mo
Well-Known Member
BB gave good advice, but don't throw away the Dillon just yet! I would suggest learning on a single stage. The Dillon can and will produce just a accurate ammo as a single stage will, it just takes some know how.
-
If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here
Problem Reloading, Brass gets stuck near belt
- Thread starter jazzato
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Thanks for all the help guys. With regards to the stuck case, I compounded the issue and hack sawed the end of the bullet off thinking I would be able to manipulate it better and get it out, that being said I couldn't and called redding, they are going to get it unstuck for $6 return shipping and polish it up, I'm sending them 5 shot cases to try in the die to make sure the die isn't the problem.
I order the Imperial wax and will try that, also considering buying a single stage press like the rockchucker or something just to do the belted magnums, even though the Dillon tech guy laughed at me and said he's been loading magnums on his for years and the HSM ammo I have was loaded on a dillon as well (probably a commercial grade one though, not the 550b IMO)
Still smiling
Jameygun)
I order the Imperial wax and will try that, also considering buying a single stage press like the rockchucker or something just to do the belted magnums, even though the Dillon tech guy laughed at me and said he's been loading magnums on his for years and the HSM ammo I have was loaded on a dillon as well (probably a commercial grade one though, not the 550b IMO)
Still smiling
Jameygun)
GCF
Member
Ditto. Don't scrap the 550 - it's a good press, & fully capable. For the record, you can get enough leverage out of it, to rip the rim clean off the case - if that's your goal. Don't ask me how I know...
Couple of suggestions. Make sure your cases are nice & CLEAN, before sizing. That would include the case neck - inside & out.
I think the Imperial will make a big difference. Did for me. It's amazing stuff, & you don't need much of it either. I anneal case necks, brush the heck out of 'em, & use a tad of Imperial on the ID. Yeah I know, gotta clean it out after, but they size like a hot knife through butter now.
Except for auto-pistol ammo, I hand measure charges for everything I load on my 550. You can get older model powder dies from Dillon, that are made for hand measuring - & will work well w/ the 550. The nice thing about it, is that you can still do it while loading progressively. It's fast, & eliminates mechanical powder charge error.
I sometimes think about adding a Forster Co-Ax press to the bench, as I have a strong preference for their bench rest dies - & use 'em on my 550 when possible. I think they offer a top notch product. As long as I can squeeze it in next to the Dillon, I might - one of these days. Again though, only as an addition - not a replacement...
Gary
I'm sending my die back to redding to get the case unstuck and then I should be ready to try everything, I'm likely going to get the Larry Willis collet die to resize my cases back to .510 or close to it, then the FL redding die won't have to work so hard to get it back to around .507. Right now I think it is a bit much to get the cases back to .507 from like .514 (I think my chamber is looser than most from what I'm reading).
Maybe it was all a lube problem who knows. Hopefully it runs smooth when I get the die back and try the imperial wax. Can't wait to see how my 208 gr AMax bullets fly at 1000 yards, was using HMS 185 gr bergers, but that is a big expensive just to target shoot. 12 boxes was enough for me lol.
I've read that around 76 gr of the H1000 using the 208 A-Max is a good starting point. I know that experimenting with measuring .010 off the lands makes these bullets about 1/4 inch longer than the factory HMS ammo, and that was pretty accurate, so I'm hoping it will really hammer once I get a good load with my dies working properly. I have lots of once shot brass to use!
I'll let you know how I make out, probably be over a week by the time I get it all back and working again. I think I have to get a different neck bushing too, measured it mid neck instead of right by the mouth, so I'm like .002 or 3 too large.
TTYL
Jgun)
Maybe it was all a lube problem who knows. Hopefully it runs smooth when I get the die back and try the imperial wax. Can't wait to see how my 208 gr AMax bullets fly at 1000 yards, was using HMS 185 gr bergers, but that is a big expensive just to target shoot. 12 boxes was enough for me lol.
I've read that around 76 gr of the H1000 using the 208 A-Max is a good starting point. I know that experimenting with measuring .010 off the lands makes these bullets about 1/4 inch longer than the factory HMS ammo, and that was pretty accurate, so I'm hoping it will really hammer once I get a good load with my dies working properly. I have lots of once shot brass to use!
I'll let you know how I make out, probably be over a week by the time I get it all back and working again. I think I have to get a different neck bushing too, measured it mid neck instead of right by the mouth, so I'm like .002 or 3 too large.
