Need a local smith for truing actions

deweyduck said:
Just read a great thread about truing and all that it takes to do a complete first class job. So can anyone recommend a smith in Atlanta Ga that can do my 7 MM RM?
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What is the make and model of the rifle that you would like to have the work done on? Depending on the manufacturer you may not have the option of selecting someone, and may have to go to someone who is willing to work on your rifle and who is set up to do the work. I like Ruger 77s, it took me quite a few calls before I found a gunsmith who was willing to do the work and who liked working on them. If your rifle is a Remington 700 there's not going to be any difficutly finding a gunsmith at all. Also curious about the reason for the guns smith being local. If you have to ship the rifle, put the rifle in the mail/UPS I'd prefer to send it to someon
deweyduck said:
It's an off the rack Win 70 in 7MM RM. It's not worth spending much money on but it shoots a lot of .75 MOA groups. After working up some Berger loads, it shot a .625 group at 200 yards. Then the very first shot ever in my life at 400 yards, it hit a 1" bullseye using a 9" holdover plus 4" wind drift. Talk about excitement! I had made a holdover cheat sheet taped to my stock which is spot on. The reason I'm considering truing it is the frequent flyers. I've had it about 25 years but the round count is probably under 1000. It would be a great piece to pass on to my kids; I'm 82. Hopefully not before next Saturday. Hehe BTW, the deer in my avatar was a 390 yd shot after the above work; 1 shot, cheat sheet hold on the top hairline, right through the heart, DRT

First and foremost congratulations for still shooting the groups that you have been shooting at the your young age!! I'm 73 and looking forward to 82!! I think that if it were not for getting the fliers, I wouldn't be messin around with a rifle that seems to be shooting pretty good, especially with .625 inch groups at 200 yards. About "I'm considering truing it is the frequent flyers", what does "frequent fliers" mean? I have found that sometimes the "nut" behind the trigger needs some tuning for me:eek:!! Also curious if you have done the "basics" of mounting your scoping system as well as checking out your scope (making sure it is reliable) and checking out the torque on all of the mounting screws and receiver screws. One last question is the rifle glass bedded, barrel floated and pillar bedded; all good stuff to help prevent those frequent fliers. I too understand the importance of handing down a rifle to one of my kids; heirlooms are great!!! And........ "BTW, the deer in my avatar was a 390 yd shot after the above work; 1 shot, cheat sheet hold on the top hairline, right through the heart, DRT!", great shooting
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Deweyduck,
I can recommend Randy Gray in Adairsville,GA. His shop is called Adairsville Armory. He's within 2 hrs of Atlanta and does great work. He's blueprinted 2 actions for me and installed 3 barrels.
 
GLTaylor said:
Deweyduck,
I can recommend Randy Gray in Adairsville,GA. His shop is called Adairsville Armory. He's within 2 hrs of Atlanta and does great work. He's blueprinted 2 actions for me and installed 3 barrels.
Click to expand...
That sounds like a goodun and I appreciate it. so far I've only found one possible in Atlanta so thanks. Did your groups improve after truing?
 
Before trueing the action, if the rifle has a wood stock, make sure the bedding and barrel channel are not putting intermittent pressure points on the barrel as temperature and humidity change. Easy and cheap to fix rather than metal work.
 
As a member noted above, truing the action alone is not likely to improve your grouping consistency. I had the blueprinting done as part of a larger project.

If your concern is that your rifle is not grouping to your satisfaction:

First check your receiver and barrel bedding to remove any inconsistencies or pressure points on the barrel. If your receiver is not pillar bedded or glass bedded, or in a metal bedding block, this would be a first step in improving grouping.

Making sure the barrel is completely free floated is a second step in the pursuit of good grouping. You should be able to slide a dollar bill between the barrel and the forearm from the tip of the forearm back to the receiver. A business card thickness of clearance is even better.

A basic assumption is that the barrel has been deep cleaned all the way down to bare metal. Make sure all carbon and copper is removed. This could take a good while, depending upon how much carbon/copper may be present.

The final step is looking at your barrel with a bore scope. If all pressure points have been relieved and the bore is clean and the rifle still won't shoot, it may be the barrel is gone. I don't know how many rounds are down the barrel or what caliber it is. Normal caliber cartridges (non-magnum) are usually good for at least 1,000 rounds unless you run the barrel hot when shooting.

If I may help further just sing out, I didn't mention the scope and bases need to be checked for tightness, I assume the scope is working properly. Don't know if you use a muzzle brake - if so, it needs to be tight.
Best regards
 
Gradous hands down... He will likely tell you Jason Nixon if you want someone closer to Atlanta. You can't go wrong with either of these guys.
 
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