Torx or spline drive. Either works. The bits with a FAT Wrench fit. Actually, that's what you should retorque them with. I was going to dress the base plates if I detected any rock but I didn't, yours may be different, you'll have to hand fit it and see...... The fixing screws don't go in the receiver all that far so it's imperative to actually pay attention to the tightening torque. Kentucky torquing will probably strip the threads and that won't be a good thing.....
I also removed and shortened the carriage bolts used to secure the cheekpiece to the stock and then canned them entirely and replaced them with marine grade stainless bolts of the correct length plus I canned the stock knobs in favor of smooth aluminum knobs with steel threaded inserts.
The stock bolts are too long and stick through the tightening knobs when the cheekpiece is tightened down. They stick out far enough to snag on clothing if you shoulder carry. Some things succumb to top quality when the price point is reasonable, the bolts are one. They (bolts) look like something from Home Depot.
I have a Harris 2 axis bipod on mine that I borrow from one of my match rifles. I'll most likely shoot this rifle prone (most of the time) with the forestock resting on something convenient, like a backpack or a wadded up towel...
Tis a nice rifle although heavy and the bipod makes it heavier and the scope adds to the weight too. At least it's not a BA at 23 pounds or a Barrett.
Everything else about the rifle is top shelf (IMO) considering the price of a grand OTD.
I'm into black tight wrinkle finish with an engine turned bolt. The firearm looks as my wife aptly said.......'Industrial'.
As a postscript....
Loose the funky sticker on the cheekpiece, it looks tacky. When I picked up the rifle, I peeled it off and stuck it to the countertop at the gun shop....
