Pressure signs with factory ammo

[BlazerBeam]

Is there any resistance to chambering the round and closing the bolt before firing? I know noslers dimensions on their factory ammo brass was causing people fits in the 28 nosler a little while back

 

[bpcrshooter]

take one put it in your refrigerator overnight. put it in a cooler with a cold pack and head to the range. see if it changes. If it still persists I would look at the firing pin hole as others have said

 

[WGTX]

Thanks for all the advise and suggestions. Asked earlier - only ammo tried has been Nosler. I say I looked for a carbon ring after cleaning, but I did see something that could be that after firing 15 rounds so I'm going to look into that again, second guessing myself a little getting used to using a borescope. The chamber was cleaned with break cleaner and dried. I'll try chilling a round before firing, I have a fridge right beside the back porch that I shoot off of. I am curious of onions on the condition of that pulled bullet, like I said I'm really new to reloading and it was really rough, like really tight neck tension ?

 

[HaroldNRAEndowment]

Like the title says factory ammo, I do have questions related to reloading though. Little background, very new to reloading, I've successfully made a few hundred .223 & .308 lately just tryin to learn the basics. The issue/questions are about a 26 Nosler that I traded for. It supposed has low round count but who knows. Came with 80 rounds of 140 ab and 60 of 142 ablr. I have had it quite a while but had only shot a few rounds through it about a year ago and didn't think much about it. So forward to now and with the limited knowledge I've gained (a lot of it from this site) made me question what I saw yesterday from this factory ammo. First picture is the 142s, second the 140s. The 142s cbto averaged 2.706, the 140s 2.766. I pulled one of the 142s to measure with, I was surprised how scared it was when I did, I've only pulled a couple .223s that I've loaded,they didn't look like this (3rd pic), had 71.1gr of whatever Nosler loads. So using the Hornady tool jammed all the way I come up with 2.839 and just touching 2.703. This is where the questions start, I'm unsure of my process measuring, jammed all the way seems simple enough, just touching much harder to be consistent. I started out yesterday with a clean, pretty close to bare, dry bore and chamber. All rounds resulted in stiff bolt lift, not have to death grip or pick up the rifle but definitely stiff. Would it make sense to pull/reseat bullets in the factory ammo for some jump ? Or dump the powder and try something different ? BTW velocity average was 3251 and of the powders listed in the Nosler manual 71.1 should be pretty mild. With a bore scope I can see what maybe a carbon ring starting ? after 15 rounds that wasn't there when I started. Am I overthinking this ? Couple years ago I'd have looked at the brass and thought that's weird and kept right on stuffing and shooting, lol. Any advice is appreciated. Hope the pictures load, my sat internet is pretty lame.

First I will apologize up front for I am in a hurry this morning and do not have time to absorb all the details. That being said, all firearm users should be aware of the following. When one looks on the specifications of powder, you may find a minimum and maximum temperature the powder should be stored. Think about a person that stores the ammunition in a vehicle. Inside vehicles can go up to 160/180 degrees under certain conditions and then there is Winter conditions. Also what enhances the breakdown is a continuing Heat/Cold cycles. Then there is one more part of the equation. Everyone knows what a vibratory cleaner is. Most powders are generally made of the same chemical until one gets into the latest powders that have two basic chemicals. So the next statement is there are hundreds of powders that burn at the varying rates using the exact same chemical. There are 2 basic ways the burn rate is changed. Shape of the granule that changes the surface area that will react with the Hot Gasses from the Cap(an explosive) and then there are Micro-Coatings that ****** the rate of burn. Regressing a little, I have driven on hard dirt roads, what is known as a wash board roa), that have ripples in it. One time I was driving down one of these for the first time, and without exaggeration, the vibration was so bad I was wondering it if was tearing up the vehicle, electronics etc. and that was in an interim about 15 minutes. If a person lived in the country on unpaved roads, or hunted regularly under these conditions, The vibration is no different than a vibratory cleaner. That being said, one has to think about what is happening to the granules of powder in the cartridges. Even though this would be a very rare condition, one has to think about such things especially if one keeps the ammunition in the vehicle. I would suggest, if a person is in that situation, to go to the range and use their ammunition so it will be replaced on a regular basis. How Often would be a mystery depending on how much vibration and or temperature change over the course of storing the ammunition. This probably is a rare situation And is a real situation to be considered
Best Regards.

 

[WGTX]

Is there any resistance to chambering the round and closing the bolt before firing? I know noslers dimensions on their factory ammo brass was causing people fits in the 28 nosler a little while back

Not that I remember but I will check that also. Thanks.

