Most accurate, high energy, long range bow on the market?
- Thread starter TX mountain hunter
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TX mountain hunter
Well-Known Member
coues,
the only thing of that you mentioned that I or the proshop owner haven't checked yet is the limbs being straight. Surely this would be caught when coming out of the factory. I wouldn't know how to begin measuring or checking for this...
Thanks again everyone.
the only thing of that you mentioned that I or the proshop owner haven't checked yet is the limbs being straight. Surely this would be caught when coming out of the factory. I wouldn't know how to begin measuring or checking for this...
Thanks again everyone.
Pick up the bow and look down the string, across the limb tips. Sometimes you might have a very minor cant due to the cable guard, but occasionally they will get pulled out pretty good. Here in Az. if you leave one in the truck during the day, it might get hot enough to warp the limbs a bit. The cams shouldnt be turned at all so the cams should run straight through down the string. Usually pretty easy to notice if that the case.
Konrad
Well-Known Member
To begin with, I would be hesitant in shooting elk at 90 yards with an arrow of ANY configuration from ANY contemporary launch platform, regardless of draw weight. This discussion focuses more on ammunition than launch platforms.
If you are wedded to the idea, the thinnest, heaviest, stiffest arrow your sight elevation will handle would be my starting point. Concentrating on speed alone ignores basic physics issues related to flying projectiles. In exactly the same way we find long, heavy bullets performing better than short, light bullets at one thousand yards, archery projectiles exhibit the same properties.
While a heavy projectile will start off at a lower velocity (comparatively speaking) that same heavy round will retain more of it's velocity at extended ranges. The main concerns with heavy archery projectiles relates to time-of-flight (i.e. wind effects, trajectory and target movement during projectile flight…"string jumping").
If you are having tuning issues with your Swichback, I would first reconsider the shaft spine you are using. As was stated earlier, application of a helical fletching also adds to stability/accuracy at any range and Forward of Center balancing should also be considered strongly (starting at about 18%). As to broadhead selection: I have had excellent results from the Magnus Stinger two bladed broadhead, even at ranges of 60 yards (my effective range).
Your endeavors aimed at heavy-bodied animals (elk) at maximum ranges also would dictate a broadhead design that imparts the highest levels of penetration using the lowest levels of energy (velocity). It is well proven a two bladed design penetrates better than other designs regardless of impact velocity. I make this suggestion in exactly the same way as if one were using a 40 pound bow at closer ranges on thin-skinned targets. Regardless of the bow you settle on, your effective velocity at the ranges you are describing will be equivalent to those generated by lighter draw weight bows at close range. Once again, I will mention shaft spine. Another proven fact: In arrows with all other specs being the same except spine, the stiffer shaft will penetrate more deeply than a shaft that is more flexible.
Reliable penetration is the name of the game when pursuing elk sized targets at any range. The distances you are contemplating makes penetration potential even more important…even should you be forced into the sacrifice of a small level of accuracy.
In conclusion, might I suggest you dust off that lever actioned 30-30 if you really want that critter at one hundred yards instead of using a bow???
http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/selection_hunting
The above link is to Easton Technical Products shaft selector.
Easton's shafts are the only products I fool with any more.
Even if you never draw a bead on an animal at that range, long range shooting of archery is a wonderful pastime. The pros and Olympians regularly compete at 90 meters. They too use narrow, heavy for diameter, stiff shafts.
Your comments regarding point of impact changing at differing ranges (right left) suggests your arrow rest is not in alignment with the center of pressure being generated by the bow (center shot). Also, third axis leveling is critical at the ranges you are attempting due to the radical elevation angles required to hit at those ranges. This can be related to the problems encountered by those who shoot at extreme angles from tree stands or in mountainous areas.
If you are wedded to the idea, the thinnest, heaviest, stiffest arrow your sight elevation will handle would be my starting point. Concentrating on speed alone ignores basic physics issues related to flying projectiles. In exactly the same way we find long, heavy bullets performing better than short, light bullets at one thousand yards, archery projectiles exhibit the same properties.
While a heavy projectile will start off at a lower velocity (comparatively speaking) that same heavy round will retain more of it's velocity at extended ranges. The main concerns with heavy archery projectiles relates to time-of-flight (i.e. wind effects, trajectory and target movement during projectile flight…"string jumping").
If you are having tuning issues with your Swichback, I would first reconsider the shaft spine you are using. As was stated earlier, application of a helical fletching also adds to stability/accuracy at any range and Forward of Center balancing should also be considered strongly (starting at about 18%). As to broadhead selection: I have had excellent results from the Magnus Stinger two bladed broadhead, even at ranges of 60 yards (my effective range).
Your endeavors aimed at heavy-bodied animals (elk) at maximum ranges also would dictate a broadhead design that imparts the highest levels of penetration using the lowest levels of energy (velocity). It is well proven a two bladed design penetrates better than other designs regardless of impact velocity. I make this suggestion in exactly the same way as if one were using a 40 pound bow at closer ranges on thin-skinned targets. Regardless of the bow you settle on, your effective velocity at the ranges you are describing will be equivalent to those generated by lighter draw weight bows at close range. Once again, I will mention shaft spine. Another proven fact: In arrows with all other specs being the same except spine, the stiffer shaft will penetrate more deeply than a shaft that is more flexible.
Reliable penetration is the name of the game when pursuing elk sized targets at any range. The distances you are contemplating makes penetration potential even more important…even should you be forced into the sacrifice of a small level of accuracy.
In conclusion, might I suggest you dust off that lever actioned 30-30 if you really want that critter at one hundred yards instead of using a bow???
http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/selection_hunting
The above link is to Easton Technical Products shaft selector.
Easton's shafts are the only products I fool with any more.
Even if you never draw a bead on an animal at that range, long range shooting of archery is a wonderful pastime. The pros and Olympians regularly compete at 90 meters. They too use narrow, heavy for diameter, stiff shafts.
Your comments regarding point of impact changing at differing ranges (right left) suggests your arrow rest is not in alignment with the center of pressure being generated by the bow (center shot). Also, third axis leveling is critical at the ranges you are attempting due to the radical elevation angles required to hit at those ranges. This can be related to the problems encountered by those who shoot at extreme angles from tree stands or in mountainous areas.
AceOutdoors
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2012
- Messages
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I was shooting a bit one side and another with one bow I had ... and what helped me zero that in more was a better stabilizer ... come to find out it wasnt so much an up and down thing I was doing or how many pounds but that the bow was lets say making the arrow wag because it was doing a slight twist from side to side in my hand on release. I put one on that was longer and slightly heavier than the one the bow came with.
If can't tune it your self. Give up the longrange shooting. Your pro shop will set it up for 15yards not 100yards. The bow does not matter. It may help a small bit. But form is every thing. I shoot the Mathews xlr8 . 5 pins sight with the bottom pin at 105 yards. Light arrows are tough to tune but not impossible. Heavy arrows are way easier and quit the bow down.
Good luck. find your own bow that works and just shoot
Good luck. find your own bow that works and just shoot
Ill inform you there is a thing such as accurate bow and arrow set up.At my local pro shop friend of mine made a mechanical bow shooter,bow companies have them. You could test bow or different bow and arrow combinations.You would have been surprized to see the results,like some brand new target arrows one would not group and you could check everything on arrow seemed fine,remove it no problem.Guys at our shop one was first to shoot 300 vegas way back when in comp. his shop.There is no such thing as an accurate bow. The bow just stores the energy to launch the arrow, accuracy is all down to the shooter. However some bows are more forgiving to shoot and Easier to shoot accurately.
James
