OCW: GAP 300WM 190gr SMK RL-22

[Michael Eichele]

I've checked the rings/bases.....GAP mounted all that but I rechecked it. I'll look into it though. I appreciate your input Mike.....goin' after some coues after Thanksgiving

NICE!
Let us know here and over at CWT.com how that hunt goes. How did you check your base?

 

[coues7]

I removed the scope and verified the torque on the bases. They are Seekins Precision 20MOA bases. I torqued them to 24 INCH/lbs.

Scott

 

[Michael Eichele]

I removed the scope and verified the torque on the bases. They are Seekins Precision 20MOA bases. I torqued them to 24 INCH/lbs.

Scott

Try this:

1: Take all 4 base screws out.

2: Install the 2 screws on the front of your base.

3: Look to see if there is any space between the rear of the action and the base.

4: Repeat the proccess using the rear screws while looking for space between the front of the action and the base.

If there is much space at all, this is enough to cause stress on the action when you take and torque a straight rigid object like a scope to a base that is not straight due to an imperfect action. If there is space, the base should be bedded to fill the gap so the base can be straight. A straight scope and a straight base is critical to consistent accuracy. They typically come straight from the factory. The key is keeping them straight when mounting them to the action. It also helps to lap the rings.

 

[coues7]

Mike,

I did as you instructed and there is zero light passing through. It appears that everything is parallel and that no bending/torquing is occurring.

Scott

 

[Buffalobob]

First thing is to check to see if you have developed a carbon ring. If so use Iossa or JB paste to get it out.

Second thing is to reduce the powder charge below max and jam the bullet and see how that works. Find a charge that the bullet likes while jammed and then start backing out or do it vice versa. I shoot a lot of RL22 but I bought 16 pounds of the same lot so I do not have to worry about lot variation.

Thirdly, if possible, find a bench to shoot from and a rock steady front and rear rest and test your loads from it.

And I would do what you did with the scope base but with the action this time. Loosen the screws slowly and see if the action is torqued in the bedding and then tighten them back up slowly checking barrel channel clearance. You may have said you already have done this and if so disregard this.

You can also check to see if the bolt is actually locking down or is instead making contact with the stock and never reaching full lock.

Finally as was mentioned no rifle will shoot better than the guy on the trigger so do not expect to shoot better than normal.

 

[BountyHunter]

Go to standard primers. Many magnums shoot much better with standard primers.

 

[johnnyk]

coues7,
I use quiet a bit of RL22, not only in the 7mmRemMag and .300WinMag, but also in my .25-06Rem. I have tried it in my 6.5-284Norma, but nothing stands out.
I tried H1000 for the first time last year in my .300WinMag and was thoroughly surprised and pleased! I was loading the 190gn SMK and used CCI 250 primers.
I loaded from 79.0 to 80.5gn in 1/2 gn increments. All four loads were .010" off the lands and grooves (2.9090" for my rifle) and accuracy ran under 1/2", but 79.0 was the best of the four. Velocity averaged 3078fps, ES was 7.83, SD was 4.12 and accuracy went .142" @ 100yds.
Give it a try, it may be just what your .300 is looking for. JohnnyK.

 

[jsthntn247]

I'm like the last poster. I would try Retumbo or H-1000. You can't beat these powders in the big magnums with big bullets.