Amusing when you consider the number of $5000 custom rifles out there that won't shoot as well as either the Savage or the Marlin.
which 5000 rifle was that? what caliber?
Amusing when you consider the number of $5000 custom rifles out there that won't shoot as well as either the Savage or the Marlin.
I suggest you start reading the "road tests" in Rifle and Gun Tests to see just how many of these $5000 or more rifles won't even shoot MOA groups.
As for shooting F class against a Marlin ...... Perhaps it's because Marlin does not make an F class gun, either in cartridge or configuration like Savage does. Seems to me the Savage team does very well shooting rifles that retail well under 2 grand.
I would happily put the new Marlin X7VH up against any similar rifle that costs twice as much and clean their clock. Could also take that action, put on one of Scott's 3 groove Nitrided 6.5x284 barrel, build the stock up to F Class dimensions and put on quality glass and compete in F class at a rifle cost of under $1000. That leaves 2 grand for superior optics ..... far more important than a 1/10 moa less group size.
I assume you own neither Savage or Marlin bolt guns ? Since I do (Savage 9.3x62, custom VLR 338 RUM and Marlin 7mm08 and 270) and can tell you they will all shoot MOA or better with a hunting scope and hunting ammo.
The 338 will always shoot 1/2 MOA (5 shots), the farther the better it gets.
I'll still take a model 52D as the most accurate factory stock rifle.
Better to have a cheap 1 moa gun with good glass and know how to read wind and mirage. Money doesn't make the shooter as far too many believe today.
Betcha never shot a 4 position match with a National Match M-1, iron sights a sling and govt. match ammo. That separates the men from the boys.
anyone have any ideas of the most accurate production rifle?
I have been quite impressed with the consistency of the Remington Milspec rifles. I bought my first Milspec 700 in 308 when first made available, about 10 years ago and when shot out, replaced it with another, usually around 2500 rounds. Im just about at 1500 rounds on my third. Groups seem to open up to .5-.7 at 2500 rounds. I shoot long strings with a very hot barrel. I'm surprised they last as long as they do. I have used them for competition and some hunting (308). Each of the rifles shot .3MOA or better right out of the box with the same handloads, .5MOA or better with Federal Match 168 and 165gr Nosler Custom BT factory ammo. I also have a few shooting buddies that have bought these rifles for use in competition and the results are identicle to mine. Last year I bought a Milspec 700 in 300WM and it is shoots as well as the 308's. I use this for ELR. If I had to put my money on an out of the box factory rifle I would probably go with the 700 Milspec.
How do you shoot out a .308 Win barrel in 2500 rounds? I've never heard of such a low round count. Experts say the .308 Win barrels will last 5,000 rounds before showing ANY signs of losing accuracy. I've heard of a lot of the pro shooters not changing them out until around 10,000 rounds.
That has been the traditional claim and I quess there are two questions. 1) How do they define the accuracy. 2) under what conditions are they shooting? I know of many 308 shooters that experience what I have when used for continuos, high volume, shooting in hot temperatures. They begin to see a barrel that shoots consistently sub .3MOA groups begin to open up at the same round count I am experiencing. It appears that it is the throat that is seeing erosion due to the high vulume strings in short periods of time in summer temps as high as 90 degrees. I suspect my rifles would have held their accuracy longer if subjected to a less harsh shooting environment. Even with my heavy usage, its possible that my rifles would still yield accuracy in the 1MOA range at 5000 rounds. I think barrel life is very subject to the conditions that it is subjected to and the standard that you are measuring it by. IMO.