Need 300 WSM Load data.

[Jack300WSM]

Sorry mine is a Bartlein 1-10"

 

[25WSM]

Coop
I have seen the pressure spiked at different temps with rl26. It does seem to be around 90 degree for me on rl26. I shoot 1000 yard benchrest and controlling verticle is a very important aspect of grouping good. My mid morning of loads shot fantastic but just couldn't keep the tunes for the late afternoon relays. The spikes were to hard to compensate for even though I use an active tuner. I will still shoot rl26 in my hunting rifles. This stuff literally cranks some cartridges up. Craziest one for me is in the 243. 3350 with a108 berger
Barrelnut has it right on the money for your 300wsm. H4350 for me it's 61.1 with a 210 matrix at 2875fps. 34 in barrel heavy gun. Awfull bunch of those 300wsms on the long range firing line. The tune node is so big you tune it once and your pretty much ready to go. Mine stays within 15 fps over a 8 tenth grain window. Yes you can go faster, but if you really wanted faster you can just do a 300 rum.
Shep

 

[Wedgy]

Coop
I will still shoot rl26 in my hunting rifles. This stuff literally cranks some cartridges up. Craziest one for me is in the 243. 3350 with a108 berger
Shep

Yes, RL26 is magic dust in the .243 !!

 

[rsnell]

Do you have a reloading manual? If not, you need several. Nosler, Hodgdon, and Accurate are available on line.

 

[TexSavage]

Is that a 10 twist?

Yes 1 in 10 RH

 

[Jack300WSM]

I have accumulated a few over the years. Just wondering based on it being a Sierra product and their own data being 2g less for my powder. I've always trusted Sierra info but not showing any signs of this being a hot load in my setup

 

[Wedgy]

The Berger manual is VERY conservative, which is not a bad thing but you may burn a little more products working up, better safe than sorry.

 

[25WSM]

The books are suggested loads. Every rifle chamber and barrel and brass and powder lot and bullets are going to have tolerances. These things in combination with barrel wear and temperature and seating depth and primer are all so many variables the books can't get it all perfect. That's why when you look in 6 books at the same load you have 6 different weights listed. I always use the age old adage that you start at a safe level and work up. When you see the first sign of pressure you stop and back up. I know guys will say all kinds of things about what pressure is good ones or bad ones. Any pressure sign is pressure. Period. I'm not talking about a crater on a primer that is 10thou to loose firing pin although if it closed metal back their your pushing some pressure. Guys are talking that their bolt lift is not sticky. Primers are slightly flat. Ejector marks are normal on soft Norma brass. These guys claim 200 fps faster than advertised and none of these signs but the primer falls out after 2 shots. They are getting pressure and choosing one over the other to keep pushing. Custom actions that are timed perfect and lubed properly typically won't have hard bolt lift until it's lights out on the primer falling out. People say Hornady and Norma have soft brass. But it passes their spec and if you have deep ejector marks you are probably over pressure. My Creed is supposed to go 2700 fps, in my 29 inch tube it goes 2850 with no pressure and I get 12 shots per brass. My rifle will shoot a 147eldm 3050 and not blow a primer or have hard bolt lift with rl26. But you get that one shot and the brass is toast. I can't afford to run my guns that way. I will run a load over book in a second if I haven't seen any signs of pressure getting to that point. So don't worry about a little jump over book if you are reading all the signs. By the way my Creed has a . 275 thou freebore that clears a lot of room for powder. Nice thing about a long action on a 300wsm is you can throat the heck out of it and they love it. There are all kinds of ways to get false positive pressure so you need to take this into account also. Go have some fun.
Shep