New to reloading question.
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epoletna
Well-Known Member
Kinetic puller is safe and doesn't deform the bullet. I have collet pullers — they're fast and convenient when set up, but I believe they can deform thin-skinned Bullets.
Previous replies have talked about checking primers. I consider that the best advice. Look for primers that have flattened, flowed in and around the firing pin hole, or show tool marks from the bolt. Powder charge and bullet weight are not the only thing that make high pressure, and a wise reloader watches primers closely.
Suggestion: pull one cartridge marked with "47" and see if that is, indeed, the charge weight. That will answer one question and give you experience with the kinetic puller. Don't be surprised if the Bullets are harder to pull than you expected.
Previous replies have talked about checking primers. I consider that the best advice. Look for primers that have flattened, flowed in and around the firing pin hole, or show tool marks from the bolt. Powder charge and bullet weight are not the only thing that make high pressure, and a wise reloader watches primers closely.
Suggestion: pull one cartridge marked with "47" and see if that is, indeed, the charge weight. That will answer one question and give you experience with the kinetic puller. Don't be surprised if the Bullets are harder to pull than you expected.
Best thing u can do is educate yourself on what to look for. I have a lot of rifles and not one if them have a load within book specs. I use to start at book max but once I started getting into big magnums I quit that. Now I typically start 1 gr under book max and start working up to pressure. Your rounds will be plenty safe to shoot and I personally would roll on with them.
One suggestion I can give you keep a log book. When shooting high power we kept a log of every shot standing sitting and prone if your shooting varmint of bench I would do the same draw a little target in your log mark every shot write down powder type weight bullet weight brand mark down the jump everything this will save you time and aggravation good luck
stirner
Well-Known Member
You have fallen into the new reloader's trap. Do not despair, we have all been there, and there are more traps to come. At least you do not have an overbearing ego, and are intelligent enough to realize that you could be in trouble, and need help.
You have come to a good source of info. However, don't stop here. I would also go to "accurateshooter.com" and "6.5 Grendel.com" for good info with little BS. There are many others, and Gooogle is your friend here. Your library is lackng. You need a book published by a bullet manufacturer, and a powder manufacturer. You will be looking for books with a lengthy intro into reloading, more than the loading data itself. Hodgdon and Sierra come to mind. Also, the Hornady manual is quite helpful. Load data is best found online, as new loads can be found here, that won't be found in a manual until the next edition is published.
Now, for your immediate problem. Whenever you load for a new cartridge, primer, powder, or bullet, you have to start from scratch. I try to use the components I have on hand, but usually end up with one powder for one rifle. I think Varget is the only powder that I use in two rifles. Google (your friend) for load data from at least two sources, and pick the components you think will work best for you. Don't worry, it's a crap shoot at best. Load 5 single rounds in increments up to the max load listed. The increments will be 1% (0.01) of the max load. Let's say the max load is 30 grains of powder, the increment will be 0.3 grains. You will load one round each at 30 grains, 29.7, 29.4, 29.1 and 28.8 grains. Shoot these starting at 28.8 grains and check for signs of pressure on each before shooting the next higher load. If you observe pressure signs, stop there. That is max pressure for your rifle with those components.
If you have unfired loads, as you do now, pull the bullets. The puller you have now is adequate for the job. Once you pull the bullet and powder, you must resize the case neck. Otherwise, the neck tension will be different than a sized case. What I do here, is remove the depriming pin and run them thru the sizing die.
As you venture into the reloading process you will find that you need, real or imagined, other tools. One will be a notebook. You need to keep a history of what you have done, and when you did it. You also need a chronograph. The loads listed in manuals will not be the same as what comes out of your rifle.
Have fun, and don't stop asking questions.
You have come to a good source of info. However, don't stop here. I would also go to "accurateshooter.com" and "6.5 Grendel.com" for good info with little BS. There are many others, and Gooogle is your friend here. Your library is lackng. You need a book published by a bullet manufacturer, and a powder manufacturer. You will be looking for books with a lengthy intro into reloading, more than the loading data itself. Hodgdon and Sierra come to mind. Also, the Hornady manual is quite helpful. Load data is best found online, as new loads can be found here, that won't be found in a manual until the next edition is published.
Now, for your immediate problem. Whenever you load for a new cartridge, primer, powder, or bullet, you have to start from scratch. I try to use the components I have on hand, but usually end up with one powder for one rifle. I think Varget is the only powder that I use in two rifles. Google (your friend) for load data from at least two sources, and pick the components you think will work best for you. Don't worry, it's a crap shoot at best. Load 5 single rounds in increments up to the max load listed. The increments will be 1% (0.01) of the max load. Let's say the max load is 30 grains of powder, the increment will be 0.3 grains. You will load one round each at 30 grains, 29.7, 29.4, 29.1 and 28.8 grains. Shoot these starting at 28.8 grains and check for signs of pressure on each before shooting the next higher load. If you observe pressure signs, stop there. That is max pressure for your rifle with those components.
