New project!! .30 LR Rifle

[Velvet]

WHY handicap the full potential of a cartridge and have to base everything on your case length to fit a box ??? There are a pain on a long range rig IMO. Its one shot at a time . Plus they feed better and the bolt runs smoother. I pack single shots all the time for deer , antelope and elk and never regretted not having box. Laying on the ground shooting off a bipod or off the bench it takes 2 seconds to throw another round in if needed. Never need to shoot that fast at long range hunting or steel shooting to warrant a repeater. Also don't have to worry about smashing bullet tips. Load them long and get your moneys worth. I would rather use that money for optics or bullets.

Good observation.
In last post, I made a joke about good hunters, they only need one round
Beyond mech stuff job, it is a point against the RUM option, which disappears if I go by single shot. In that case, it is only necessary to modify the bolt stop for it to work properly.
I don't remember what those devices are called by the guys from PRS, to place two rounds next to the extraction window.

 

[netman]

Velvet he machined the rear. If you look at the action out of the stock the machine work cuts out the front screw hole for the trigger guard.
When I spoke to Issac he said he had fitted quite a few Wyatt box's over the years. The Wyatt box fit perfectly.
I found just because my Wyatt box has 4" of clearance does not mean my chamber is cut that deep.

 

[netman]

Velvet also remember my rifle was and is a ADL.

 

[netman]

The advantage of having two in the Mag and one in the chamber is when elk hunting I can remove the chambered round when climbing over deadfall or clambering over rocks. I still have two in the Mag if I should suddenly see a elk or grizzly I can cycle the bolt and be ready.
I thought of the single shot but the Wyatt box was $75 and the machine work was less than $50.

 

[Velvet]

Velvet he machined the rear. If you look at the action out of the stock the machine work cuts out the front screw hole for the trigger guard.
When I spoke to Issac he said he had fitted quite a few Wyatt box's over the years. The Wyatt box fit perfectly.
I found just because my Wyatt box has 4" of clearance does not mean my chamber is cut that deep.

All understood.
My idea is to take advantage of the fact that it is custom, then order a reamer to specs (near 4 "max OAL), so I can get the bullet out of the case as previously discussed, and that it is just a few thou from the landing.
This is valid both for these 220 (I have many), and also for the Berger 230 and 245, or future ones to come.
I want the chamber cut as deep as necesary to achieve my goal.
Again, thank you Sir.

 

[Velvet]

The advantage of having two in the Mag and one in the chamber is when elk hunting I can remove the chambered round when climbing over deadfall or clambering over rocks. I still have two in the Mag if I should suddenly see a elk or grizzly I can cycle the bolt and be ready.
I thought of the single shot but the Wyatt box was $75 and the machine work was less than $50.

At the price level, the truth is that the amount is negligible, and the advantages are obvious.
It forces to put the picatinny rail, for this reason we talk about that the base is in the air, without support, but it is something that you could live with. I'm not a fan of pic rails
Should I put the 8-40 screws in order to withstand the most recoil? or are the standard screws enough?
I think the R700 Lapua comes with the 8-40, I don't know which RUM actions come with, I'm going to check it.

 

[netman]

Velvet I went with the standard base screws. So far all is well. I don't see a problem with the standard(yet). The pic rail is something I can live or live without. I had one handy so I just used it.
I sniff around on longrangeonly.com I found a article on bedding the pic rail which I did.
If I was going to shoot this rifle in some type of competition I would increase the components quality.
I'm using this rifle for elk and long range deer. Outside of shooting long range rocks out west it will be mainly a meat rifle.

 

[loonie]

At the price level, the truth is that the amount is negligible, and the advantages are obvious.
It forces to put the picatinny rail, for this reason we talk about that the base is in the air, without support, but it is something that you could live with. I'm not a fan of pic rails
Should I put the 8-40 screws in order to withstand the most recoil? or are the standard screws enough?
I think the R700 Lapua comes with the 8-40, I don't know which RUM actions come with, I'm going to check it.