 

[NATE40]

Like the title says factory ammo, I do have questions related to reloading though. Little background, very new to reloading, I've successfully made a few hundred .223 & .308 lately just tryin to learn the basics. The issue/questions are about a 26 Nosler that I traded for. It supposed has low round count but who knows. Came with 80 rounds of 140 ab and 60 of 142 ablr. I have had it quite a while but had only shot a few rounds through it about a year ago and didn't think much about it. So forward to now and with the limited knowledge I've gained (a lot of it from this site) made me question what I saw yesterday from this factory ammo. First picture is the 142s, second the 140s. The 142s cbto averaged 2.706, the 140s 2.766. I pulled one of the 142s to measure with, I was surprised how scared it was when I did, I've only pulled a couple .223s that I've loaded,they didn't look like this (3rd pic), had 71.1gr of whatever Nosler loads. So using the Hornady tool jammed all the way I come up with 2.839 and just touching 2.703. This is where the questions start, I'm unsure of my process measuring, jammed all the way seems simple enough, just touching much harder to be consistent. I started out yesterday with a clean, pretty close to bare, dry bore and chamber. All rounds resulted in stiff bolt lift, not have to death grip or pick up the rifle but definitely stiff. Would it make sense to pull/reseat bullets in the factory ammo for some jump ? Or dump the powder and try something different ? BTW velocity average was 3251 and of the powders listed in the Nosler manual 71.1 should be pretty mild. With a bore scope I can see what maybe a carbon ring starting ? after 15 rounds that wasn't there when I started. Am I overthinking this ? Couple years ago I'd have looked at the brass and thought that's weird and kept right on stuffing and shooting, lol. Any advice is appreciated. Hope the pictures load, my sat internet is pretty lame.

Was it a hot day? Was the ammunition in the sun? I have had this happen with factory ammo started bringing a cooler to keep ammo in.

 

[WGTX]

Was it a hot day? Was the ammunition in the sun? I have had this happen with factory ammo started bringing a cooler to keep ammo in.

Mid 90s but not in the sun, shooting off my covered back porch with a portacool blowing on us. Ammo just world temp.

 

[NATE40]

Try cooling your ammo before shooting let us know

 

[Bob Wright]

"I am curious of onions on the condition of that pulled bullet, like I said I'm really new to reloading and it was really rough, like really tight neck tension ?"

I would say the rough surface of the bearing area on that bullet pulled, was either a near zero neck chamfer and/or a neck crimp from the loading process at the factory.
It shouldn't concern you.
Just remember to chamfer your brass when reloading. Its always helpful to buy a good reloading book that goes in depth on brass prep. It's where a reloader spends a lot of time, more than anything else and it pays back in spades when it's a consistent and repeatable process.

 

[NATE40]

"I am curious of onions on the condition of that pulled bullet, like I said I'm really new to reloading and it was really rough, like really tight neck tension ?"

I would say the rough surface of the bearing area on that bullet pulled, was either a near zero neck chamfer and/or a neck crimp from the loading process at the factory.
It shouldn't concern you.
Just remember to chamfer your brass when reloading. Its always helpful to buy a good reloading book that goes in depth on brass prep. It's where a reloader spends a lot of time, more than anything else and it pays back in spades when it's a consistent and repeatable process.

Brass will expand to to your chamber before it sends the projectile should not cause pressure

 

[Stgraves260]

Like the title says factory ammo, I do have questions related to reloading though. Little background, very new to reloading, I've successfully made a few hundred .223 & .308 lately just tryin to learn the basics. The issue/questions are about a 26 Nosler that I traded for. It supposed has low round count but who knows. Came with 80 rounds of 140 ab and 60 of 142 ablr. I have had it quite a while but had only shot a few rounds through it about a year ago and didn't think much about it. So forward to now and with the limited knowledge I've gained (a lot of it from this site) made me question what I saw yesterday from this factory ammo. First picture is the 142s, second the 140s. The 142s cbto averaged 2.706, the 140s 2.766. I pulled one of the 142s to measure with, I was surprised how scared it was when I did, I've only pulled a couple .223s that I've loaded,they didn't look like this (3rd pic), had 71.1gr of whatever Nosler loads. So using the Hornady tool jammed all the way I come up with 2.839 and just touching 2.703. This is where the questions start, I'm unsure of my process measuring, jammed all the way seems simple enough, just touching much harder to be consistent. I started out yesterday with a clean, pretty close to bare, dry bore and chamber. All rounds resulted in stiff bolt lift, not have to death grip or pick up the rifle but definitely stiff. Would it make sense to pull/reseat bullets in the factory ammo for some jump ? Or dump the powder and try something different ? BTW velocity average was 3251 and of the powders listed in the Nosler manual 71.1 should be pretty mild. With a bore scope I can see what maybe a carbon ring starting ? after 15 rounds that wasn't there when I started. Am I overthinking this ? Couple years ago I'd have looked at the brass and thought that's weird and kept right on stuffing and shooting, lol. Any advice is appreciated. Hope the pictures load, my sat internet is pretty lame.

