MPBR opinions

[LanceK]

What are your thoughts on sighting in a rifle for MPBR for someone like me who is new to long range hunting? I don't yet have the skills to shoot past that range, and everything would have to be just right for me to confidently get close, so I was thinking it would be a good way for me to simplify things till I can practice enough at long range to extend my reach. My hunting rifle is a savage.243 I can get it to shoot consistent .7 moa 5 shot groups, so the gun is more capable than I am.

 

[Orange Dust]

I have used Bob Hagel's method for 40 years. Works out with most any rifle. 3" HIGH AT 100yds. This will give you max point blank range for about anything for big game. With most magnums you can hold center to about 350, and be close enough for a quick shot at 400, 500, and 600 by adding 2 min to each and holding center. With a 243 this will get you to the same 350 or so by holding center and is about as far as you should shoot at big game with it. Coyotes 1-1\2 is about high as you can go. But you can kill them further than mpbr.

 

[Capt RB]

Just shoot more. Take your 22 to the range and either get a good bdc reticle or a 6-10swfa. This will teach you how to dial/hold and more importantly accommodate the wind's wishes. I shoot my model 60 to 300yds so it's not like you need to go out and buy a voodoo or anschutz. Most 22's will shoot well you just need to shoot a bunch of ammo to find out what it wants. Marlin's microgroove barrel wants copper clad bullets. If I feed it federal match lead it's a grapefruit sized group at 100 yds. If I shoot remington yellow jacket 40grn truncated jacketed bullets it's 1-1.25 moa for a 50 shot group. CCI mini mag is tighter at 100 but not as good at distance. A 22 is about the best practice you are going to get if you don't have more yardage available. Even 100 yds will teach you alot. Just the ammo process is critical to being successful.

 

[257Tony]

Not a big fan of mpbr. That system seems to put most rifle 4" high at around 150 yards, which happens to be a pretty common shot distance. I prefer a 200 yard zero, which allows for dead hold out about 250. Dial or use holdover marks for anything farther than that.

 

[The Oregonian]

Not a big fan of mpbr. That system seems to put most rifle 4" high at around 150 yards, which happens to be a pretty common shot distance. I prefer a 200 yard zero, which allows for dead hold out about 250. Dial or use holdover marks for anything farther than that.

Agree...and 200 zero puts most guns about 1" high at 100.

 

[RockyMtnMT]

I like the mpbr. Takes the thought out of what to hold until you are past your max range. Then at that point the animal is usually far enough away that you are undetected and have more time to make calculations.

To set your mpbr use JBM or what ever calculator. Zero your rifle at what ever range you like. I use 200y. Zero your turrets there. Enter all the pertinent info into JBM. I use a 5" radius but you can change that to smaller if your intended game is smaller. Once calculated it will tell you what to dial your scope to at mpbr for our kill radius. Leave the scope dialed to this spot but do not re-zero the turret. Your zero is still the range that you physically zeroed at, you are just dialed to the mpbr. Now you can have your drop chart on your rifle or your electronic device to calculate long shots. So lets say you are dialed up 1.75moa for mpbr and you are going to make a 680y shot that requires 4.8moa correction from zero. Now you just continue dialing your scope the rest of the way to 4.75moa up. You can always dial back to zero on the turret, taking you back to the range that you actually set your zero, 100, 200 etc.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[Orange Dust]

When using mpbr you learn where to hold on close shots when you need more precision. On big game midrange doesn't matter really it is still a killing shot. The 3" high is a little lower than mpbr listed in the reloading manuals. Using this method you can hold center to at least 350 and kill the animal. This is what the OP was asking, and we all used this method before rangefinder. the old way was if you were shooting a magnum and if you could see legs moving when an animal was walking without magnification he was close enough. Worked well, and could consistently kill deer to about 400 with a flat shooting magnum. Still use it today, and have figured in my ballistics program. Point and shoot if under 400. Often you dont have much time close a mb d it's just point and shoot. YMMV, but it is close enough to kill the animal every time. Precision becomes necessary when you are shooting further than this and the bullet has bled off a lot of energy and wound channels are smaller. With magnums this always works. With a little gun you are starting out with less energy and smaller wound channels and have to learn to hold below center at midrange. If the animal is a little small pretty easy to hit in never never land between the lungs and spine at around 175 if you hold center, you have to hold lower 1/3 to hit center. With a magnum it makes absolutely no difference.

