Muzzle brake question

[kyron]

Bigngreen,

I understand and yes the tools I am looking at will run me nearly $200. Which is quite a bit more than threading a barrel. But a little less than threading two.

I have very much enjoyed exploring the aspects of shooting that I have ventured into so far. trying new things is the only way to grow. If I try it and make a enormous mess out of it I will call it a learning experience and pay a real smith to cut off my amateur mess and do it right.

I did look at some of the clamp on brakes and the problem I found with those was many of them are meant to be an even more permanent installation than a thread on brake. That would not work with shooting F-class at all. And, they are just ugly.


Steve,

Lol. You certainly know how to make a point. The recoil mitigation is not the biggest thing I'm looking for anyway. The STW certainly does have some kick but I find it bearable. Muzzle control is the primary thing i am after. The small painkiller looks like it would be good for that as well as the recoil.

Anyway, I am just on the planning phase of this. Not going to be buying anything till January. So I'll mull it over a bit.

Thanks again to all for the advice.

 

[FEENIX]

I did look at some of the clamp on brakes and the problem I found with those was many of them are meant to be an even more permanent installation than a thread on brake. That would not work with shooting F-class at all. And, they are just ugly.

The two brakes I was primarily looking at were SJC Titan and the JP recoil eliminator. Both have excellent reviews and are frequently used in various competitions. And both are only about $100.

The JP Enterprise recoil eliminator you're considering is not exactly the prettiest gal on the block either, as my friend calls it "it's fugly but effective";gun) he's got it on his .300 RUM (installed by a competent gunsmith) and very pleased with it.

Good luck!

 

[RockyMtnMT]

Bigngreen,

I understand and yes the tools I am looking at will run me nearly $200. Which is quite a bit more than threading a barrel. But a little less than threading two.

I have very much enjoyed exploring the aspects of shooting that I have ventured into so far. trying new things is the only way to grow. If I try it and make a enormous mess out of it I will call it a learning experience and pay a real smith to cut off my amateur mess and do it right.

I did look at some of the clamp on brakes and the problem I found with those was many of them are meant to be an even more permanent installation than a thread on brake. That would not work with shooting F-class at all. And, they are just ugly.


Steve,

Lol. You certainly know how to make a point. The recoil mitigation is not the biggest thing I'm looking for anyway. The STW certainly does have some kick but I find it bearable. Muzzle control is the primary thing i am after. The small painkiller looks like it would be good for that as well as the recoil.

Anyway, I am just on the planning phase of this. Not going to be buying anything till January. So I'll mull it over a bit.

Thanks again to all for the advice.

Sorry if I came on too strong. I was pretty disappointed when what I thought was going to be great product did not work well and in the end I had to pay twice for what I should have done the first time. Just don't want anyone else to have the same problem.

Steve

 

[shortgrass]

engineer,

Yes I am sure. they only offer 5/8-24 threads with a .350 exit hole. And they are not alone in that. I have done some more looking and that is near universal. JP does offer the small exit hole with 5/8-28 threads.

The problem with that is I want to thread the barrel myself and don't have lathe. While I can easily find a die to cut 5/8-28 threads, a thread alignment tool is another subject entirely.

However I have also in doing some more research found that there seems to be a fair bit of agreement that the exit hole of the brake being that much larger than the bore of the rifle makes not zero difference but very close to it.

Would you guys agree with that or is my research incomplete?

Offer a muzzle brake with 5/8-24 threads, with a smaller than .30 cal. exit hole, and some do-it-yourselfer, who hasn't 'thought it through', will screw it onto their AR 10 and try to squeeze a .308 bullet through an exit hole that is smaller than .30 caliber with dramatic results. I've had rifles come into my shop with barrels that were cut with a die, by hand with/without the "alinement tool" without the use of a lathe. Why would anyone stick something inside of the muzzle of a barrel that might damage the rifling? I've even seen one that was threaded with a Rigid 1/8" pipe die and ratchet. It's one of the best ways I can think of to need to shorten your barrel by an inch or so. There's no substitute for lathe cutting threads for a muzzle brake. Now, you've had two working gunsmiths tell you "this is not a good idea".

 

[Hired Gun]

This will be entertaining.

 

[engineer40]

I have very much enjoyed exploring the aspects of shooting that I have ventured into so far. trying new things is the only way to grow. If I try it and make a enormous mess out of it I will call it a learning experience and pay a real smith to cut off my amateur mess and do it right.

I did look at some of the clamp on brakes and the problem I found with those was many of them are meant to be an even more permanent installation than a thread on brake. That would not work with shooting F-class at all. And, they are just ugly.

Muzzle control is the primary thing i am after.

I have threaded a few barrels with hand tools. 2 turned out great and 1 not quite as great. The reason is I used the guide for a 308 caliber on a 312 barrel. I thought it would be close enough. But it was canted just a tad bit and the bullet nicked the end of the brake. I had to dremel the exit hole just a tad. It was upsetting, but did not hurt accuracy.

I am firmly against clamp on brakes. There might be some exceptions, but I cannot think of any right now. I followed the instructions to the letter. They want you to use Loctite between the barrel and the brake. That's where the clamp on brakes fall apart. That Loctite gets baked on so hard, it will never come off without also removing the barrel finish. I had this happen on 2 rifles. I tried everything the Internet community stated would take off the baked on Loctite, no help. I tried a heat gun. All sorts of things. You can get the Loctite off the barrel, but the barrel finish will come off also. Not worth it in my opinion.

The JP Recoil Eliminator is rated as one of the best for muzzle control. Good decision.

If you are still having problems with finding the correct thread pitch and exit hole combo, Ross Schuler will make you one per your specs for $35 and his brakes work fantastic. Included in that price he will also taper the brake to your barrel outside diameter. That also includes shipping. I had the brakes I ordered from him at my door in about a week, so very fast turn around. Just Google his name and you'll find his contact details. Here is a link to what they look like:

http://www.longrangehunting.com/for...d-muzzle-brake-175835/index4.html#post1243356

Hope this helps!

 

[kyron]

I will definitely put Ross on my list of people to contact.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[FEENIX]

I will definitely put Ross on my list of people to contact.

Thanks again everyone.

Ross's buddy Nathan can do the same for you with more choices Home Page.

 

[Danny1788]

+1 for Nathan at muzzlebrakesandmore.com hes brakes are very effective. I have installed a few and they are awesome.

 

[upacreek]

What does Nathan go by on the forum? If it's the same guy I think it is he is out of Boise.

 

[jimbires]

What does Nathan go by on the forum? If it's the same guy I think it is he is out of Boise.

his forum name is , Idaho CDT or Idaho CTD

I'm pretty sure he is in Boise . I have 2 of his brakes and couldn't be happier .

 

[upacreek]

I have 3 of his breaks. He made a forward facing port for my .243 and my 10 yr old loves it! Headed out tonight to find a deer for him. My 12yr old just shot an elk two weeks ago with my 7wsm which had a break by Nathan. It's a light gun and the break works awesome! Last year I had both my kids and wife shooting my 7RM repeatedly at 600yards with his break and nobody was worried about recoil. Just printing holes. I am very satisfied with the brakes Nathan makes.

 

[Danny1788]

This is his mini beast 3 port turned down to .800 and tapered to .670 #4 brux barrel.