NEED HELP!!! 700 Bolt Broke Off w/ Live Round (308)

[J E Custom]

Of course smiths hate barrel nuts: no lathe work to install a barrel, lost revenue to the smith.

I build rifles because I enjoy doing it. I am retired and don't want/need another job. (I did that for over 50 years). It would be very easy for me to buy all the parts and assemble them. The only advantage a barrel nut has is ease of assembly. If It was a better system, all of my rifles would have a barrel nut. A well machined and assembled rifle has all the other advantages and will normally out perform one that Is pieced together Specially by someone that doesn't understand that there are many other factors involved in building an accurate rifle, than just head spacing ease.

We all have a choice and some prefer the barrel nut and some don't. Just because I don't, doesn't make the barrel nut system bad, It is just My choice. I can definitely understand why someone that cant do the Smithing would like this system specially if they don't have the finances to hire a good smith or one is not available.

One thing to remember, When things go bad, what it the most frequent response on this site? "Take it to a Gun Smith". The reason is simple, he has the experience and has probably encountered this problem in the past. If he is a good gun smith and he has not, he will probably refer you to someone else rather than tell you something wrong or dangerous. (Like the internet experts).

There is no time limit on making a good Gunsmith, But unfortunately internet experts can be made over night.

J E CUSTOM

 

[David Emerson]

If the lugs are not engaged the firing pin spring should push the bolt back some. You should be able to use a small screwdriver in front of the cocking piece and withdraw the bolt. Your handle probably broke camming the extractor over the rim of the case. But that is just a guess. Either way no matter where it is in rotation the trigger is still holding the firing pin. Maybe the only way is back off your nut and screw the action off. From the side of course

 

[lrcartwright]

I would SLOWLY drill a hole into the loaded round through the gas escape porthole ... then get a can of WD- 40 with the supplied straw and flood the live round . This SHOULD kill the gun powder and primer.... but I would still treat it like it was a live round.

 

[sedancowboy]

I would SLOWLY drill a hole into the loaded round through the gas escape porthole ... then get a can of WD- 40 with the supplied straw and flood the live round . This SHOULD kill the gun powder and primer.... but I would still treat it like it was a live round.

So you would just ruin the barrel and bolt? There is no part of the cartridge exposed through the Gas port.
He has already got the live round out of the gun by unscrewing the barrel.

 

[cohunt]

That's not a smith !!!. Just because he calls himself a smith, doesn't mean he is. check out some of his work, and talk to people who have used him and then make your decision.
Its the customers responsibility to check out who he uses. Both need to get to know each other.
When this happens, It is normally a very good experience and many good friendships are made.

A lot of discussion should take place before any build should start or be agreed on.

J E CUSTOM

ugh, unfortunately a local "well respected" gun smith has ruined my faith in your comments--- I wish it were that easy to vet a smith--- I thought I chose wisely for a very simple smithing task -- to thread 2 barrels and install/time the muzzle brakes provided. I used a well respected local smith and it became a s*** show on my rifles, non concentric threading, poor tooling resulting in rough/poor quality machining, 1 brake was timed upside down and the machining was so rough the brake got stuck on the barrel and it had to be cut shorter to fix the threads, the other brake was timed about 15 degrees off, neither threading job was concentric to the bore

unfortunately the few rotten apples sometimes spoil the whole barrel for a while

 

[jarnold37]

Not 100% sure but just a thought but what if you turned the action and barrel muzzle up and fill it full of solvent or maybe even just water for a couple days? I would think that would break down the powder but I'm not sure if it would disable the primer. I wonder what would be the best option to use?

Probably not cocked if lugs not engaged but treat it as though it could go off. If the barrel was filled with liquid of any kind and the cartridge ignited it would be a terrible explosion.

 

[AlphaDogs]

FWIW every Smith I know hates the barrel nut method and refuse to dick with them and I called a few and they will never let me live this one down.

Of course they do. Now joe SixPack can swap a barrel. Like asking an engine rebuilder about a crate engine.

 

[FEENIX]

Glad to hear all is well.

Ditto!

Its the customers responsibility to check out who he uses. Both need to get to know each other. When this happens, It is normally a very good experience and many good friendships are made.

A lot of discussion should take place before any build should start or be agreed on.

J E CUSTOM

Agreed! Establishing a good working relationship leads to mutual trust and respect. I have been working with my go to gunsmith since 2003.

