muzzle brake recomendations

[bman73]

Still waiting for my 110ba to show up and the wait was killing me so I loaded up some rounds for the 358 Norma, grabbed the 22 and took the step kids out to the range for the afternoon. I used to have a muzzle brake on it but it was a poorly designed one and I couldn't group or hit the broadside of a barn with it. Took the brake off and cut the threads off it to screw back onto the end of the barrel to save the threads and back to cloverleafs at 100 yrds and consistently hitting a 4"x4" plate at 200. God that puts a smile on my face to hear that smack . Problem is I am now starting to flinch after 5 or so shots and am reminded of why I had put a brake on it to begin with. Any one have any recomendations on a PROPERLY designed brake that I can put on this gun or a recomendation on who to talk to about one. Preferably a Canadian one as getting gun stuff across the border seems to take a lot longer than it should in my opinion. Thanks in advance for any suggestions

 

[SidTheKidd]

Muscle Brake! They work very well. My Buddy has one on his 338 EDGE.

 

[Ernie]

Don't have any Canadian connections, but to add to the first suggestion:
Holland's Radial, Kirby's PainKiller, and Shawn's brake

 

[liltank]

I have used a rifle with Kirby's pain killer on it. It is a 338 Lapua that recoils less than my 308 Winny.

Tank

 

[J E Custom]

Any of the above mentioned brakes are good !

The trick is to have it installed by a competent gun smith .

An improperly installed brake of any kind may have a major effect on accuracy, and it sounds
like this is what you had.

I have seen some of the best brakes that were installed wrong kill the accuracy of a good rifle,
and after re-cutting the barrel threads and truing the bore of the brake do a complete turn around
in accuracy.

The worst case was where a person (I won't call him a smith for a good reason) used a die nut
to cut the the barrel threads (The brakes are normally threaded from the maker of the break)
and the bullet was striking the break.

The difference in breaks is there effectiveness to reduce recoil and muzzle climb. one is not
any more accurate than the other if installed correctly, just more or less effective.

J E CUSTOM

 

[bman73]

Any of the above mentioned brakes are good !

The trick is to have it installed by a competent gun smith .

An improperly installed brake of any kind may have a major effect on accuracy, and it sounds
like this is what you had.

I have seen some of the best brakes that were installed wrong kill the accuracy of a good rifle,
and after re-cutting the barrel threads and truing the bore of the brake do a complete turn around
in accuracy.

The worst case was where a person (I won't call him a smith for a good reason) used a die nut
to cut the the barrel threads (The brakes are normally threaded from the maker of the break)
and the bullet was striking the break.

The difference in breaks is there effectiveness to reduce recoil and muzzle climb. one is not
any more accurate than the other if installed correctly, just more or less effective.

J E CUSTOM

The issue I had with mine was 3 different diameters along the length of the brake itself and poor port design, the bullet was striking the brake just as it was exiting. After I had paid for it I was informed by the gunsmith who built it that I was his first customer to try that experimental and three after me all had problems as well. And I quote "guess that design didn't work worth a sh%^ huh?" No mention of replacing it or giving my money back, hence the reason why I'm on here looking for a new one

 

[fj40mojo]

Here is contact info for a local guy that makes a fantastic brake.

email is [email protected] phone 208 587 8993

His name is Ross,

Here is a vid of one of his test.

 

[J E Custom]

Here is contact info for a local guy that makes a fantastic brake.

email is [email protected] phone 208 587 8993

His name is Ross,

Here is a vid of one of his test.

YouTube - 375-JRS Test.mpg

YouTube - 338 EDGE.mpg

I have used his brakes and they are good ones.

He is a good one to do buisness with also.

In reference to your post on striking the brake, It must not have had a large enough hole (Bullet
Dia + .020 thousandths)Some have tried less and have had trouble with accuracy because of the
pressure wave created buy the bullet having an effect on it.

The bullet should be totally clear of the break before it starts to work with no effect on it.

I have tried boring the hole starting at .005 and going larger while testing and found no
improvement in recoil reduction and only found an increase in recoil starting at .030 overbore.

Accuracy was impaired (All tho not much) with the smaller bore on the brake. .015 to .025 seems
to be an optumum diameter for the brakes and most of the manufactures of brakes recomend
Bullet diameter + .020.

I personally don't like brakes on most rifles but a lot of people do, so in order to install them
correctly I wanted to understand cause and effects of brakes, Hence the testing.

So even if it was a poor design it shouldn't have effected the accuracy if installed properly IMO.

Also the "Smith" should not try out something new on one of his client's rifles before all testing
is done.

J E CUSTOM

 

[bman73]

I have used his brakes and they are good ones.

He is a good one to do buisness with also.

In reference to your post on striking the brake, It must not have had a large enough hole (Bullet
Dia + .020 thousandths)Some have tried less and have had trouble with accuracy because of the
pressure wave created buy the bullet having an effect on it.

The bullet should be totally clear of the break before it starts to work with no effect on it.

I have tried boring the hole starting at .005 and going larger while testing and found no
improvement in recoil reduction and only found an increase in recoil starting at .030 overbore.

Accuracy was impaired (All tho not much) with the smaller bore on the brake. .015 to .025 seems
to be an optumum diameter for the brakes and most of the manufactures of brakes recomend
Bullet diameter + .020.

I personally don't like brakes on most rifles but a lot of people do, so in order to install them
correctly I wanted to understand cause and effects of brakes, Hence the testing.

So even if it was a poor design it shouldn't have effected the accuracy if installed properly IMO.

Also the "Smith" should not try out something new on one of his client's rifles before all testing
is done.

J E CUSTOM

Not too sure of the physics behind it but the brake I had started out at .363 for 1/4" then went to .483 for 1", this is the area that the ports were drilled into, then closed back up to .380 for the last 1/2". I'm unsure as to why it was stiking but I had blamed it on the fact that the round had to try to pass through that many different diameters and still remain stable and straight. If I am wrong in this and someone can explain it to me feel free to, I am far from all knowing and more than willing to try to learn or understand new things. I appreciate all the input and am considering most of the options placed here, just going to have to deal with the customs issue I guess as I havn't been pointed in the direction of any Canadian sellers, Oh well guess that's the way it goes sometimes. Once again thanks for tthe input to all and feel free to add any that may been missed

 

[budlight]

Flinching is a mind thing. I'm from time before brakes. I was given a 26 inch ruger number 1 .458 win mag 25 years ago with all the reloading stuff and hundred of 510 solids and round noses for Safari use.

I was given the gun because the owner said it kicked his Ars. To me it was just a fun gun of wonder. About all I can take is 20 rounds in one day.

But it cured my fear of any rifle caliber. I don't even flinch on wimpy guns with only 4000 foot pounds.