Pulling bullets

[GRIP N PULL]

Well I'm going to need to figure something else out. I just went out to pull the bullets but I quickly figured out my kinetic bullet puller does not fit the large 338 case. Does anyone have any suggestions that will get me going by the end of the week. Thanks for all your help guys.

Hello, I could not help but notice your issue. My name is Brandon, I own GRIP-N-PULL, LLC. and am a sponsor here. I want to show you something. Go to:

Grip-n-Pull The World's Best Bullet Puller

I think we have just what you are looking for. Faster an more efficient than the kinetic or collet pullers. Fast shipping too! Any questions please call me at 208-684-4850. Thanks

Brandon

 

[Mike 338]

I ordered the Grip N Pull a couple days ago. I'm tired of broken O-rings on the collets, large cases not fitting in the puller and polymer ballistic tips flaring with the kinetic type puller. A one piece tool with no parts to find or fail. I haven't used it yet but it looks pretty fool proof.

 

[Clever]

Neck size just to make sure you have proper neck tension..

 

[Shootin4fun]

One thing I've found with the inertia puller (I have a RCBS) kind of shoots down the whole idea of salvaging all components is that the number of whacks it takes to remove the bullet also dislodges PRIMER POWDER from the primer, which then makes its way through the flashole to the powder. So the primer is no longer "virgin" and the powder is contaminated with primer powder.

I noticed this because I know that the active agent in Federal primers is yellow, and after removing a bullet I tapped the shell on a white paper towel and noticed yellow. Then I looked in the scale tray where I had dumped some charges and saw yellow powder coating some of the powder granules. (Lovely, you've now raised the burn rate of your powder.) Then I emptied the previously empty jar that I dumped several charges into, and noticed yellow dust in the bottom...enough to dump out, not just a coating. I have pictures of this.

So...if you're going to use a kinetic puller, you probably want to toss the primer and powder, or at least the primer and make sure the powder looks normal then neck size if you really want to start with a known entity of a new round.

Oh, and before I noticed the above, I removed the expander ball because I figured it wasn't needed and I could save the primer when I resized the case. Well, I didn't THINK it needed to be there. Now I have a case stuck in the resizing die which I'll probably have to replace. All to save a few primers.

 

[rfpalm]

I had a problem which required the removal and reloading of 100 rounds of 6.5x55. I sold one of 2 guns, and found that I had sold the one all my loads were for. The other gun required 2 grains less powder, and 1/16 shorter coal. All loads were secure after unloading with a collet puller, and reloading with the same powder decreased by 2 gr. Precision was very good with little deviation from loaded from scratch. I had no loose bullets.

 

[Gene]

I tear reloads apart frequently with my old Forester bullet puller. I do not resize the necks for hunting loads, as long as the new bullet has enough tension not to twist after seating.

For competition loads, I retain the powder and primer after the bullet is pulled, and run them thru a neck sizer. Re seat the bullet and neck tension should be fine. Bullet seating is like running an expander thru the neck, and they need to be squeezed down again to get original tension.

 

[jrock]

I tear reloads apart frequently with my old Forester bullet puller. I do not resize the necks for hunting loads, as long as the new bullet has enough tension not to twist after seating.

For competition loads, I retain the powder and primer after the bullet is pulled, and run them thru a neck sizer. Re seat the bullet and neck tension should be fine. Bullet seating is like running an expander thru the neck, and they need to be squeezed down again to get original tension.

1+ here