Questions about reamers

If you have a reamer made make sure you have a loaded round neck dia. for the brass you want to use so you know what to spec. on the reamer if you want a no turn neck. All brass neck thickness are not the same. I personally like a min. of.003, .004 is better. Good luck in your build.
 
I have never had that experience with JGS, and I own at least 8 of their chambering reamers. Now, PT&G is another story! They can't seem to make even a standard, SAAMI spec reamer that cuts on more than one flute!

Tee hee hee...
Yeah, PT&Gs skull is way bigger than its brain, in so many ways. They hate engineers, or anyone else knowledgeable enough to catch their repetitive errors. Truth is they could use a lot of help. Even from the engineers they despise...
 
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I have over 70 JGS reamers and 90% of them are my specs. They continue to amaze me with their service, and I am a picky sob. I measure my chambers so I know if the reamers are right. Thats said, find a good smith who has experience with what you want to do. Reamer grinders are tool makers not gunsmiths and they mostly get their info from gunsmiths. Not always good info. If you want your own reamer make a dummy with the bullet seated where you want it. If its to be a no-turn, ad .004-.005 over a loaded neck diameter for your neck size. They will measure your freebore, but if the bullet is seated out where I like it you will end up with about a .275 freebore. Have them go with a 3 degree lead angle (per side) as the throat is going to burn out fast enough as it is. The 3 degree works great with the 195. Ask for saami minimum on case body specs, no smaller. And I'd probably ad .001 to the .2" number over saami minimum so dies will work better.
 
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Honestly guys if the goal to find a shop that has never screwed the pooche you will be firing cap and ball only as they do not exsist.

It was disappointing to see what happened with pt&g over the years as they use to do great work when they were smaller.

Show me a man that claims never to have lied or ever stolen anything and I will show you a lair and in fact a thief. In buisness and life integrity is the one thing a person has completed control over and for me carries the most weight both in buisness and life in general. Nothing in life is more destructive to community/relationship than a lie.

i use to use Dave at pacific almost exclusively for years, these days Manson gets my buisness. I still have some carbide reamers from Kiff that are going strong. Its ashame I can no longer have the confidence I once did in them. While I never had an issue too many people I trust and respect have. **** shame
 
Half my criticism with PT&G is Dave's better/greater than thou attitude.

If you crow like a rooster, you better be a rooster. No rooster there...
 
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Lots of good info passed along here. I have had very good luck with JGS as far as quality and service. I won't even buy a go gauge from PTG anymore!! On my designs, I have chosen to run a little more clearance on the throat. I usually run .0008 instead of the normal .0005". I have found es to be more consistent as pressures are easier to control. You usually get a little more velocity as well. I would also recommend that you get a reamer cut with oil grooves for better lubing during cutting. I like AT LEAST .004" clearance on your loaded round, and .005", or even .006" won't hurt. I would have it cut .004" for a no turn and then you can turn it a little if need be. Hope this helps.....Rich
 
I know this is an old post but hoping someone can look at the schematic of reamer from JGS on a 7-300 Weatherby I want to barrel for. I plan on shooting the 195 bergers also. Would this reamer allow me to seat to where the boat tail/bearing body is at the neck/shoulder junction where I want to start and have some wiggle room to extend a touch further if needed ?
 

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If my math is correct, and you seated the bearing surface boatail junction at the 2.3001 on the case you will need about .136 more to touch the lands.
 
So using that figure if I went with the 180VLD it would give me even a little more wiggle room to find the seating depth the barrel/bullet likes correct ? My intent with all this is to have something in the lines of an 7STW but not have to find hard to find brass, etc. Just neck down the 300 Weatherby to 7mm cal
 
I know this is an old post but hoping someone can look at the schematic of reamer from JGS on a 7-300 Weatherby I want to barrel for. I plan on shooting the 195 bergers also. Would this reamer allow me to seat to where the boat tail/bearing body is at the neck/shoulder junction where I want to start and have some wiggle room to extend a touch further if needed ?
If you consider the neck shoulder junction to be the 2.3001 point, the answer is no. A 195 would be jammed into the lands.
 
No, I will have JGS make it for me using that schematic. I have also considered making a dummy round with the boat tail bearing surface junction 20-40 thou up past the neck shoulder junction and having the reamer specify that the dummy round as is should just be touching the lands. That way I could do a seating depth test and if all works out I should get optimum seating depth and still not cut into case capacity.
 
So using that figure if I went with the 180VLD it would give me even a little more wiggle room to find the seating depth the barrel/bullet likes correct ? My intent with all this is to have something in the lines of an 7STW but not have to find hard to find brass, etc. Just neck down the 300 Weatherby to 7mm cal
A 180 gr VLD would be about .010" from the lands.
 
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