My first custom chamber: 300 Ultra X! (Creedmoor was taken)

[MNbogboy]

https://bordenrifles.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/firing_pin_bush.pdf
Another link may help. I haven't done it either but am seriously considering trying a couple of Savage heads in the parts bin.

On the other hand, hopefully a powder change will get your pressures down where you want.
How did they extract? The brass where the "straight section" meets the pressure cup doesn't look bad...cant notice a major swell. Did the case head swell at any measurable amount close to the extractor groove? Primer pockets loosen much?
Hoping this works out for you whether or not it shows much improvement over the RUM. The "fun" and learning experience are what's really important. What the heck if there is enough shank left you can always dial it down to a WSM...

 

[Mram10us]

I don't like doing it, HATE doing bolt work!!!

I watched that one but he doesn't show how. Just explains what it does

 

[bigngreen]

The link above to Bordens method is what I've done, again I HATE doing them so I just send them to Greg or fit a PTG, I don't think I'd have another Rem without having the bolt bushed honestly, most factory rifles benefit from it really!!

 

[MNbogboy]

Great to hear from the guys with experience rather than the naysayers. We'd still be using the 30-30 if others stopped experimenting

Nobody is ever to old to learn. Bought my first wildcat barrel from Mcgowen (rip) when he still made barrels in Illinois, that was in early 70s. A 6mm Krag.
Went through a 257 Bob Ackley phase, moved on to 6.5/257 Bob Ackley (still have one). This is my latest I started last month. A 7mm/6.5/284 short (1.750 long brass). The front shoulder angle & diameter match 7mm rem mag. Essentially the front portion of 7mm mag. 51 gr. H2O case capacity (less than 7mm-08). Not really a "wildcat" but more of a pussycat. Shoots really sweet but doing a little fighting with load development between blizzards and below zero weather. No 7mm with similar capacity so it's been winging it with powder & bullet choice. I don't need this cartridge nor probably anybody but you sometimes do things just because you can.

 

[can1010]

Nobody is ever to old to learn. Bought my first wildcat barrel from Mcgowen (rip) when he still made barrels in Illinois, that was in early 70s. A 6mm Krag.
Went through a 257 Bob Ackley phase, moved on to 6.5/257 Bob Ackley (still have one). This is my latest I started last month. A 7mm/6.5/284 short (1.750 long brass). The front shoulder angle & diameter match 7mm rem mag. Essentially the front portion of 7mm mag. 51 gr. H2O case capacity (less than 7mm-08). Not really a "wildcat" but more of a pussycat. Shoots really sweet but doing a little fighting with load development between blizzards and below zero weather. No 7mm with similar capacity so it's been winging it with powder & bullet choice. I don't need this cartridge nor probably anybody but you sometimes do things just because you can.
View attachment 165899

nice idea. simple, not to hard to make, quality brass, low recoil, looks like with the right load and bullet it will make a nice shooter that wont break the bank if your shooting all day

 

[Don A Parsons]

I have a custom PTG bolt in my one rifle and a B Galloway worked over bolt in my other,,, my other factory Remington has the factory bolt...

So my question is,,, which of the 3 rifles shoot 1/4" or 1" MOA on good,,, and not so good days,,, actually all 3 of them do

Galloway spins the firing pin and removes the slop in them by building up to head """and""" making sure that the firing pin is dead straight,,, then working them down,,, he dose the same thing with the Outter bolt shank so it stays true in the action,,, its an old bench rest bolt work over trick...

The idea behind a tight / snug fitting bolt is the trigger release is much more constant since the heel of the bolt dosen't have up-ward or side jump when the trigger is pulled...

That way we can set the release shear at its lowest point of a safe hold

Just enough,,, but not to much... Its something to play with,,, """not recommended for those that don't understand how the system works on different brands of triggers and firing pin releases..."""

I'm strictly a Remington and after market trigger dude that follows my leeds advice... He has many years at this stuff...

