9ptbuk
Well-Known Member
I'm leaning towards the RCBS Universal tool, My main objective is trying to get more of a feel when the primer bottoms out .
Priming Tool
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I'm leaning towards the RCBS Universal tool, My main objective is trying to get more of a feel when the primer bottoms out .
I like mine and I never have any issues with it thus far.
Good luck and happy safe reloading ... cheers!
Why?
What's the difference between seating it using one vs another? Oh, because the primer was already partially seated? So what?
Primers need to be struck hard with a sharp object to fire. Primers are designed for rapid seating in automated equipment. They do not go off by virtue of magic or voodoo or demonic influence... or hand seating tools.
Because Murphy does NOT discriminate; when it comes to safety I don't mess around. If you chose to, that's your prerogative and you must face the consequences associated with it. If you want to take the unnecessary risk by all means go for it.
BTW, those are loaded ammo. If you want to fix a primer that is partially seated, fix it before loading the powder and bullet. I always check how the primers are seated during the priming process.
http://www.rcbs.com/RCBS/media/RCBSMedia/PDFs/Instructions/English/HandPrimingToolInstructions.pdf
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
It seems whenever there is a priming tool comparison, discussions go to 'feel'.
This default is absolutely wrong. You can seat primers to all kinds of 'feel' and they will go off, every one, but not the same.
Does it matter? Most will never know it, but I've seen first hand that all aspects of primer striking/firing affect results. This, including bolt timing, trigger sear release, pin fall, pin mass, spring force, primer cup, primer preload, flash holes, rub/interference points, etc.
There is a priming tool that bypasses feel,, that actually measures to seat every individual primer to every individual pocket to measured/desired crush (preload), and with it you can pretty much instantly see that 'feel' is ridiculous to reality.
That tool is the INDICATED K&M(not standard K&M).
There is nothing else like it, not even close.
I could describe it's use to zero out variances before measured seating, but it's complicated by the genius in it's design. It's one of those things that you just have to see operate to understand.
This default is absolutely wrong. You can seat primers to all kinds of 'feel' and they will go off, every one, but not the same.
Does it matter? Most will never know it, but I've seen first hand that all aspects of primer striking/firing affect results. This, including bolt timing, trigger sear release, pin fall, pin mass, spring force, primer cup, primer preload, flash holes, rub/interference points, etc.
There is a priming tool that bypasses feel,, that actually measures to seat every individual primer to every individual pocket to measured/desired crush (preload), and with it you can pretty much instantly see that 'feel' is ridiculous to reality.
That tool is the INDICATED K&M(not standard K&M).
There is nothing else like it, not even close.
I could describe it's use to zero out variances before measured seating, but it's complicated by the genius in it's design. It's one of those things that you just have to see operate to understand.
FearNoWind
Well-Known Member
Well said >>>>>>
Because Murphy does NOT discriminate; when it comes to safety I don't mess around. If you chose to, that's your prerogative and you must face the consequences associated with it. If you want to take the unnecessary risk by all means go for it.
BTW, those are loaded ammo. If you want to fix a primer that is partially seated, fix it before loading the powder and bullet. I always check how the primers are seated during the priming process.
http://www.rcbs.com/RCBS/media/RCBSMedia/PDFs/Instructions/English/HandPrimingToolInstructions.pdf
Mechanical nonsense.
If you partially seat a primer on purpose, then remove the case from the shell holder, then reinsert the case and finish seating, there is no greater risk of detonation than if you fully seated the primer in one fluid motion.
You're still missing the point or perhaps just don't care, but there's a safer part of the reloading process to fix it; at the priming process, not after it is already a loaded ammo. 'WE" all owe it to a new reloader to pass on safety practices as much as "WE" possibly can.
There's mechanical and there's static discharge (among other things) to content with. When I worked on the flightline, we had many incidents were 20MM ammo went off accidentally with static discharges.
Again, if you're willing to take the risk unnecessarily and refuse to fix it at a safer stage of the process ... GO FOR IT! gun)
Checkout the destructive property of a single primer ...
[ame]https://youtu.be/TUBUdvpi_Ic?t=1[/ame]
Call me safety freak but I'd rather be safe than sorry. I'm also the same guy that wear eye and ear protection and use leather gloves when using power tools and steel toed shoes when mowing.
I hope that Murphy stays away from you. Happy safe reloading. Cheers!
Murphy's law is called voodoo on some islands.
If static discharge is to set off a primer, it will do so on case A or case A on the second seating attempt, on on a subsequent case. If you're worried about that you should not be reloading.
And I know what a primer can do. I've been doing this daily since 1994.
If static discharge is to set off a primer, it will do so on case A or case A on the second seating attempt, on on a subsequent case. If you're worried about that you should not be reloading.
And I know what a primer can do. I've been doing this daily since 1994.
It's irrelevant how long you've been reloading, that does not make you an expert esp. when it comes to safety or voodoo.
Who said I am afraid, you can continue what you do and I'll continue being safe ... that's the bottom-line.
To the OP, my sincere apology if I am part of the thread hijacking effort but I am compelled to address safety, what you do with it is entirely up to you. Cheers!
dok7mm
Well-Known Member
That is the tool I was referencing. It's pretty slow if you try to measure variance in each primer. I check a few, to get a ballpark mean, and then set the markers +/- .005 , then fine tune as I go. The neat thing is, with primer and case in place, when you take up the slack in lever, the indicator dial (minus one revolution) will show within .001-.002 of proper depth to seat primer. It's the most consistent method I've found, but works best when primer pocket depth has been uniformed. Sorry, I think we've gone past the OP's question.
I pop them every now and then when I am vacuuming. It always makes me jump. Been reloading for over 40 years and have never popped a primer while reloading. I have had many go in sideways and backwards and all I ever do is just run them back through the decapping die.
My thoughts are that it takes a quick blow to set them off. Not just the push from a decapping die.
lightbulbIt's OK to jumpy from time to time; to be complacent is a different story.
lightbulblightbulbIt's OK to jumpy from time to time; to be complacent is a different story.
now I would never put a live round in my priming tool and start mashing on it. that makes me cringe to watch.
