Question on finding pressure

It depends. Is the bullet touching or in the lands at the length you're shooting?
Do you have any idea how much free bore your chamber has or where the bullet is in relation to the lands? I'd be very careful if I were you. Things can change in an instant when you are running on the edge.
 
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I don't mean seating bullet closer to the lands. I mean seating bullet deeper in to the case. Wouldn't that give more freebore and releave pressure?
Or am I totally wrong?
No, the initial pressure spike will be higher if you decrease the volume of the case, for a given powder charge, by seating the bullet deeper into the brass case. By the time the bullet has traveled into the freebore the volume that the powder has to work against has increased thereby reducing pressure.
The highest pressure should be that required to get the bullet moving.
 
I don't mean seating bullet closer to the lands. I mean seating bullet deeper in to the case. Wouldn't that give more freebore and releave pressure?
Or am I totally wrong?
If you are relatively close to yhe lands, increasing jump will reduce pressure. My 300 RUM was about a 10 fps loss for every .015 increase in seating depth till I hit around .060-.075 depth increase (40-50fps).

My 243AI maxes out a touch over 3100fps with a similar bullet weight, but I have a node around 2980 that shoots fantastic and is far easier on brass. It's also more stable.
 
Max loads depend on many variables like your rifle chamber, brass, seating depth, free bore etc. I rarely find pressure at book max. Having a chronograph would help. I stop as soon as I see primers cratering or get an ejector mark. I've been keeping a folder on my phone with pictures of the case heads when working loads up.
Exactly. At the first sign of ejector marks is what I always go by. Plus, my chronograph is also a big help. Additionally, if you get a "sticky" bolt—you are way above where you should be and need to back off ASAP. Everyone on this thread has had great advice.
 
I have to agree that seating deaper into the case, further from the lands, will drop pressure, all else being equal. Weatherby did exactly that with his original cartridges, and I see the same results every time I walk away from the lands. It is also the reason stated to develop loads at the lands so you won't spike as you move away looking for accuracy.
 
How many rounds down the barrel? New barrel speeds can creep up and spike an over pressure. FYI. Been there done that (MRAD 300NM 230 Berger OTM speed jump; 2915/5SD to 3225 and needed a mallet to open the bolt. Trashed the chamber(expanded 1500 thousands..) and bolt face. Be careful.
 
Usually the velocity shelf will will be below the max pressure for a load. I load eight rounds of each different recipe before going to the range. (kind of like shooting 3 round groups or shooting 5 round groups, the difference is astounding) This gives me good data to track each particular load. One of the best things loading 8 does is it will tell me about deviance in each recipe, another thing is it allows me to shoot a hot barrel and it will cycle through a mag and into the next one. You will be surprised at the difference in the amount of things that more rounds of one recipe will let you know. I usually (used to are the key words here, age is creeping in) would take all day to shoot a ladder for a barrel. After shooting the eight I would leave rifle bolt open, barrel up, in the shade, mag out and by the time I walked down to retrieve my target and looked it over and returned, ran a brush and a patch the barrel would be cool. This let me start out with a cold shot and progress. Some particular recipes wouldn't be shot after a couple shots because I knew they were not what I was looking for. I would record the avg. velocity for each recipe as the particular shots would progress in powder volume, somewhere as I made the graph and at a point the velocity would fall or even out with more powder in the case. I usually would shoot another or maybe two recipes to make sure. Most of the time the last load before the flat or drop would be the best for powder efficiency and accuracy. Some times the accuracy would be a recipe or two under but not usually. Powder efficiency is very important because it gives a better burn and over this amount may give a few extra fps but at the cost of accuracy and shortened barrel life. After you have shot a few thousand rounds this will all make sense. I have shot out many barrels and I can tell you top velocity is not even close to top accuracy. If you ask most people who shoot .308 Win. they are shooting velocities less than 2650 usually around 2610 not nearly a max velocity. No use to shoot when you cannot hit a house when sitting inside of it. Happy shooting.
 
