New to reloading...this is my plan...

[SealT5]

I'm going to get backlash for saying this but don't waste your money on a reloading book. Everything you need to know is published on the web for free and you can bookmark everything. I will say there are some advanced books worth buying later on

 

[Mossyhorn]

you need to FULL LENGTH size FOR YOUR CHAMBER.
WITH BELTED CASES growth at the belt can become an issue.
there is a belt sizing die that sizes just above the belt.
(some one jump in here with the source)

So I need a Standard 2 die kit, plus a bump die and a belt die?

Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology?

 

[Rflamm250]

So I need a Standard 2 die kit, plus a bump die and a belt die?

No not in my experience. You should only need a FL sizing die and seater. I would expect 3 to 4 firings on your brass without annealing. Neck tension after 3 to 4 gets inconsistent.

 

[sedancowboy]

Please lets not have him solving problems he don't yet have. You need to learn to walk before you can run. I doubt you will need a Larry Willis collet die. Buy a set of regular dies and load some ammo and shoot it. be safe, start low and shoot a few rounds and see how your rifle likes them. After you are comfortable with reloading them we will talk about headspace and bumping shoulders.
Just my .02 worth.

 

[Colin78]

MOA rifles gave me the load recipe too for what they loaded me, so that should give me a good head start as it shoots very well.
So I think I've got a good load recipe. Just gotta do my part and load as accurately as I can.

Please lets not have him solving problems he don't yet have. You need to learn to walk before you can run. I doubt you will need a Larry Willis collet die. Buy a set of regular dies and load some ammo and shoot it. be safe, start low and shoot a few rounds and see how your rifle likes them. After you are comfortable with reloading them we will talk about headspace and bumping shoulders.
Just my .02 worth.

Agreed. Start very simple and get some of your reloads down the tube then start getting into more complicated things. As to starting with the load your smith gave you that is great you have an idea of where you are going and know what your rifle is capable of with quality reloads but I would not start with that exact load. Reduce it some....your once fired cases will be slightly different as explained previously and case capacity, neck tension, bullet seating depth, pretty much everything can effect pressure and your loads will be slightly different that the ones your smith loaded.

 

[Mossyhorn]

So this is a list I've been working on for a few weeks and put some more into it today. Thoughts? What am I missing? As for a brass tumbler, not sure what to do? Should I also get a beam scale in addition to a chargemaster lite?

Digital calipers $35

Rcbs powder trickled $27

Funnel $6

Lee auto primer $27

Rockchucker Press $180

Brass tumbler

Forster Dies $90

Wilson case trimmer w/micrometer $155

Deburring tool $20

Dial micrometer $50

Chargemaster lite $230

Hornady coal measuring tool $20

Primer pocket brush $18

Depriming die $20

Case lube and pad

Headspace gauge $36

 

[ar10ar15man]

no bump die, no std die set
do some more reading
look for full length bushing dies
std dies use a pull thru button to size the inside of the neck.
this pulling is well known source of bent necks.
a bushing allows you to tune neck tension without a bent neck.
yes they cost more, and bushings cost money,
but long range ACCURATE shooting ain't cheap

So I need a Standard 2 die kit, plus a bump die and a belt die?

Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology?

 

[Axl]

So this is a list I've been working on for a few weeks and put some more into it today. Thoughts? What am I missing? As for a brass tumbler, not sure what to do? Should I also get a beam scale in addition to a chargemaster lite?

Digital calipers $35

Rcbs powder trickled $27

Funnel $6

Lee auto primer $27

Rockchucker Press $180

Brass tumbler

Forster Dies $90

Wilson case trimmer w/micrometer $155

Deburring tool $20

Dial micrometer $50

Chargemaster lite $230

Hornady coal measuring tool $20

Primer pocket brush $18

Depriming die $20

Case lube and pad

Headspace gauge $36

You can get a beam scale if you want to check the CM lite, I have used a Chargemaster for a long time and they are pretty much "on".
That said if you don't get a scale you can live without the trickler.
For priming you can use your press if you want ( I did on a Rockchucker for many years) if not I would look at the Frankford hand prime tool its more than the Lee but when I got one i put the Lee in the garbage can.
For a tumbler I have an RCBC vibratory I bought in 1985 still going.
The Wilson trimmer is a good one also look at Forster's.
Can use your resize die to de-prime if you wish.
Instead of a case lube pad I would use Hornady one shot.
I would buy 3 or more load manuals, I say this because when i was a youngster just starting out helping my dad load I read every one he had cover to cover several times. Cant tell you how bad i wanted a 22 Hornet at age 11!
Now my oldest son loads all his own ammo and my 5 year old sits on my lap putting cases in the shell holder while i'm resizing.
Have fun with it, be safe, and keep asking questions.

 

[Swamplord]

Going long range and gonna reload ?

Two things ...

move away from belted cartridges, it's 2019, no real reason to go backwards ......

planning to shoot big game @ 1000 + yards ? you'll need something bigger than a 7mm Rem Mag

other than that ,

the RCBS Rockchucker Supreme press will work to load accurate ammo for all cartridges up to the CheyTacs and a bit longer wildcats up to 3.2" case length with long copper solid bullets

the Redding Big Boss ll press is also a good one for the price, works great for loading my 300 Rum, 338 Edge and Norma Mag based wildcats, got two of those bolted to my bench

the Redding Ultramag press is awesome but more money than the Big Boss ll

 

[DFHarley19]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the tips! Like I said, I've been reading a ton of posts on here and other sources, watching videos, etc. It is pretty overwhelming trying to pick individual pieces, as there isn't always a lot of consensus on what is a good tool, ha ha!