 

[J E Custom]

ugh, unfortunately a local "well respected" gun smith has ruined my faith in your comments--- I wish it were that easy to vet a smith--- I thought I chose wisely for a very simple smithing task -- to thread 2 barrels and install/time the muzzle brakes provided. I used a well respected local smith and it became a s*** show on my rifles, non concentric threading, poor tooling resulting in rough/poor quality machining, 1 brake was timed upside down and the machining was so rough the brake got stuck on the barrel and it had to be cut shorter to fix the threads, the other brake was timed about 15 degrees off, neither threading job was concentric to the bore

unfortunately the few rotten apples sometimes spoil the whole barrel for a while

Years ago I ran into this before I started doing my own and after visiting his shop, I understood. He was very well known and his business got to busy for him to handle so he hired some college students that had taken a machine class and turned them loose on his clients.

I did not blame them because they were just trying to earn some money, But I did blame him because it was his shop and he was responsible for the quality. Don't know if that is what happened to you but It did me a favor and I decided to learn the craft. (Still a long way to go)

As I said, get to know your smith and his operation and it can be fun and educational (In a positive way).

J E CUSTOM

 

[stbbo]

Did the bolt handle come off just under normal hand pressure? Glad you got issue resolved.

I was lightly tapping with a brass/plastic end hammer. To give an idea the hammer face is about the size of a dime and is comparable to a jewelers hammer in size and weight. Me too!

 

[stbbo]

That's not a smith !!!. Just because he calls himself a smith, doesn't mean he is. check out some of his work, and talk to people who have used him and then make your decision.
Its the customers responsibility to check out who he uses. Both need to get to know each other.
When this happens, It is normally a very good experience and many good friendships are made.

A lot of discussion should take place before any build should start or be agreed on.

J E CUSTOM

Well said

 

[stbbo]

Years ago I ran into this before I started doing my own and after visiting his shop, I understood. He was very well known and his business got to busy for him to handle so he hired some college students that had taken a machine class and turned them loos on his clients.

I did not blame them because they were just trying to earn some money, But I did blame him because it was his shop and he was responsible for the quality. Don't know if that is what happened to you but It did me a favor and I decided to learn the craft. (Still a long way to go)

As I said, get to know your smith and his operation and it can be fun and educational (In a positive way).

J E CUSTOM

I've actually asked several smiths around Texas that I know are very knowledgeable and I want to learn from if they would teach me. I have said I will that I pay for instruction and machine time and wear and tear on equipment and tooling. my only interest is to do work for myself. I don't want to make money or have to do the FFL thing. I have a well paying job I enjoy, but none will let me apprentice or entertain my offer. My background is engineering so learning the craft/trade is very interesting to me from that perspective. I can say the relationships ive made with certain smiths has increased my knowledge, but still have a itch I need to scratch. My retirement plans include going to Trinidad and doing their associates program, but I'm 20 years at minimum from that endeavor.

 

[shortgrass]

stbbo, consider some NRA Summer Gunmithing classes. You'll learn more than how to install a barrel with a barrel nut!

 

[Blackhawk]

All thank you very much. By the grace of God I was able to remove the round and not cause much further damage.

Summary: triple checked what position the bolt was in when it broke off. Luckily the bolt was completely up and looking at how much it had moved to rear vs normal position. based on the posts above and further reading, I believed that the potential for the firing pin to slip and have a discharge was very low. I proceeded to try to take the barrel off (2nd attempt). The first attempt the barrel would not move even with the wrench. Fortunately, on the 2nd attempt it came off with minimal force hand turning. As the last thread engaged the round fell to floor. Upon closer inspection it appeared a small piece (1/3 size of a small rifle primer) of black pot metal (the raw metal showed Granularity) also fell out from the area where the lugs engage. My best idea is that the small piece of metal had caused the lugs to bind as I attempted to clear the chamber. I felt zero pressure or any restriction closing the bolt and with the brass FL sized on a small base die, it falling out as it did, and the mysterious piece of metal my only conclusion is that it was caught in a bind on the upstroke. Interestingly enough the safety lever snapped when I cleared everything and function tested it. I'll file this situation away, but to say you couldn't get a greased BB up my *** was an understatement. The muzzle was pointed in a safe direction and extreme caution was taken every step but things happen. I'm just glad no one was injured and the only damage is the cost to have the bolt tig'd. Thank you very much everyone. I value all the knowledge and insight this forum has to offer. Take care!

I am certainly glad that you were able to safely extract your damaged bolt and have your cartridge simply fall out without your firing pin engaging the primer.
Additionally without causing undue damage to your rifle's receiver, chamber , or barrel.
I think that instead of welding and continually using this bolt I would consider ( despite the additional cost ) the purchasing of a new bolt handle from Remington Arms directly.
This for two reasons listed below,
1) Aesthetics
2) Reliability
All in all a task that you have safely performed.

KUDOS to you!