Questions About My First Bed Job

[CGWVU]

Ok guys, so you convinced me to bed my rifle. I have a few questions I was hoping you all could provide me some insight!
First,
I decided to use Earnie's accuriser washers. For those of you who are unfamiliar, the concept is that you place washers between your aluminum bedding block and action so the only place the action is touching the stock is at the washers. This gives room for the epoxy to fit without stressing the action when you tighten the guard screws. My question is, should I still remove parts of the stock with a Dremel?
Second,
When bedding, do I have to place the magazine box back or can I just tighten without it? Should I clay it to the action?
Third,
Should I use the factory screws and tighten it to 10 inch lbs or should I use bolts wrapped in tape with the heads cut off?
Lastly, is there any tips you have since it's my first time? I'd hate to ruin the rifle.
Thanks!

 

[Buck Fever]

You are going to want to rough the bedding block so the epoxy will stick.

If you use those washers, your action is going to sit higher in the stock, I wouldn't do it, just rough the bedding block a bit deeper to ensure you get at least 0.010" of epoxy so the layer isn't too weak.

You want to achieve a zero stress bedding so when you hold the action in the epoxy the action screws should be no more than snug, not even finger tight. To make this work, you need to ensure the action seats where you want it with finger tight action screws. If you have to tighten them to seat the receiver, your inlet needs to be relieved a bit.

What I did was tighten my action screws to pull my action down through the epoxy, then I loosened it and snugged it back up. That seats it fully but let's the bedding cure unstressed. I put mold release on my screw threads, this worked and I was able to remove my action screws easily.

You might consider doing a partial bed job. I have done a front half only job that worked very well. It is in a chassis so I expect to get consistent contact at the rear, I just wanted better contact for the recoil lug and I got it. An aluminum bedding block should be very similar.

Unless you want to do a glue in bedding that you can't remove, I would remove anything that you dont want bedding on and mask things like your magazine well. After your bedding cures and you remove your action, you can clean up any bedding that got in to places where you don't want it. Masking let's you peel off some of that unwanted epoxy and only leave an edge to clean up.

If your magazine box is loose in the well, you can glue or bed that later if it bothers you.

 

[jimbires]

I did a write up on a bedding job I did . photo bucket is holding the pictures hostage , but I think it will give you an idea of what I did . I put in an extended magazine box , bedded it , and throated it . it's all kind of in the two links below .

the one I couldn't pass up

I picked it up last night . looking it over , I'm very happy with it . I can't wait to get a scope on it, and shoot it . it's a trued short action remington , with a 8 twist shilen select match #4 magnum sporter bbl . bell and carlson stock with aluminum bedding block . a very crisp...

forum.nosler.com

throating , the one I couldn't pass up part 2

here is part 1 on this rifle . viewtopic.php?f=9&t=32610 I received the throating reamer from 4D Wednesday . I was disgusted when I got it , I thought I would get the "T" handle to turn the reamer since it's pictured with the set on 4D's website , but I didn't . so I thought about...

forum.nosler.com

 

[Mram10us]

Ok guys, so you convinced me to bed my rifle. I have a few questions I was hoping you all could provide me some insight!
First,
I decided to use Earnie's accuriser washers. For those of you who are unfamiliar, the concept is that you place washers between your aluminum bedding block and action so the only place the action is touching the stock is at the washers. This gives room for the epoxy to fit without stressing the action when you tighten the guard screws. My question is, should I still remove parts of the stock with a Dremel?
Second,
When bedding, do I have to place the magazine box back or can I just tighten without it? Should I clay it to the action?
Third,
Should I use the factory screws and tighten it to 10 inch lbs or should I use bolts wrapped in tape with the heads cut off?
Lastly, is there any tips you have since it's my first time? I'd hate to ruin the rifle.
Thanks!

If I were you, I'd watch a handful of bedding videos and then attempt it. I learn much better by watching. Maybe just me though. Good luck. When in doubt, use more release agent

 

[Dr. Vette]

Which rifle and which stock?

I have used the Accu-risers a couple of times, and they can work great. Ernie describes proper use quite a bit on his site, so follow his directions. They can help even-out an action as it sits in a stock, and provide full metal contact down to the pillar of a stock.

I would say they are easiest with a Rem 700 and a B&C or HS stock, if that's what you are using.