Like the title says factory ammo, I do have questions related to reloading though. Little background, very new to reloading, I've successfully made a few hundred .223 & .308 lately just tryin to learn the basics. The issue/questions are about a 26 Nosler that I traded for. It supposed has low round count but who knows. Came with 80 rounds of 140 ab and 60 of 142 ablr. I have had it quite a while but had only shot a few rounds through it about a year ago and didn't think much about it. So forward to now and with the limited knowledge I've gained (a lot of it from this site) made me question what I saw yesterday from this factory ammo. First picture is the 142s, second the 140s. The 142s cbto averaged 2.706, the 140s 2.766. I pulled one of the 142s to measure with, I was surprised how scared it was when I did, I've only pulled a couple .223s that I've loaded,they didn't look like this (3rd pic), had 71.1gr of whatever Nosler loads. So using the Hornady tool jammed all the way I come up with 2.839 and just touching 2.703. This is where the questions start, I'm unsure of my process measuring, jammed all the way seems simple enough, just touching much harder to be consistent. I started out yesterday with a clean, pretty close to bare, dry bore and chamber. All rounds resulted in stiff bolt lift, not have to death grip or pick up the rifle but definitely stiff. Would it make sense to pull/reseat bullets in the factory ammo for some jump ? Or dump the powder and try something different ? BTW velocity average was 3251 and of the powders listed in the Nosler manual 71.1 should be pretty mild. With a bore scope I can see what maybe a carbon ring starting ? after 15 rounds that wasn't there when I started. Am I overthinking this ? Couple years ago I'd have looked at the brass and thought that's weird and kept right on stuffing and shooting, lol. Any advice is appreciated. Hope the pictures load, my sat internet is pretty lame.

I would just start from scratch. I wound dump all the powder out of the brass cause there is no way of knowing what kind of powder it even is so how would you know how much to put in the brass.

 

[Jlusk]

All powder degrades when heated. We have time/heat limits for ammunition in the military. The heat cycles start at 100 degrees ambient temp and go to 140 degrees plus ambient temp. Time factors can be days at 100 degrees, to only an hour or two at 140. If you have ever seen videos for military personnel burning or blowing up large amounts of small arms ammo it's because the ammo is no longer safe to use or store. The military tries its best to keep ammo out of direct sunlight and stored in shaded or double walled storage containers, and those containers get daily temperature reading. When you go to the range or transport ammo, just be aware that an increase in the ammunition's temperature above 100 degrees will start degrading the powder, the potential for over pressure when fired is one of the side effects of degraded powder. Chilling the ammo will not reverse the effects of powder that has been subjected to temps above 100 degrees. The chemical bounds are already broken and chilling will not cause them to rejoin.

 

[lyle2231]

Like the title says factory ammo, I do have questions related to reloading though. Little background, very new to reloading, I've successfully made a few hundred .223 & .308 lately just tryin to learn the basics. The issue/questions are about a 26 Nosler that I traded for. It supposed has low round count but who knows. Came with 80 rounds of 140 ab and 60 of 142 ablr. I have had it quite a while but had only shot a few rounds through it about a year ago and didn't think much about it. So forward to now and with the limited knowledge I've gained (a lot of it from this site) made me question what I saw yesterday from this factory ammo. First picture is the 142s, second the 140s. The 142s cbto averaged 2.706, the 140s 2.766. I pulled one of the 142s to measure with, I was surprised how scared it was when I did, I've only pulled a couple .223s that I've loaded,they didn't look like this (3rd pic), had 71.1gr of whatever Nosler loads. So using the Hornady tool jammed all the way I come up with 2.839 and just touching 2.703. This is where the questions start, I'm unsure of my process measuring, jammed all the way seems simple enough, just touching much harder to be consistent. I started out yesterday with a clean, pretty close to bare, dry bore and chamber. All rounds resulted in stiff bolt lift, not have to death grip or pick up the rifle but definitely stiff. Would it make sense to pull/reseat bullets in the factory ammo for some jump ? Or dump the powder and try something different ? BTW velocity average was 3251 and of the powders listed in the Nosler manual 71.1 should be pretty mild. With a bore scope I can see what maybe a carbon ring starting ? after 15 rounds that wasn't there when I started. Am I overthinking this ? Couple years ago I'd have looked at the brass and thought that's weird and kept right on stuffing and shooting, lol. Any advice is appreciated. Hope the pictures load, my sat internet is pretty lame.

May I suggest....Take 5 rounds reduce OAL 10 thousandths, shoot a group , take another 5 rounds reduce another 10 thousandths, total of 20 thousandths. Take a look at the brass.
HTH

 

[Starlite]

I had a Remington 700 in a 7 mm short action ultra mag that did that with factory ammo when it was brand new. I called Remington and they said to send in the ammunition for testing, then they told me to send in the rifle to be checked. They found out the rifle head too much headspace and replaced it. The new rifle still did that on the first two or three shots after being cleaned and then settled down. It might be a good idea to have your rifle headspace checked.

He can check his headspace by comparison of his unfired brass to his fired brass.
OP
For what it's worth. Without knowing the throat and barrel conditions now. You might be going down a rabbit hole and thus causing further unnecessary throat wear.
I'd start there. Just my 2c