Fifth (probably should be first), don't do it unless you're confident in yourself regarding the drilling. Any gunsmith can increase the port size if you aren't confident.
If you go too far, it will cycle hard and fast. If you go way too far, it will show on the case rims and heads. If you do go too far, an adjustable gas block will cure that so it's not the end of the world.
ClaynTexas
Member
Just a quick follow up on this dilemma that I had with the Remington R-25, mostly because I hate leaving open ended posts with no resolution.
I did find powder/bullet combos that worked. Reloder 17 and Power Pro 2000 seem to be more forgiving than anything else I tried regarding pressure signs and brass condition. Neither ever pierced a primer and showed very little of the primer cratering so prevalent with the other medium burn rate powders. I had poor results from IMR 4064, 4895, 4166, Hodgdon H4895 and Varget, Reloder 15, and Win 748 with regard to pressure and brass condition. I did find that midrange loads of H4895 and Speer 130gr BTSPs were very accurate. 3/8 to 1/2" groups at 100 yds were the norm for that combo.
In all, I didn't have the same pleasurable experience with the R-25 that I have always had with AR-15s and ultimately sent it packing. It was just too picky and too abusive on the brass for my tastes. I replaced it with a Weatherby Vanguard in 7mm-08, which performs like a dream. I expected the Vanguard to give me average performance and push 139's along about 2850. Unexpectedly, it provides quite a lot of performance for the dollar. It will readily push 139's to 3000 to 3045 fps, using multiple powders, with perfect fired cases, normal bolt lift, and nice round edged primers with no cratering. I guess I got lucky with this rifle, but I am GLAD I moved on!
I did find powder/bullet combos that worked. Reloder 17 and Power Pro 2000 seem to be more forgiving than anything else I tried regarding pressure signs and brass condition. Neither ever pierced a primer and showed very little of the primer cratering so prevalent with the other medium burn rate powders. I had poor results from IMR 4064, 4895, 4166, Hodgdon H4895 and Varget, Reloder 15, and Win 748 with regard to pressure and brass condition. I did find that midrange loads of H4895 and Speer 130gr BTSPs were very accurate. 3/8 to 1/2" groups at 100 yds were the norm for that combo.
In all, I didn't have the same pleasurable experience with the R-25 that I have always had with AR-15s and ultimately sent it packing. It was just too picky and too abusive on the brass for my tastes. I replaced it with a Weatherby Vanguard in 7mm-08, which performs like a dream. I expected the Vanguard to give me average performance and push 139's along about 2850. Unexpectedly, it provides quite a lot of performance for the dollar. It will readily push 139's to 3000 to 3045 fps, using multiple powders, with perfect fired cases, normal bolt lift, and nice round edged primers with no cratering. I guess I got lucky with this rifle, but I am GLAD I moved on!
