Buckys
Well-Known Member
Timely post and suggestion for the Renaissance wax. Shooting a lot of clays recently and stressing about the handling issues with body oils, etc. Thanks for the tip.
Johnson's is getting really expensive and I've had trouble finding it recently when I wanted a new can for a new cabinet. Great stuff on furniture, and dries hard. I've never used it on a wood stock but don't know why it wouldn't work very well.Johnson's paste wax is an excellent alternative. It does not last as long as Renaissance wax but is the only other natural wax product safe for all woods and metals. Unfortunately, Johnson is fazing it out after many years so make sure to stock up if you like it. I use it on all my fine furniture, but RW is a better outdoor protection IMHO.
I ordered the Renaissance it was cheap enough on Amazon.I've used nothing in the past but, yall got me thinking.
The minute Johnson reported that they would no longer make it, it started flying off the shelves. I have seen people asking $100 a can for it on eBay! That's just crazy. If you want something a bit better for furniture try Old Master's paste wax. It has a lot more Carnauba wax than Johnson's as well as microcrystaline wax like Renaissance. It also has pure gum turpentine. The reason for adding turpentine spirits to a wax formula like yours is to keep the beeswax from hardening too much. All the old English gunsmiths formulas for hand rubbed oil finishes on the finest shotguns included gum turpentine boiled linseed oil and beeswax.Johnson's is getting really expensive and I've had trouble finding it recently when I wanted a new can for a new cabinet. Great stuff on furniture, and dries hard. I've never used it on a wood stock but don't know why it wouldn't work very well.
Big plus one for Ren Wax, been using it for years, and a can lasts forever. The only time I deviated from it was a few months ago I made up a batch of wax recommended on the CMP forums to use on a Garand I just refinished (Hey Muddyboots!). That was 50/50 BLO and Mineral Spirits (I can't buy turpentine here in the People's Republik according to Czar Newsom), then another part Beeswax. So 1:1:1. Some recipes online use more Beeswax to make it harder, but I don't want to have to heat it to get it to apply. Slow melt the whole thing together on the stove, give it a couple hours to cool.
It gives a wax with a hard but creamy consistency that goes on great and polishes out nicely, really pops the wood. Everyone said melting it up would smell, but not for me.
Same here, Joe. It has been excellent stuff. I have used it on 300 year old walnut when a part of the finish was wrecked. Then acoustic guitars fron the '50s.I use the same it is really good stuff and easy to use. I have a Cooper 57M that I have had for a long time and it has traveled many miles in the squirrel woods. Renaissance made that older wood look really nice again.
Timely post and suggestion for the Renaissance wax. Shooting a lot of clays recently and stressing about the handling issues with body oils, etc. Thanks for the tip.
You probably put it on too thick. A little goes a long way! Take a buffing cloth or an old towel and buff it out turning the cloth frequently.