I watched my velocity jump way up one day as I started seating my bullets closer to the lands.My load started around .050 off.Once I got inside .020 off the lands,the velocity increase was equal to adding about 1.0-1.5grs of powder.With velocity increase,there is also a pressure increase.Watching for pressure signs on the brass head stamps can vary a lot too.I ran into this with softer Norma brass.I started working up some loads for one of my rifles using Winchester and Remington brass.I bought some Norma brass and the loads were way over pressure for the Norma brass.I compared the case volumes of the three brass.The Norma had the largest volume,followed by Remington and the Winchester with the smallest volume.The Remington and Winchester had absolutely no pressure signs and primer pockets were tight even after four firings on some of the cases.With the same loads and bullets,the Norma brass showed ejector marks and the primer pockets stretched to the point that they were too loose to be used a second time.I had to back off my loads 1.0-1.5grs depending on the powder and all the pressure signs went away on the Norma brass.Without proper testing equipment,it's really hard to know just where your at with the pressure.So now I'm running my loads that are giving me good case life with the Norma brass and not what the Winchester and Reminton brass can handle.The This explains a lot about what's going on internally and is a good read.
 
Guys I have been reluctant to ask you guys this but I need to hear your inputs.

I have been reloading for a good long bit but I considered myself starting over especially since I found this site. You don't know how much I appreciate all of you and Len for having a great place to learn.

Rifle. 6 creedmoor MPA BA PMR PRO
H4350
CCI 41
ALPHA BRASS.
Hornady 110 A-TIPS

STARTED out 41.0 gr and worked my way up to find pressure. Ladder test.
I always make 3 of each load. Increasing by .3 grains Don't ask I just do instead of 1. Just feel more comfortable.
41.7 is considered max by my Manuel
Well 41.7 has come and gone with zero pressure indicators to note. I again today loaded up 2 more increases to find that pressure but nope.

Now I feel like I am not sure to continue just to know where max is. Hmm.
Hesitant to say what load is as not sure Len would be happy with me if I posted it.

Oh, My last load was a freaking Hammer too
I think manual max is as high as you should go. You are already making a pretty big assumption when you extrapolate the manual pressures to your rifle, since your rifle differs from the test barrel. Pressure signs don't start appearing at SAAMI max pressures (<65000 psi for most high rpessure cartridges). Pressure signs, like flattened primers, sticky extraction, ejector marks, case head separations, may not appear below 80,000 psi or 85000 psi. Velocity would be a good indicator if you were using the test barrel, but you aren't. And while your modern bolt rifle may be strong enough to operate at 80,000 all day long, brass may not be.

Engineers have set the upper pressure limits to ensure safety taking into account factors of which we are likely unaware. It's not wise to exceed them. For most of us, with no access to pressure measurement, that means staying at or below manual max loads. I know reloaders have pushed pressure boundaries since the dawn of reloading, mostly without negative consequence. But it's not rational, just to gain a little velocity.

All bullets drop, some more than others, and you can't remove drop from external ballistics consideration. A little more or less drop is easily compensated by knowing how your rifle/load shoots. For hunters, a little less downrange energy is easily compensated by limiting the range at which you shoot. There's no need to break cartridge pressure limits.

My cousin had a nice classic wood Mark V 300 Weatherby from the 60s. His stock kept cracking at the tang; happened 3 times. Many years after he died and after my father died, I found in my Dad's stuff a can of 4350 with a note affixed to it in my cousins handwriting, addressed to Dad. It gave my cousin's favorite load, which I found to be 13% more powder than manual max. I think he "worked up" a load that showed no pressure signs under his conditions, but that did dramatically exceed cartridge pressure limits. I speculate whether that may have caused or contributed to his split stock issues. For what its worth, Weatherby on inspection refused to pay for his stock replacements. And Dad, due to his natural caution and common sense, never sought to use that load in his Weatherby. His rifle is mine now, and it's as solid as the day it was first put into his hands.

There may be many who disagree with all this. That's fine. It only reflects my thoughts on the matter, which aren't necessarily the last word.
 
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