 

[Orange Dust]

I like the mpbr. Takes the thought out of what to hold until you are past your max range. Then at that point the animal is usually far enough away that you are undetected and have more time to make calculations.

To set your mpbr use JBM or what ever calculator. Zero your rifle at what ever range you like. I use 200y. Zero your turrets there. Enter all the pertinent info into JBM. I use a 5" radius but you can change that to smaller if your intended game is smaller. Once calculated it will tell you what to dial your scope to at mpbr for our kill radius. Leave the scope dialed to this spot but do not re-zero the turret. Your zero is still the range that you physically zeroed at, you are just dialed to the mpbr. Now you can have your drop chart on your rifle or your electronic device to calculate long shots. So lets say you are dialed up 1.75moa for mpbr and you are going to make a 680y shot that requires 4.8moa correction from zero. Now you just continue dialing your scope the rest of the way to 4.75moa up. You can always dial back to zero on the turret, taking you back to the range that you actually set your zero, 100, 200 etc.

Hope that makes sense.

Better explanation than mine of the same thing. Easy to learn, effective, hard to explain in text.

 

[Orange Dust]

The only advantage of mpbr is if inside 400 I will have him dead by the time you get the range. Usually doesn't matter, but sometimes it is the difference between success and a story. Just sayin'.

 

[LanceK]

Thanks for all the great responses. With my current set up, I can't "dial" unless I pull the cap off and get the quarter out of my pocket. As far as 22 practice, I have been working with my cz 452 which shoots very well. I'll keep learning and work out a system that works good for me. Again thanks for the ideas.

 

[Capt RB]

I like the mpbr. Takes the thought out of what to hold until you are past your max range. Then at that point the animal is usually far enough away that you are undetected and have more time to make calculations.

To set your mpbr use JBM or what ever calculator. Zero your rifle at what ever range you like. I use 200y. Zero your turrets there. Enter all the pertinent info into JBM. I use a 5" radius but you can change that to smaller if your intended game is smaller. Once calculated it will tell you what to dial your scope to at mpbr for our kill radius. Leave the scope dialed to this spot but do not re-zero the turret. Your zero is still the range that you physically zeroed at, you are just dialed to the mpbr. Now you can have your drop chart on your rifle or your electronic device to calculate long shots. So lets say you are dialed up 1.75moa for mpbr and you are going to make a 680y shot that requires 4.8moa correction from zero. Now you just continue dialing your scope the rest of the way to 4.75moa up. You can always dial back to zero on the turret, taking you back to the range that you actually set your zero, 100, 200 etc.

Hope that makes sense.

What kind of lazer beam are you shooting to have 4.8 moa of up at 680 with a 200yd zero?

 

[el matador]

What kind of lazer beam are you shooting to have 4.8 moa of up at 680 with a 200yd zero?

Laser beams actually don't have any drop at 680 yards

I prefer the 200 yard zero because it keeps me within roughly 2" at any distance I can reasonably estimate without tools. That distance being about 200 yards and under. For longer shots I'm going to range it and its easy to make an adjustment if needed. I see no benefit to purposefully setting up my rifle to miss my point of aim by 3-4". If you can accurately estimate ranges to +/- 15 yards out to 350 then MPBR might be a better option for you.

 

[hunter67wa]

I have used MPBR since I started hunting and still use it today even on scopes I can dial. The reason is I don't have to think about things until my rifle drops below three inches. I zero at 100 depending on what my 3 inches high will be. Most of the time if the rifle is 2800fps or lower around 3 inches if the velocity is higher 2.5 at 100 yards. Its not hard to figure. I just don't want to be over 3 inches high at which is usually around 150 to 175 and I will take what it gives me at 3 inches low which is usually around 275-325.

Don't forget to shoot those distances to confirm.

 

[el matador]

The only advantage of mpbr is if inside 400 I will have him dead by the time you get the range. Usually doesn't matter, but sometimes it is the difference between success and a story. Just sayin'.

And what if you guess he's at 350 but in reality its 400? You'll have him missed or wounded about the same time I'm getting an accurate range.