Pressure?

[coyotezapper]

The above issues are simple to solve. Velocity of load will probably answer this question. Over book charges without velocity is not very wise. Just lot to lot differences can cause pressure issues. There are other things that could be happening, but I would start here. While waiting on chrono data I would recommend reading the Primal Rights blog linked above. And use a good chrono. If you don't know what a good chrono is buy Bryan Litz's book and go by his test results. Labradar, Oehler or Magnetospeed.

There is a common misconception on this sight that reloading data is usually way under pressured. This is where most don't understand lot to lot differences. Hodgdon data I like because it will show primer, bbl length and PRESSURE. If you equal their velocity then you will be at their pressure no matter what the charge. How do I know this?? Oehler 43PBL use for the last 25 years. My Oehler used with Quickload is always very close to Hodgdon pressure and velocity.

 

[JustMe2]

Kid, it appears to me you pulled a fast one and confused the 1st 34 responses. You appear to have originally posted just one picture of 3 good looking primers at 12:52, then 30 minutes later you edited your original post at 1:22 by adding 2 more pictures of 6 more primers that are definitely showing pressure signs.

Kid, You should have started another post to add the 6 pictures of the overcharged primers. You made this post pretty confusing to read the responses.

 

[Southtexas36]

I've read quite a few examples of dual ejectors causing this problem.

 

[chav0_12]

They are. Comments above are fake news. Why would someone keep buying them if they kept having said issues? BS

I'll say, based on the experience I've had with them, 2 different buddies' rifles that I've loaded or helped load for, I won't spend my money on one. In my opinion there are better rifles for the money out there.

 

[The_Whitetail_kid]

Kid, it appears to me you pulled a fast one and confused the 1st 14 responses. You appear to have originally posted just one picture of 3 good looking primers at 12:52, then 30 minutes later you edited your original post at 1:22 by adding 2 more pictures of 6 more primers that are definitely showing pressure signs.

Kid, You should have started another post to add the 6 pictures of the overcharged primers. You made this post pretty confusing to read the responses.

No, I added what cartridge I was using. Good assumption though

 

[Pudgy]

Hello everyone. Need some help here. I have shot 3 loads today at the range, and all three caused some sticky boat lift. I don't feel like the power charge is that high, and I'm not good at telling pressure signs by looking at the bottom of the case. In my 7RM. Thanks

They are over pressure, at least that's what I see. I have attached 1 of your pictures. There is ejector marks (roundish - horseshoe ish) on the M (left side photo) and on ag (right side of photo)

 

[MagnumManiac]

Cratered primers are a mechanical issue within the bolt face. They are e very poor indicator of pressure.
If a rifle produces cratered primers because of a bevel in the bolt face, it will crater primers always.
If a rifle doesn't normally crater primers but then does, it's a sure sign of high pressure.
Also, stiff ejector springs often show up on brass with normal loads. When you have these issues, the only safe way to determine pressure is through a chronograph, but the other way is looking at primer edges, if they are still radiused, then pressure is not excessive. You can load until the primer fills the pocket but does not show a 'top hat' appearance when removed.
Oh, and just FYI Norma brass is soft.

Cheers.

 

[The_Whitetail_kid]

Thanks everyone. I think we've determined I need to back off on the accubonds, but the bergers are pretty much good and I'm gonna play with seating depth a touch and think I'll be good there. And, for those experienced Christensen users, sounds like the ejector marks are a fairly common thing to deal with.

 

[stinkyduck13]

What about the hard bold close?

 

[The_Whitetail_kid]

What about the hard bold close?

I think that is because I need to use a FL die vs just a neck sizer. I am still fairly new to the reloading game.

 

[74honker]

Try full length sizing and when setting up your die, run a case through and check in your chamber. If still a bit stiff, tighten the die down just a smidge and try again. When it closes correctly your there. There's several good videos out there on the best way to do this.

 

[The_Whitetail_kid]

Try full length sizing and when setting up your die, run a case through and check in your chamber. If still a bit stiff, tighten the die down just a smidge and try again. When it closes correctly your there. There's several good videos out there on the best way to do this.

That's my plan. As stated earlier, I'm in the process of switching over die brands. I've been using the hornady custom dies in my 6.5 PRC and grandpas 22-250 and have seen way better consistency as far as the brass going into the chamber, neck tension, etc. compared to prior RCBS. Thanks.

 

[Bang4theBuck]

Do you have any brass that you can measure to represent the length (headspace dimension) of the brass prior to firing as compared to the fired brass that yielded a sticky bolt?

I have seen it numerous times where if the brass is sized to more than .005" shorter thN the chamber that when it expands with ignition, the momentum of the rapid expansion sort wedges the brass in the chamber causing a sticky bolt.

 

[FEENIX]

Thanks everyone. I think we've determined I need to back off on the accubonds,

Excellent!

And, for those experienced Christensen users, sounds like the ejector marks are a fairly common thing to deal with.

I am curious as to what CA told them and what course of action they are taking to resolve the issue,