If all your case necks have the same wall thickness within .001", I'd have your full length sizing die's neck honed out to .002" smaller than a loaded round's neck diameter. Some die company charges for doing this are way less than 20 bucks.
I don't like the bushing full length sizing dies as they don't size the case neck all the way back to the shoulder but instead stop short 1/16 to 1/32 inch. Their makers claim that's done so the unsized portion of the case neck helps align it in the chamber neck. That's not reality in my opinion; that part of the case is smaller in diameter than the chamber neck therefore no way does it help center the case neck; it's the case shoulder in the chamber shoulder that does that. And their bushings are a bit loose in the die so they can get off center from the case body axis when the neck's sized. However, bushing dies from RCBS and Redding are probably the best ones out there commercially; Sierra uses Redding ones on their cases they'er made for and get great results.
Then decap fired cases separately in another die and toss that die's expander ball someplace.[/QUOTE]
Better yet, forego the die completely and get a single purpose decapper die. RCBS as well as Lyman have one and they aren't much cost wise plus, because they are dedicated decappers, the decap pin/shaft is larger in diameter and stronger-less probe to breakage, I've never broke either the Lyman or the RCBS. The Lyman has a bit bigger bore diameter. The RCBS will drag a tiny bit on a 338-416 case. The Lyman clears the case entirely. The RCBS uses a ballless (that sounds terrible
) shaft of larger than normal diameter affixed in the normal RCBS (threaded with stop nuts and headed decapping pin) way and the Lyman uses a brazed in cap, shaft with decapping pin.
I like them because I want to decap, then clean then size in that order.
As long as we are discussing dies, I want to bring up a hint of sorts...
On RCBS dies, the expander ball decapping pin collet sometimes appears to be off center when you rotate the die body and observe the end of the expander ball rod. Whats occuring is the the slop in the threaded rod allows the jam nut to lock the shaft slightly offcenter. Thats easily fixed by adding a ground and case hardened flat washer between the jam nut and the top knurled knob before tightening the jam nut. The washer spreads out the locking force and allows the expander ball/shaft to center in the bore....
See, that N/S die has no tangible use anymore....lol