most accurate out of the box factory rifle?

I suggest you start reading the "road tests" in Rifle and Gun Tests to see just how many of these $5000 or more rifles won't even shoot MOA groups.

As for shooting F class against a Marlin ...... Perhaps it's because Marlin does not make an F class gun, either in cartridge or configuration like Savage does. Seems to me the Savage team does very well shooting rifles that retail well under 2 grand.

I would happily put the new Marlin X7VH up against any similar rifle that costs twice as much and clean their clock. Could also take that action, put on one of Scott's 3 groove Nitrided 6.5x284 barrel, build the stock up to F Class dimensions and put on quality glass and compete in F class at a rifle cost of under $1000. That leaves 2 grand for superior optics ..... far more important than a 1/10 moa less group size.

I assume you own neither Savage or Marlin bolt guns ? Since I do (Savage 9.3x62, custom VLR 338 RUM and Marlin 7mm08 and 270) and can tell you they will all shoot MOA or better with a hunting scope and hunting ammo.
The 338 will always shoot 1/2 MOA (5 shots), the farther the better it gets.

I'll still take a model 52D as the most accurate factory stock rifle.

Better to have a cheap 1 moa gun with good glass and know how to read wind and mirage. Money doesn't make the shooter as far too many believe today.

Betcha never shot a 4 position match with a National Match M-1, iron sights a sling and govt. match ammo. That separates the men from the boys.

WOW! I don't even know what to say to this! Dude, you are trying to Punk out guys who have been doing this for longer than you have been alive (probably, I don't know how old you are but your writing suggests that are probably about 17).

This stuff doesn't really fly around here. Just sayin'
 
"Mr. Humble" sure doesn't seem to be very humble... :rolleyes:

I'm staying out of this cat fight...I could care less about a bolt-aciton Marlin or a Salvage. :D

If yall were arguing lever-action Marlins, those are great guns. Killed my first deer when I was a kid with my dad's old Marlin 336 .30-30 Win. Still got that beautiful old rifle... It's got the gold trigger and the orignal tiger-stipe black walnut stock on it.
 
Given the context of " long rangehunting forum" , and a subject of "most accurate....." . i have not shot against a marlin, nor a winchester or a browning . remingtons and savage and custom. i feel a test with some validity is to shoot on paper in F-class matches. if they were that accurate every one would be using them . i read the subject as Most accurate...... factory...... ; not most accurate for the money .
 
food for thought when speaking of a $5K custom rifle:

Last time I looked, the record for a 100 yard group in a 22 rimfire is about .299" for five shots. The cost of the rifle built and ready to fire was about $4K. For me, that's a major feat! I know of one $1400 rifle that shoots sub .200" groups at 50 yards and shoots right at .400" at 100 yards (a rebuilt Cooper). His shooting partner uses a 40X, and groups about 60% bigger. Still good groups for sure. Neither one will run with the big dogs shooting low ones at 50 yards.

I saw a Savage custom shop 6BR that came with a sub .200" proof target using off the shelf Federal ammo (think it was Federal anyway). Saw another in 22-250 that came with a target that was about .170" using Federal ammo. Pretty good for a $1700 rifle and a factory barrel. My first Weatherby was a 30-06 Vanguard. It was built when Weatherby did the 1" warranty claim. My rifle still has the proof target in the safe. It's a three shot 3/4" (outside to outside). I paid a little over $300 for that rifle, and installed Redfield bases and rings with one of the very first Leupold 3.5x-10x scopes. It still shoots those same group sizes with the walnut stock. So much for a $5K rifle! I bought a 700 ADL in .270 for a little over $200 at Woolco (now that name tells a date). It started shooting just under an inch with factory ammo, and got it down to 3/4" with factory ammo. So much for spending $5K! That rifle with a good set of dies would probably shoot close to half inch groups. I didn't have a clue of reloading. Later I buy a .270mag in a MK.V Weatherby. Came with a 3/4" target, and shoots that size all day long. Paid the ghastly sum of $500 for it. I've seen Savage slug guns shoot inch groups, and one that shot 3/4" groups using Remington Copper slugs. So much for spending $5K!
gary
 
TC Venture 30-06 load work up at 250 yards 500$ rifle, the other bullet holes are AR spray. So much for 5000$ rifle. I know I can get this rifle to shoot even better once I play with seating depth. 178 gr. Amax IMR 4350. At 100 yards these bullets are touching some are in the same hole. This rifle does this with 200gr,168gr smks and 165 hornady btsp as well..
 