I got tired of my rail coming loose on my edge. Had it tapped out to the 8-40 screws , pinned, and then bedded . Problem solved. 40 min rail. I think it a must on a big gun !

 

[Velvet]

Velvet I went with the standard base screws. So far all is well. I don't see a problem with the standard(yet). The pic rail is something I can live or live without. I had one handy so I just used it.
I sniff around on longrangeonly.com I found a article on bedding the pic rail which I did.
If I was going to shoot this rifle in some type of competition I would increase the components quality.
I'm using this rifle for elk and long range deer. Outside of shooting long range rocks out west it will be mainly a meat rifle.

Yes, I agree what you say in relation to the quality of the components. I also have on hand a steel Badger rail, which is what I would put.
I consulted this about the screws, because since I am going to make several modifications, I do them all at once, so I do not have to do anything later.
I started the thread thinking about putting a 32" 1.25" OD straight barrel to only target shooting above 1000y, and I'm finishing with a 26" CF Proof, and a fantastic rifle for not only targeting LR but to hunt too.
Currently that rifle has a kahles k312i with Talley lightweight rings, and weighs about 9.4 pounds. One can walk perfectly with that weight on your back.

It is the most valuable of these forums, each contribution is very valuable and makes you see things from different points of view, ALL VALID.

 

[Velvet]

I got tired of my rail coming loose on my edge. Had it tapped out to the 8-40 screws , pinned, and then bedded . Problem solved. 40 min rail. I think it a must on a big gun !

Agree, it is a minor change, and avoids future problems.
What do you mean pinned ?, I have seen that the pins are put on the recoil lug, but never on a rail.

 

[Velvet]

Agree, it is a minor change, and avoids future problems.
What do you mean pinned ?, I have seen that the pins are put on the recoil lug, but never on a rail.

forget it, I saw how they are

 

[K-guns56]

Hello boys.
I have the following project in mind, and I'd love to hear your thoughts/opinions, in order to make it happen:
Build custom Rifle to consistently hit approximately 1000-1400y, based on .30 cal, and heavy for the caliber bullets: 220-250gn, G1 .700+ BC.
It does not matter the final weight of the rifle (target use mainly), nor the budget, nor the barrel life, if I can shoot more than 1000 is enough.
I have the following components that I would like to take advantage of:
- Trued R700 LA action.
- Jewell trigger
- PTG one piece bolt, with M16 extractor, custom fited to the action. (. 550 "bolt face).
- Badger 20MOA steel pic rail.
- Mcmillan Adj. Game Warden. Action bedded perfectly. Has pillars installed. Supports up to 1.25 "OD barrels. I could buy a chassis, but to start I think it would be ok.
- BDL hinged floor plate. I could put a DBM if necessary.
- more than 1000 220gn ELDX bullets, but that is not conditioning, because I can use them in other rifles. I would like to see them fly at more than 3000ps.
- Several pounds of H1000, but that is not conditioning either.

The components that I should buy:
- Barrel. I thought of a Straight 1.25" OD, 1: 8 Twist, 32"+ long, or the one that arises from the debate ...
- and optical, but does not enter this discussion.

The great question:
Which .30 cartridge to use?
- 300win mag ?, I'm bored with this one, but I have Redding custom dies / shell holders and all the case prep tools, etc.
- 300 RUM?
- 30 Sherman magnum?
- 30 Nosler? (.534" case head)
- 300 Norma Magnum? (need new bolt, .590 ")
- Another 300 ?, I hear you ...

Thank you very much for any valuable contribution you can make.
Regards
V

I am getting ready to sight my Browning X- bolt Long range hunter in 30 Nosler. I topped it with the Nikon Black 1000. Any results for you on your decision my friend?

 

[arch408]

I've owned a .300 RUM with a 26 inch barrel since it was introduced and see no use of getting one of the the newer 30 caliber super mags. The .300 RUM with 180 grain bullets has done every thing that I've asked of it, although I have not an opportunity to shoot any game at extremely long range. If I was to build another, the only changes I would make would be to install a Wyatt's box and throat the barrel to take advantage of added COL.