TTYL
Jgun)
Kevin Thomas
Well-Known Member
Jazzato,
If I read you right, you'd cut the case head off with a hacksaw? That may make a difference to Redding when they go to extract that case, since the head needs to be present for the standard stuck case removers to work. All the major makers sell these, and most are pretty similar. They involved drilling out the flash hole and then tapping it. A cup goes over the base of the die and an allen head cap screw passes through that, and threads into the tapped case. from there, the case can be easily backed out with an allen wrench. You need one of these, even if you only use it once or twice. Think of it as the eraser on the end of your reloading pencil.
Don't sell the 550, either, they're great presses. However, they're definately not the first choice for this sort of reloading. Someone else mentioned using it as a single stage press until you get a handle on things, and that's good advice. If at all feasible, I'd recommend getting another press, single stage, probably an O-frame or something like the Forster Co-Ax for laoding the magnums. It'll turn out better ammo and make your life much simpler in the process. As I said, I truly love Dillon presses, and they have some of the best customer service in the industry. And yes, you absolutely can reload belted magnums in progressive presses . . . but they're really not the best choice for this sort of thing. For what it's worth, I load rifle ammo, even some short range match ammo, on both Dillon 550s and a 1050. However, they cases I start with have already been sized (on a single stage press), cleaned thoroughly, trimmed and inspected before they ever hit the Dillons. In essence, all I'm doing on the Dillons is primer pocket swaging (in 5.56mms, anyway) repriming, powder charging and bullet seating. Not exactly a "true" progressive operation as Dillon might envision it, but it's a process that works well for my needs.
The Dillon powder measures work great for many powders, not so hot for extruded tubular powders. I normally use a Redding BR measure on my Dillons when loading rifle ammo, especially with stick powders. They sell an adapter to do this, though it is a manual operation to throw the lever (which I like anyway). As has already been mentioned here, all this is irrelevant if we're talking long range match ammo; you'll want to weigh that to get the best accuracy.
There's a lot more here, but you'll bump into all that in due time.
Hope this helps,
Kevin Thomas
Lapua USA
If I read you right, you'd cut the case head off with a hacksaw? That may make a difference to Redding when they go to extract that case, since the head needs to be present for the standard stuck case removers to work. All the major makers sell these, and most are pretty similar. They involved drilling out the flash hole and then tapping it. A cup goes over the base of the die and an allen head cap screw passes through that, and threads into the tapped case. from there, the case can be easily backed out with an allen wrench. You need one of these, even if you only use it once or twice. Think of it as the eraser on the end of your reloading pencil.
Don't sell the 550, either, they're great presses. However, they're definately not the first choice for this sort of reloading. Someone else mentioned using it as a single stage press until you get a handle on things, and that's good advice. If at all feasible, I'd recommend getting another press, single stage, probably an O-frame or something like the Forster Co-Ax for laoding the magnums. It'll turn out better ammo and make your life much simpler in the process. As I said, I truly love Dillon presses, and they have some of the best customer service in the industry. And yes, you absolutely can reload belted magnums in progressive presses . . . but they're really not the best choice for this sort of thing. For what it's worth, I load rifle ammo, even some short range match ammo, on both Dillon 550s and a 1050. However, they cases I start with have already been sized (on a single stage press), cleaned thoroughly, trimmed and inspected before they ever hit the Dillons. In essence, all I'm doing on the Dillons is primer pocket swaging (in 5.56mms, anyway) repriming, powder charging and bullet seating. Not exactly a "true" progressive operation as Dillon might envision it, but it's a process that works well for my needs.
The Dillon powder measures work great for many powders, not so hot for extruded tubular powders. I normally use a Redding BR measure on my Dillons when loading rifle ammo, especially with stick powders. They sell an adapter to do this, though it is a manual operation to throw the lever (which I like anyway). As has already been mentioned here, all this is irrelevant if we're talking long range match ammo; you'll want to weigh that to get the best accuracy.
There's a lot more here, but you'll bump into all that in due time.
Hope this helps,
Kevin Thomas
Lapua USA
Last edited:
375fan
Well-Known Member
You have been given some great advice from some of the posters on here. BUY!! a Rockchucker single stage and learn to load ammo with it. Progressive presses can be a little fickle to set up, let alone to learn with. After 35 years of reloading I have found there is always something new to learn.
MT4XFore
Well-Known Member
Jazz, I also have an Innovative Technologies Collett Die. It certainly isn't meant for a progressive press. It is best used AFTER normal full length resizing when the area just ahead of the belt doesn't meet the standard. And that is about ALL the Innovative die sizes, just ahead of the belt. It doesn't do the rest of the case, deprime, or size the neck. It works well for what it was designed for, nothing more. I along with a number of other folks have given you some sage advice, but you seem to choose to ignore it. Your advice will soon run out.
