Quick muzzle brake question

Iamnotagolem

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Jan 7, 2014
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27
Location
Northern Minnesota
I've heard that switching between a muzzle brake and no muzzle brake will change your point of impact. My question is, will it also change group size? Put another way, will I need to come up with 2 different loads depending on the configuration?

I'd be happy to find out firsthand, but it's for a rifle I don't own just yet. :)
 
You can probably still use the same load but they may or may not have the same poi, only testing will tell you that.
 
If you can match the weight you might have a shot in my opinion, or it might be very close without doing anything. Stiffer and shorter barrels seem less likely to be affected drastically. I run suppressors on several of my rifles and at 100 yards the poi is usually 2-4" different with vs. without. You will just have to test and see how your rig acts.
 
Pretty much the only way you will know is to shoot it all barrels have there own personality I have installed 100s of brakes most that I have shot the same load would work most have a point of impact change some a little some a lot but have had a few with very minor change in impact to but like said above shoot it see how much change there is if it's a lot try a thread protector of same weight and size to see if that helps good luck
 
I've heard that switching between a muzzle brake and no muzzle brake will change your point of impact. My question is, will it also change group size? Put another way, will I need to come up with 2 different loads depending on the configuration?

I'd be happy to find out firsthand, but it's for a rifle I don't own just yet. :)
I've had a slim barrel tighten it's groups significantly with just the addition of a brake. change in harmonics I'd assume. If you want to access the ultimate muzzle brake shoot-out, search the precisionrifleblog. Very useful information about which ones work and whicn ones don't!
 
Fitting a recoil brake will almost always change the point of impact on the rifle. If it doesn't, it is lucky coincidence. Rather than two loads, just adjust the scope to the new point of aim, write down what you have done and tape the note to the inside of the rear scope cap or any dust cap on the scope (if there is any).
 
I have a 300Win mag that I had a break put on. Iam very disappointed in the way the group opened up. It went from .5/.75 moa to almost 4.3 moa. It's a difficult thing to figure out as the gunsmith said the poi can change but a group should never be degraded as bad as mine was. It is back with him as I write this. I asked if the bore diameter of the brake was too small (.328) as most run at .338-340 for a .300, to which he answered .328 is plenty and going larger would make the brake less efficient. We will have to see when it gets back if it's any better. I have a .338 RUM that I had a break put on in the past and that retained the POI as well as the group. I hope he figures the.300 Win out as I don't have alot of extra cash around to replace the rifle.
 
You will see a difference, with a good brake (I have multiple Holland quick discharge and a couple of Vias brakes, both work very well. Your groups will improve because will have less felt recoil and you do not have that flinch on your big guns. I have brakes from my 243's an up to my 300 and 338 mags. Yes I have brakes on two of my main 243 coyote guns so I see my hits from close to far away. It will change your point of impact just like a can will. Most rifles have to have the barrels pulled to do a good job so you will have to re-sight in your rifle anyway. A buddy of mine recently bought Ruger Tactical in 300 win mag, it comes with a factory brake, the rifle just lays there, less recoil that a 308, you can shoot it all day long without the bumps and bruises. Happy Hunting
 
Todd, if your groups opened up to 4MOA I would seriously wonder a couple things 1) What class are the tolerances of your threads on your barrel and brake? 2) Is you bore concentric in your barrel? 3) Is the hole in the brake concentric to the middle of the brake? .328 is pretty tight. That's only 10 thousandths on each side. If your threads are sloppy and your bore or the hole in the brake aren't concentric then 10 thou can get eaten up pretty quick and your bullet could be contacting the brake. The difference in effectiveness of the brake between .328 and .340 is negligible. Even at .400 it wouldn't be much different.
 
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