If you have unfired loads, as you do now, pull the bullets. The puller you have now is adequate for the job. Once you pull the bullet and powder, you must resize the case neck. Otherwise, the neck tension will be different than a sized case. What I do here, is remove the depriming pin and run them thru the sizing die.
As you venture into the reloading process you will find that you need, real or imagined, other tools. One will be a notebook. You need to keep a history of what you have done, and when you did it. You also need a chronograph. The loads listed in manuals will not be the same as what comes out of your rifle.
Have fun, and don't stop asking questions.
shooter7
Well-Known Member
What we see here is the results of loading below book maximum.
I had about a dozen 200gr Barnes LRX leftover from another project. The Barnes load data for the 200 gr LRX and H1000 maxes out at 77.1gr
I started at 72gr and worked up from there. The cartridge on the right was loaded with 75gr, the one on the left with 76gr. For those wondering why I didn't stop testing at 75gr, its because you can only see ejector marks in near perfect lighting. Bolt lift wasn't stiff at 75gr either.
I pulled the remaining 2 76gr loads to confirm that they were indeed at 76gr. Both scales read within a 10th grain.
This is why you always start low and work up.
Wy Will
Well-Known Member
I only worry about pressure signs. I start 2 grains below max and work my way up. Once I see any pressure signs, I stop there and stay under that load for the rest of my testing. Every gun is different and pressures can vary.
I have guns that are loaded well above the max and have zero pressure signs, others see pressure signs before ever reaching max loads.
That is a really good reloading book and it is just a culmination of other loading manuals. It is my go to book.
I have guns that are loaded well above the max and have zero pressure signs, others see pressure signs before ever reaching max loads.
That is a really good reloading book and it is just a culmination of other loading manuals. It is my go to book.
I have not read the entire thread, but what other loads did you do below but close to this maximum? Also, a suggestion. Don't load so many when you're trying to figure out what is ideal. You're going to waste a lot of powder, bullets, and even barrel life if the Max Load turns out to not be your best load.
Other factors could be the number of rounds through your rifle. Sometimes the rifle needs to be broken in and it might take a lot firings before a barrel stabilizes on a final load.
Other factors could be the number of rounds through your rifle. Sometimes the rifle needs to be broken in and it might take a lot firings before a barrel stabilizes on a final load.
You're fine they would not put anything in PRINT that was so near the edge that it would create a liability on their part there is a large safety factor figured and I personally have several loads that exceed Max with no problems but it was worked up slowly
MikeMurf0505!
Active Member
LongestShot
Well-Known Member
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Do some research on what ladder tests entail and with your new brass start slow, following the ladder test and increase your load until you reach an accurate node, each rifle is different. From my personal experience maximum loads are never the most accurate.
Lee Goodwin
Well-Known Member
.308 seems tricky to reload for, for me. The case is small and you want to get the bullet seated well and the projectiles can be long taking up case powder room. And, you want to, but don't always need to push that projectile at a reasonable feet per second. Which to me translates into using the best powder for that caliber. I tried h414 but the case was full at medium charge? Loading 155 projectiles I wanted to use most of all of the neck, so maybe I set the bullets too deep? The boat tail was in the powder. I used the trusty RCBS collet bullet puller. Switched to h4895 and loaded wimpy , for now...
greenejc
Well-Known Member
Yes, you should try to keep a little below it. The reason its listed as a maximum is because its a maximum. Look at your primer pockets. If they are getting seriously cratered and flat or if your case head is shiney where the ejector is, or showing shine from turning the bolt to eject the cartridge, you have a load that's too high pressure for your individual rifle. And it varies from rifle to rifle. You want to err on the side of not damaging your rifle or more importantly yourself. If primers are loose or if the primer pocket has gotten loose, you're really over pressure for your rifle. Drop your loads by about 1.5 grains and stay inside safe territory. If the powder you're using doesn't give you good accuracy at that grain weight, experiment with another powder. But stay well under max charges and work up .5 grains at a time. What powder are you using?
greenejc
Well-Known Member
Short answer: yes. I've used them for years. Put a piece of foam rubber in the end, and it won't mar the tip of the bullet. Then go to town. I use a ceramic bowl to pour the powder into, and after getting the bullet out, I just pour the powder into the measure or back into the can for re-use, assuming I know what type of powder it is-which I do if I did the re-loading. The tool works fine. Just add a little cushioning to the bottom.
