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Has the brass only been fired in this rifle?
Is what looks like erector swipes new or were they there from previous firings?
Pressure?
- Thread starter The_Whitetail_kid
- Start date
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Is what looks like erector swipes new or were they there from previous firings?
DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
Like others have said. The primers look pretty. Sometimes firing pins can have slight burrs and produce false read of cratering. I typically see primers smear to the edges with high pressure. I've also not experienced ejector swipes due to pressure without also having the primers smeared. That tells me a plunger type ejector can have burrs also giving false read. The pics are a bit shadowy, if you could get some brighter light on them it would help.
The_Whitetail_kid
Well-Known Member
is it much to be concerned about? Is it due to over pressure?
The_Whitetail_kid
Well-Known Member
Yes this rifle only.
DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
I say no. You are fine. Something else is causing some stickiness.
I agree here. Did you wipe all the lube off the brass good after you sized? I'm sure this sounds remedial but residue on the brass could cause it to "stick" to the chamber when fired. Just trying to go through the checklist without going too deep yet.
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
I would look at backing off 2 grains and work up .2 at a time until you see ejector swipes. Then stop. Your node may be wide and allow you to get off of those high pressure areas.
I don't get much life out of my Nosler brass and when I start seeing ejectors, the pockets start creeping larger. Norma, I don't know but I've heard they are similar or even the same soft brass.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
How would you describe the bolt turn on rechambering & extracting of the fired(unsized) offending cases?
I didn't look these all up, but your 69gr of H1000 & 160gr Accubond load is 3 grains over maximum according to Hodgdon load data for that weight copper/lead bullet (see attached).
willfrye027
Well-Known Member
My buddy has a ridge line in 7mm mag. I am an experienced reloader and for me it is difficult to discern pressure signs in that rifle. His bolt lift is stiff at baseline and the ejector spring is really strong. Also has some burrs in the chamber and bolt face is not perfect.
For his rifle I use book loads and look for expected velocity for a given projectile. I don't try to hotrod it whatsoever.
Another thing you can try is reload the same 3 cases over and over with the load you've decided on. Make sure primer pockets are not getting loose and you can get at least 5-6 reloads off a piece of brass.
His is also very accurate so I don't worry too much about chasing speed and go for a nice, reliable load
For his rifle I use book loads and look for expected velocity for a given projectile. I don't try to hotrod it whatsoever.
Another thing you can try is reload the same 3 cases over and over with the load you've decided on. Make sure primer pockets are not getting loose and you can get at least 5-6 reloads off a piece of brass.
His is also very accurate so I don't worry too much about chasing speed and go for a nice, reliable load
The_Whitetail_kid
Well-Known Member
I've always noticed the stiff baseline bolt lift and ejection spring being strong. Between me and my dad, we have 4 Christensen ridgeline and 3/4 are this way. That's why I never can tell, pressure, or the bolt being how it is.
willfrye027
Well-Known Member
Yeah I would just stick to book loads and choose bullets that will suit your needs. Just made a 162eld m load for my buddy at a modest 2900fps. It could probably be pushed faster but it has enough terminal velocity at extreme hunting distances and shoots very well.
Do you have a chronograph? Two of your H1000/160 gr bullet reloads are over book max for powder charge; one by three grains, the other by four grains.
Without a velocity reading, you are relying solely on "pressure signs" to determine if your load is okay & your brass is showing ejector marks & heavy bolt lift. Those ARE pressure signs!
Without a chronograph, I'd suggest you stay at or below book max (66 grains of H1000 with 160 grain cup/core-type bullets.) You can get a chronograph for $155. Much cheaper than a blown up gun & E.R. visit:
www.midwayusa.com
You know something is up & not right or you wouldn't have posted. That was smart. Now you need to listen to people that have been there, done that, & got the T-shirt. That'd be really smart. Stay safe & it'll still be fun! Good luck.
Without a velocity reading, you are relying solely on "pressure signs" to determine if your load is okay & your brass is showing ejector marks & heavy bolt lift. Those ARE pressure signs!
Without a chronograph, I'd suggest you stay at or below book max (66 grains of H1000 with 160 grain cup/core-type bullets.) You can get a chronograph for $155. Much cheaper than a blown up gun & E.R. visit:
Competition Electronics ProChrono DLX Bluetooth Chronograph
The next generation of the ProChrono model based on a time proven design that has been measuring “almost anything that shoots” since 1985!...
www.midwayusa.com
You know something is up & not right or you wouldn't have posted. That was smart. Now you need to listen to people that have been there, done that, & got the T-shirt. That'd be really smart. Stay safe & it'll still be fun! Good luck.