Good luck, and God Bless
Jim
Good luck, and God Bless
Jim
Jazz,
The Larry Willis collet die works as advertised. Make sure you lube the case well with Imperial wax when you use it.
Get the Forster Co-ax press. You will be happier in the long run.
If you just have to load with the Dillon , do what Kevin Thomas said and prep the cases first, but the powder to usein the Dillon with the 208 amax is Ramshot Magnum.
That will meter very well in the Dillon.
That's my go to powder with the 208 amax in 300win, but I load on a single stage press and measure every charge.
Ramshot Magnum is much underrated.
I have had great results in my 300win with the 208 amax and Ramshot Magnum.
.010-.015 off the lands seems to work well with the amax
The Larry Willis collet die works as advertised. Make sure you lube the case well with Imperial wax when you use it.
Get the Forster Co-ax press. You will be happier in the long run.
If you just have to load with the Dillon , do what Kevin Thomas said and prep the cases first, but the powder to usein the Dillon with the 208 amax is Ramshot Magnum.
That will meter very well in the Dillon.
That's my go to powder with the 208 amax in 300win, but I load on a single stage press and measure every charge.
Ramshot Magnum is much underrated.
I have had great results in my 300win with the 208 amax and Ramshot Magnum.
.010-.015 off the lands seems to work well with the amax
RockZ-Thanks for the heads up on that powder. I'll probably hand measure my loads using the H1000 until it is gone. Time/speed while reloading is not an issue, I'm likely going to be using the dillon press almost like a single stage press, I might just do each step seperately until I learn what I'm doing and have a load that is working good with my gun. Likely I'll reload fast when I'm doing .357 loads or .223 loads in the future.
I can get within .5 grains with the dillon and that H1000 powder then just tweak it from there on the scale, if I get serious about getting it to the .1 gr accuracy I'll almost have to do that for now.
MT4XFore-Not sure why you don't think I'm taking people's advice? Just because I haven't rushed off and purchased another press doesn't mean I'm not listening to others info.
J gun)
I can get within .5 grains with the dillon and that H1000 powder then just tweak it from there on the scale, if I get serious about getting it to the .1 gr accuracy I'll almost have to do that for now.
MT4XFore-Not sure why you don't think I'm taking people's advice? Just because I haven't rushed off and purchased another press doesn't mean I'm not listening to others info.
J gun)
jazz, do what I have done while reloading 308s, I remove the powder measure from the toolhead and the powder die. Then just stop on the up stroke and the case will be sticking out of the tool head, set your funnel on it and pour in your weighed powder charge. That way you get correctly wieghed charge in your case and you don't have to remove it from the turret plate to charge or check it. Jeff
GCF
Member
Fast / accurate (0.1 grain +/-) hand measured charging - during progressive operation of a 550B, does not have to be difficult.
I zero my scale & set for desired charge weight, scoop powder w/ the appropriate Lee measure, finish off w/ a trickler, & dump straight into the plastic funnel as shown.
This is my setup:
Lee Improved Powder Measure Kit - MidwayUSA
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Never tried this one, but for those who insist on a press mounted adjustable powder measure, here is another option:
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
I zero my scale & set for desired charge weight, scoop powder w/ the appropriate Lee measure, finish off w/ a trickler, & dump straight into the plastic funnel as shown.
This is my setup:
Lee Improved Powder Measure Kit - MidwayUSA
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Never tried this one, but for those who insist on a press mounted adjustable powder measure, here is another option:
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
Last edited:
I was confused about trying to FL size as well, I figured if it is .514 after shooting, why put it back to .507 if it will just expand back up again because of my chamber (wouldn't that make the brass work harder and eventually make it weaker)?
I might just neck size it since I'm going to be shooting it out of my gun only. Just not sure how to setup the die to just neck size (doesn't it have to go all the way down in order for the neck to be sized)? If I stop a half inch from the bottom of the case (ie: where the bulge is, will it still work)?
Might call redding on this once I get it back.
Thanks
Jameygun)
I might just neck size it since I'm going to be shooting it out of my gun only. Just not sure how to setup the die to just neck size (doesn't it have to go all the way down in order for the neck to be sized)? If I stop a half inch from the bottom of the case (ie: where the bulge is, will it still work)?
Might call redding on this once I get it back.
Thanks
Jameygun)
