Need some reloading help

With the Redding competition shell holder set you would take the number 10 which is .010 oversize size your brass with it if you still had a stiff bolt upon closing you would go to the number eight size again if your bolt is stiff go to number six until you finally had your bolt close with little to no resistance and that is the proper shoulder bump for your chamber
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With the Redding competition shell holder set you would take the number 10 which is .010 oversize size your brass with it if you still had a stiff bolt upon closing you would go to the number eight size again if your bolt is stiff go to number six until you finally had your bolt close with little to no resistance and that is the proper shoulder bump for your chamberView attachment 200079
Well let's hope one of them gives me the bump I need. We shall see.
 
Sounds frustrating trying to track down intermittent results.
If you are still trying to eliminate variables in your trouble shooting, I suggest using the stripped bolt method for checking both your seating depth/ distance to the lands and your full length resizing die setting. I quit using the Hornady OAL gauge some time back (except when forced to for my gas guns) because I had a hard time getting repeatability. When I checked it against the stripped bolt method, I was often 0.020-0.030" longer with the Hornady tool. I have also had instances where I bumped the shoulder 0.002 by my comparator but discovered that I still wasn't completely free in the chamber when I used the stripped bolt method. Another 0.002 took care of the issue which could have just been spring back or other factors.
 
Sounds frustrating trying to track down intermittent results.
If you are still trying to eliminate variables in your trouble shooting, I suggest using the stripped bolt method for checking both your seating depth/ distance to the lands and your full length resizing die setting. I quit using the Hornady OAL gauge some time back (except when forced to for my gas guns) because I had a hard time getting repeatability. When I checked it against the stripped bolt method, I was often 0.020-0.030" longer with the Hornady tool. I have also had instances where I bumped the shoulder 0.002 by my comparator but discovered that I still wasn't completely free in the chamber when I used the stripped bolt method. Another 0.002 took care of the issue which could have just been spring back or other factors.
Can you point me to a source for more info on the stripped bolt method? thx
 
Thx, Okanogan. A question, the video says that using Hornady's gauge pushes the bullet into the lands, but doesn't this method do so as well? Also, are you a Washington resident? I've been looking for acreage in NE Washington, I'd love to find some open space where I can shoot farther than is possible near Seattle, where I am. You like it over there?
 
When you try out the method, you'll find that the click on bolt lift is pretty sensitive. 0.002-0.003 difference in seating depth will make the difference on click vs. no click. I think if you try it, you'll find it likely that the measurements with the Hornady tool were long because you were further into the lands. At least in my case, that is how it has been.
Yes, the east side of the cascades is a much different area than the west side of the state. I still have difficulty finding a place to shoot longer range, but I think Wenatchee and Yakima may have extended range opportunities. Except for summer, I can shoot steel in the backyard to 350 yds. Wish it were more.
Yes, I like the area and it is much more second amendment friendly over here. For better or worse, it is hard to find good paying work over here though. I'm retired so it sort of works in my favor.
 
ok to confuse things worse....The two loads I shot yesterday were 3209fps and 3220fps. These were 79 grains and 79.2 grains. 79.2 grains I got a nice ejector mark, with stiff bolt lift, cratered primer and I could feel the load was a stout load. Here is where I am confused. Today to check everything everyone was saying, I resized the brass, picked out all the ones that chambered well in my chamber, retrimmed going .010 shorter than before AND seated the bullets .010 deeper, which in theory now I am .030 off the lands instead of .020. I loaded up a 79 grain and a 79.2 grain load. Shot them both. NO ejector marks. No stiff bolt lift and no cratering. Basically no signs of pressure BUT the velocities matched yesterday. I got 3206 on the first shot and 3219 on the 79.2 grain load. So one of the things i did obviously changed something lol but now I don't know what haha. What I am confused at even more so is that whatever I did must have lowered the pressure and typically lower pressure means lower velocity. I am now wondering if maybe that shot that had the extreme pressure signs yesterday had something wrong with the load. Bullet not seated deep enough, case not trimmed so it pinched the bullet. Time to pull all the bullets and start over.
is it the same lot of brass? Hopefully that are from the same lot and not mixed brass, and are you trimming to minimum trim length by the recommended standard.?
And how reliable do you believe you scales are? Also, you mentioned changing your die setting, this could account for some differences in your findings. Always remember, only make ONE change at a time. Otherwise you'll never know which change affected your test results.
The heavy bolt lift, cratered primer and ejector marks would have me concerned.
Just some things to consider.... my .02 cents
 
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