Need suggestions/help

[jdyoung]

Bolt disassembly of a Browning X Bolt is pretty involved when you get to the bolt head which must be removed to gain access to the retaining pin that holds the ejector in place. That retaining pin for the ejector is tapered. The widest portion is closest to the ejector protruding from the bolt face, so it must be driven out from the narrowest portion, which is furthest from the ejector.
Here is a video to familiarize yourself with the process. You may want to take it apart sometime for a good cleaning.
Sorry, this is the wrong video, my mistake.


I 'd go by 25WSM's post.

 

[L.Sherm]

I just measured some once fired ADG 7 mag brass this mourning compared to fired 3 times, the once fired was .001-.002 shorter at the shoulder compared to 3 fired.
Just pick the longest and go from there if thats all you got you'll be fine, personally I'm liking .003 shoulder bump these days.

 

[BoomFlop]

Factory loaded rounds measurement of 5 rounds are: 1.6240, 1.6230, 1.6220, 1.6215 and 1.6215.

Nosler cases fired 1 time in Browning are: 1.6230, 1.6230, 1.6230, 1.6235 and 1.6235.

So does that tell you guys? What should I run them through the sizing die to achieve? Just enough to fully size neck and not be more than 1.6240?

Thoughts
Steve

 

[25WSM]

Your fired cases are 1.623 so you really want to size them down about .002 or .003 so you are looking for 1.620 or 1.621. Your number of 1.624 would be to large and not size the cases properly. If you stayed at 1.624 for 3 or 4 firings they would get tighter and tighter in your chamber.
Shep

 

[25WSM]

The whole idea is to get your brass back into the chamber easily with minimal sizing. That is why your sized case needs to be smaller than your fired case.
Shep

 

[BoomFlop]

My new unfired Lapua are 1.6200. So size them down to new.

Sorry, for all the questions, but what is the benefit of fired brass then? I'm confused, as the 1x Nosler would actually be sized smaller than Lapua and the loaded Nosler ammo.

Thanks Shep
Steve

 

[L.Sherm]

I've had new cases .020 shorter than fired.
New cases come short to fit in every chamber out there.

 

[jimbires]

if you don't fire the brass , and neck size only , until it starts to get tight to chamber your spitting in the wind . if you are using light loads this could take more than a couple fires to get the brass fully expanded .

 

[25WSM]

The benefits of fired brass is that they are now very close to chamber size. The volume in them is greater than a new case. Full length dies don't size brass back to new only enough to make them fit again. Like sherm said some cases are very short to your chamber and if you developed a load from the new brass and then used that load in sized cases you would be not in tune. And even though you are setting the bump to be the same as your new brass your sized brass will still have more volume. In your case with the components you have now yes you are going to match the new case length. This doesn't happen often. Most of the time your sized cases are going to be longer than new. Especially in belted magnums.
Shep

 

[jdyoung]

Factory loaded rounds measurement of 5 rounds are: 1.6240, 1.6230, 1.6220, 1.6215 and 1.6215.

Nosler cases fired 1 time in Browning are: 1.6230, 1.6230, 1.6230, 1.6235 and 1.6235.

So does that tell you guys? What should I run them through the sizing die to achieve? Just enough to fully size neck and not be more than 1.6240?

Thoughts
Steve

I would neck size the longest of the Nosler 1 time fired in the Browning , leave shoulder alone. Maybe not size all the way to the shoulder/neck junction , leave a bit of a donut, Then do a try fit as you were intending in post #1 and adjust further if needed. That should give you some numbers for a starting point.

 

[misterc01]

This may be a bit late in the thread, but as a new reloader, I sounds as if you might benefit from a review of the fundamentals of reloading procedures for Long Range Precision ammunition.. You will better understand what those on the forum are suggesting, as well as the why's and tools of reloading: once (or more ) fired brass, neck sizing, shoulder bumping, primer pocket prep, different dies and their purposes, etc., etc. To get a finished precision round, there a LOT of steps involved and various reasons why to use, or not use, which methods tools. etc. I learn something everytime I read these experts posts!

 

[BoomFlop]

I'm well aware of the tools and what they do and why you use them. Thanks though.

I am simply asking how to minimally size 1x brass when the bolt cannot be stripped to perform the Alex Wheeler method.

Steve

 

[BoomFlop]

If I bump shoulders back .002, I'll be back to "new brass".

I think I'm going to full length size to resize the neck and maintain the current shoulder length and perform a seating depth test. From there, I will see if they have grown more and by how much and base my next loading on that data.

Thanks
Steve

 

[25WSM]

Well it seems that you don't understand what your die is doing. You have had great help here. Use it.
First you are never going to get fired brass back to new size. Even a small base die doesn't get you there.
Second it really doesn't matter what size your new brass is. You are measuring fired brass to see how much you need to bump. In your case yes the length you want is what you started with. The numbers don't lie. This is seldom the case. Like I explained to you in post 23 your new length will almost always be longer than factory new brass.
Third you can neck size one piece of brass and fire it till it snugs up and it's going to measure .001 longer than a one time fired brass unless you over pressure it. Just take your 1 time fired brass bump it . 002 to . 003 and your good to go. If your fireforming an Ackley or blowing a shoulder forward with light loads then yes a few shots might make a more accurate measurement. If you try and make it fit less than . 002 from the get go you will probably have to adjust your die after 5 or 6 shots after it work hardens some. 2 things happen after working the brass. One is when fired it doesn't shrink back as much. Two is you get spring back when sized. Both will make your length longer to the shoulder. Annealing will fix this. You didn't mention if you anneal.
Fourth you can just do it how you like and if it works great.
Shep