One thing I do like about the PTG custom bolt is the snug fit and the super small pin-hole,,, it works hand and hand for my Palma Brass since I use small primers for it,,, way less flow back of the primer material into the bolt hole... Ha

 

[Mram10us]

https://bordenrifles.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/firing_pin_bush.pdf
Another link may help. I haven't done it either but am seriously considering trying a couple of Savage heads in the parts bin.

On the other hand, hopefully a powder change will get your pressures down where you want.
How did they extract? The brass where the "straight section" meets the pressure cup doesn't look bad...cant notice a major swell. Did the case head swell at any measurable amount close to the extractor groove? Primer pockets loosen much?
Hoping this works out for you whether or not it shows much improvement over the RUM. The "fun" and learning experience are what's really important. What the heck if there is enough shank left you can always dial it down to a WSM...

Extraction was normal. Primer pockets are normal. Reloaded the rounds from the hot loads before and pockets took the same amount of pressure from the priming tool as the others. Didn't notice a swell in the case head. Thanks for the good luck I loaded some h1000 again because of the accuracy, but will try the r33 as well for the slower burn. Plenty of shank left for a wsm, like you suggest

 

[Mram10us]

Took it out again today. A couple findings.
1. hornady brass separates easily while fireforming. Bertram, nosler and norma were fine
2. With the flat, every load charge felt a bit tight on extraction compared to normal.
3. R33 charge only got to 98 before feeling a bit tight on extraction and left pressure marks
4. 97gr r33 with 230 otm looks to be incredible for accuracy and on a node. No chrono
5. 85.7gr h1000 shot well also.
6. Reduced loads with 27gr trail boss and a 165 seem a bit hot for fireforming. I'll try 25gr next time.
More to come.

 

[Mram10us]

Got busy working and will get out this week.
List of todos:
1. remove barrel and polish chamber. I'm guessing that flat is showing false pressure signs since primers aren't flattening
2. Reduce headspace another .002". Some of my virgin brass isn't tight enough when fireforming
3. Shoot ladder with 5010 powder since one of you posted try slower powders. N570 and 5010 should check that box
4. Load up some 250 atips and see how they shoot from this 1:10 twist at 3000msl

 

[SENAL]

Got busy working and will get out this week.
List of todos:
1. remove barrel and polish chamber. I'm guessing that flat is showing false pressure signs since primers aren't flattening
2. Reduce headspace another .002". Some of my virgin brass isn't tight enough when fireforming
3. Shoot ladder with 5010 powder since one of you posted try slower powders. N570 and 5010 should check that box
4. Load up some 250 atips and see how they shoot from this 1:10 twist at 3000msl

You're a sick, sick, man using the WSM reamer and die in such a perverse way..... lol

kidding I LOVE the whole concept. That's some great inventing. Had to go back and catch up on where you started. We are an R33 lover in some calibers. Can't wait to see where this all lands. Best of luck.

 

[Mram10us]

If this project doesn't work, I'll cut the chamber down and rename it "30 Nosler X!!"

 

[SENAL]

Thought we did some off the wall stuff for WSM. It never had crossed my mind to morph the use off other tools using more than your suppose to, your reamer usage and then partially using a die.

 

[Mram10us]

Thought we did some off the wall stuff for WSM. It never had crossed my mind to morph the use off other tools using more than your suppose to, your reamer usage and then partially using a die.

I get bored
Trying to figure out the kinks will take you guys when I get that far. Looking forward to the guys that use this method for some really cool stuff that I'm not smart enough to figure out.

 

[Mram10us]

https://bordenrifles.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/firing_pin_bush.pdf
Another link may help. I haven't done it either but am seriously considering trying a couple of Savage heads in the parts bin.

On the other hand, hopefully a powder change will get your pressures down where you want.
How did they extract? The brass where the "straight section" meets the pressure cup doesn't look bad...cant notice a major swell. Did the case head swell at any measurable amount close to the extractor groove? Primer pockets loosen much?
Hoping this works out for you whether or not it shows much improvement over the RUM. The "fun" and learning experience are what's really important. What the heck if there is enough shank left you can always dial it down to a WSM...

Sorry, just realized I never responded. Case head seems to be normal, primer pockets didn't loosen at all. I really think the pressure signs are false due to the flat, based on primers not flattening and speeds.