Large rifle primers can crater a lot before they pop, as a general rule of thumb. Every 257 Weatherby I have ever owned has cratered primers in the worst way imaginable at the accuracy node. I ignore craters. I have NEVER had a Remington large bolt face or magnum bolt "blank" primers due to oversize firing pins.
You can see on the bolt head that the bolt face is not square. Top end loads may show a tad bit of contact on the high side of the bolt, you can ignore this also, depending on other factors.
Very often, you get the slightest pressure signs, like in the OP's pictures, right at the top end accuracy node. Often loads are EXTREMELY accurate at this slight pressure, the cost could be primer pockets opening up. You have to make up your mind if the cost of brass is worth the accuracy, or back off on your load with less accuracy/pressure.
Nosler brass is on the softer side, since you are not experiencing increased bolt lift, then ignore the cratering. If you are not getting increased bolt lift, then you maybe anxious over nothing regarding cratering..
So, you can make brass from tougher Winchester 280 brass or the even tougher 30/06 brass made by Lapua.
OP stated that he was anxious approaching Max Reloading manual book loads. NOTE: any reloading manual you pick up will state min and max loads that is intended as an EXAMPLE for the Ballistic's Lab Test gun. This is meant to show what is safe in their barrel with their particular lot# of components.
I shoot Lapua 30/06 brass in all of my 280 AI's. The neck is a little shorter, I just clean the necks in the chamber with a pistol brush, examining with a bore scope. I do neck turn. I fire form the brass with 14.6g of bullseye, cream of wheat, and a piece of paper towel....easy. No more loose primer pockets or premature pressure signs on case heads. Lapua brass puts you in another league when it comes to taking pressure in this wonderful case. I shoot 175's at 2950 with IMR 7828 with a fed 210 primer, 26" barrels.