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I have been quite impressed with the consistency of the Remington Milspec rifles. I bought my first Milspec 700 in 308 when first made available, about 10 years ago and when shot out, replaced it with another, usually around 2500 rounds. Im just about at 1500 rounds on my third. Groups seem to open up to .5-.7 at 2500 rounds. I shoot long strings with a very hot barrel. I'm surprised they last as long as they do. I have used them for competition and some hunting (308). Each of the rifles shot .3MOA or better right out of the box with the same handloads, .5MOA or better with Federal Match 168 and 165gr Nosler Custom BT factory ammo. I also have a few shooting buddies that have bought these rifles for use in competition and the results are identicle to mine. Last year I bought a Milspec 700 in 300WM and it is shoots as well as the 308's. I use this for ELR. If I had to put my money on an out of the box factory rifle I would probably go with the 700 Milspec.
 
I have been quite impressed with the consistency of the Remington Milspec rifles. I bought my first Milspec 700 in 308 when first made available, about 10 years ago and when shot out, replaced it with another, usually around 2500 rounds. Im just about at 1500 rounds on my third. Groups seem to open up to .5-.7 at 2500 rounds. I shoot long strings with a very hot barrel. I'm surprised they last as long as they do. I have used them for competition and some hunting (308). Each of the rifles shot .3MOA or better right out of the box with the same handloads, .5MOA or better with Federal Match 168 and 165gr Nosler Custom BT factory ammo. I also have a few shooting buddies that have bought these rifles for use in competition and the results are identicle to mine. Last year I bought a Milspec 700 in 300WM and it is shoots as well as the 308's. I use this for ELR. If I had to put my money on an out of the box factory rifle I would probably go with the 700 Milspec.

How do you shoot out a .308 Win barrel in 2500 rounds? I've never heard of such a low round count. Experts say the .308 Win barrels will last 5,000 rounds before showing ANY signs of losing accuracy. I've heard of a lot of the pro shooters not changing them out until around 10,000 rounds.
 
How do you shoot out a .308 Win barrel in 2500 rounds? I've never heard of such a low round count. Experts say the .308 Win barrels will last 5,000 rounds before showing ANY signs of losing accuracy. I've heard of a lot of the pro shooters not changing them out until around 10,000 rounds.

That has been the traditional claim and I quess there are two questions. 1) How do they define the accuracy. 2) under what conditions are they shooting? I know of many 308 shooters that experience what I have when used for continuos, high volume, shooting in hot temperatures. They begin to see a barrel that shoots consistently sub .3MOA groups begin to open up at the same round count I am experiencing. It appears that it is the throat that is seeing erosion due to the high vulume strings in short periods of time in summer temps as high as 90 degrees. I suspect my rifles would have held their accuracy longer if subjected to a less harsh shooting environment. Even with my heavy usage, its possible that my rifles would still yield accuracy in the 1MOA range at 5000 rounds. I think barrel life is very subject to the conditions that it is subjected to and the standard that you are measuring it by. IMO.
 
defining "most accurate"? 5- 5 shot groups at 100 and 200 ? or ??? how many rifles determine it ? groups shot out of 1,3, 10 or 100 rifles of that model? i do not have one but i say the sako 6ppc single shot . it has most of the key ingredients to be it.
 
That has been the traditional claim and I quess there are two questions. 1) How do they define the accuracy. 2) under what conditions are they shooting? I know of many 308 shooters that experience what I have when used for continuos, high volume, shooting in hot temperatures. They begin to see a barrel that shoots consistently sub .3MOA groups begin to open up at the same round count I am experiencing. It appears that it is the throat that is seeing erosion due to the high vulume strings in short periods of time in summer temps as high as 90 degrees. I suspect my rifles would have held their accuracy longer if subjected to a less harsh shooting environment. Even with my heavy usage, its possible that my rifles would still yield accuracy in the 1MOA range at 5000 rounds. I think barrel life is very subject to the conditions that it is subjected to and the standard that you are measuring it by. IMO.

That's true. I guess if you're talking about seeing a .2 MOA opening up in the groups at 2500 rounds, then that could still be considered accuracy loss, regardless of it it's by .1 or 1.0 MOA. Makes sense. I don't rebarrel until a rifle starts getting to 1 MOA. Then I'll scrap the tube. So, I can see where "accuracy loss" can be different from person-to-person.
 
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