I know the rockchucker kit comes with a reloading manual which is a plus.

I will be using Norma brass and have 40 pieces already of once fired that I've gone thru. I try to keep it clean and put it right back in the box after fires. MOA rifles gave me the load recipe too for what they loaded me, so that should give me a good head start as it shoots very well. I ran 10 rounds thru a magnetospeed chrono (first time using a chrono) my first 5 rounds had an SD of around 5. I should have let my barrel cool but it started pouring down rain on me. I put 5 more rounds thru and they were all faster than my previous 5. It kicked my SD up to 10.7.

So I think I've got a good load recipe. Just gotta do my part and load as accurately as I can.

Your SD is around 5. That is pretty darn good! Make sure you write down your FPS that has 5 SD! You will be able to find right weight of the powder to match your FPS.

 

[misterc01]

IMHO the three most important aspects of reloading are: 1. SAFETY! 2. Concentration. Distraction can turn disastrous. 3. Consistency. I added the RCBS Precision Mic to the measuring tool menagerie, and use it with Larry Willis' digital headspace gauge as well. Then the standard batch of comparators, etc. Don't forget the Hornady tools for getting your seating depth sorted out. The rabbit hole gets deeper the longer you reload, especially for precision reloading, and as you go, you will find other things you "need" as you go. I personally use a checklist so I do the same things in the same order each time. Keeps me on track. If I reach a stopping point, I know what has been done, what is left to do and where to start up again. The checklist grows as I learn more. Might suggest more than one reloading manual, also info for the companies that make powder and bullets, etc. I also find a burn rate cart a handy reference when I am deciding on powder choices. And then - have fun!

 

[Alibiiv]

I'm going to get backlash for saying this but don't waste your money on a reloading book. Everything you need to know is published on the web for free and you can bookmark everything. I will say there are some advanced books worth buying later on

Hello West, I have to somewhat agree and then disagree with not buying a manual when one first gets started. Yes you can get your load data for free on most of the sites; however, they do not give you the technical information that you can go over and read a couple of times or more to get your own answers. I agree on buying advanced books once the OP gets familiar with reloading, but first starting out, I'd recommend more that one manual. The OP wrote, "I've been reading a ton of posts on here and other sources, watching videos, etc." The only concern I have about reading posts on any forum and watching videos is that there is a lot of "misinformation" that is out there online. One case in point was when I was seriously considering building a custom .280 Ackley Improved with the .014 thousandths difference between the .280 Ackley Improved (SAAMI) and the .280 Ackley Improved wildcat. There was a very convincing You Tube video that was explaining the difference between the two cartridges and also on this forum. Well the You Tube video "and" some of the posts on this forum were incorrect to the point where I was so confused that I built a rifle with a totally different cartridge. I suggest sticking with the manuals, and more that one, to get one's data from.

 

[Zep]

I had 2 very good reloading mentors. Without having at least one competent reloading mentor who uses very good equipment I would forget it. $4.25 for a quality hunting round is certainly acceptable to me.

The route I took also involved reading just about every reloading book/manual out there. ABCs of Reloading was a good start. Lee after that, Lyman, Sierra, Berger, Nosler. All gave me insight.

As for equipment, call and get a Sinclair catalog -

https://www.sinclairintl.com

I use one of their rests for load development. Another 400+ bucks. I use one of their case trimmers. Another few hundred+. I have 2 Redding presses. Dies are Redding and Foster. Call and ask for catalogs.

https://www.forsterproducts.com

https://www.redding-reloading.com

I am a shooter that enjoys reloading and I am good at it. But it is not for everyone. $4.25 for a handcrafted cartridge that works should not be ruled out. A bargain in the end. Long range load development can certainly become a rabbit hole.

 

[Hunterguy36]

Hi, I'm a new member here. Been reading for some time and this will be my first post. I've hunted my whole life...Oregon, Alaska, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana. Never shot at anything over 400 yards and recently bought a MOA extreme summit 7mm Rem Mag as I wanted to stretch things out and shoot a bit further with confidence. With the help of a friend, my first shot at 1000 was a dead ringer! After a string of shots, I then stretched it out to 1160 with pretty good results!. I have to say I'm hooked on the long range shooting deal.

So I figured I might as well get into the reloading thing too! The custom ammo made for my gun is about $4.25 a squeeze! I figured I might as well invest in a reloading setup for that kind of money.

After reading a great deal on here and finding a great sale online, I'm thinking about purchasing the Rockchucker kit and a chargemaster lite. On Natchez I can get both for $500. Additionally I'll need some premium dies and my components, obviously.

So is this a good starting point for someone that wants shoot out to 1000-1200 yards? What other tools will I need that aren't included in the Rockchucker kit that I may need?

Thanks!

Your making a good choice, with both reloading and the kit. RCBS is an excellent press for starters and experienced people they hold up really well through all calibers and the chargemaster is an excellent scale. As far as the die sets the rcbs dies are nice as well as the Hornady American series. The Hornady s have a sleeve on the seater die that help keep the bullet aligned when seating so it goes in straight without shaving off the bullet. I would suggest for a primer tool though to switch to a lee hand primer because they are designed and set up a little better than the RCBS.