Most Accurate 300wsm load?

It's a decades old myth that all barrels are different and each one shoots most accurate with its own unique recipie. Good commercial match ammo shoots very good in all of them that are properly installed.

I don't have my Sierra manual handy but their 300 WSM accuracy loads do well in different barrels.

+1............. If you have to tune to a unique accuracy recipe there are other problems.
 
I don't mean to be rude or start a debate but i think some you guys are missing the point. I don't know a single bench rest or precision shooter that would agree that factory loads should shoot well in every rifle. I know there are several schools of thought in loading precise ammo ie. OCW, OBT etc... I also understand that "match" factory ammo is much better than "economy" factory ammo and that there are certain factory loads that seem to excel in most rifles i.e. Federal's Gold Metal Match .308 win. However, I have never owned or shot a rifle that shot better with a generic factory load or a book load than it did with a load developed specifically for it by careful systematic load development. At the same time physics demands that cartridge design, bullet, powder and primer selection all play an important role in precise ammo. What I mean by that is some components are naturally better suited for a particular set up than others; hence the performance of the Federal GMM .308. That is the point of my question: to find a baseline of ideally suited components from consensus of those experienced in loading this particular round, that I can then use to develop a round that takes advantage of a much wider cross section of information than my own trial and error. Perhaps I'm the exception to the rule but the 3 different choices of .300wsm factory ammo available in my local gun stores do not make a broad enough sample to prove that there is a problem with the rifle.
 
Not debating either but think we are talking different things.

I have never been able to "load" to accuracy for a gun that shot well made factory ammo 2 to 3 moa.....

When someone brings a gun in for me to develop a load for first thing I do is take an accuracy load from a manual (or a load that has been solid in other guns of same caliber for me) and load 5 at about .050" off the lands and test. If gun hangs very near or under moa, then and only then will I proceed to "tune". This just comes from a time issue to hunt and peck thru all the multitudes of combos that are available for loads. After about a total of 3-5 bullet/load changes I get done real quick if it is a sow's ear. But at the same time have went out in range shoot 5 shots with their ammo/loads under moa and hand it back to them and tell "there its fixed", and at no charge.

Keep in mind that most of the time when someone brings one of these in the door it is because it won't shoot for them to begin with but I am supposed to build the magic load for it.

But I have never made a gun that shot 2 - 3 moa with well made ammo, (reloads or factory), turn into a solid under moa performer.

I too test and tune loads to the anal degree when I have something to work with starting off.

I think what we are saying is take a good known accuracy load from a manual for the bullet you want to shoot and test and be pleasantly surprised how easy this is or vice versus.

You posted previously that you had .75" group @ 100.....so you are at very good accuracy to begin with.....makes it worth tuning.

What is the gun's use purpose, what bullet would you prefer to shoot, what terminal performance and distances are on your wish list?
 
I see what your saying. I probably should have qualified what I meant by "won't shoot factory ammo" it was getting about 1.5 moa groups with the factory stuff. My reloading manuals (Hornady & Berger) don't list accuracy loads so I guess I should look for one that does. That is more or less what I was asking for with the question.
The rifle is a lightweight all around hunting rifle for deer, elk, moose etc. I think a realistic maximum range would be 600yds.
 
Now we are getting there! For 600 yard load it will be real hard to beat the 165 grain Nosler Accubond. I load it up to speed of 3,250 fps using Superformance. I start at 68 grains and work up to 3,250-3,275fps. Using Federal 210 primer. Max load according to Hodgdon is 72 grains and it is near case fill.

This is a real sweet spot for Superformance, not many loads that I really like Superformance but this is ONE!

Can build real speed with this combo.
 
I hit an accuracy node at 70gr of Superformance, nice groups at 3196 fps with the 165 Accubond, but wanted more lead for bears. If I was going to deer hunt with the WSM that would be my goto load.
 
Im trying to help a friend get his 300wsm shooting. His rifle is not liking factory Ammo and I am looking for a place to start. What are your most accurate loads? Which bullet? Powder & charge weight? Primer? Brass? Seating depth? I know all barrels and rifles are different I'm just looking for the combinations that seem to work well across the board to start out with. Btw his rifle is built on a long action with a 1-12" twist Shilen barrel.
Thanks and hope you all have had a successful season!
Tim

I have a Sako 75 in 300 WSM. 24" barrel with 1:11 twist. It shoots Winchester Supreme 180 Accubonds very well, but Winchester stopped making them so I had to start reloading. It's been fairly easy working up very accurate hand loads for this weapon. The recipes listed are all sub moa and 0.80" at the most. Velocities listed were done over a Magnetto speed chrono. The WSM performs best with ball powders for the most part, and is what is suggested in most of the data I've read.

180gr Accubonds. All with WLRM primer and Nosler brass
65.5 HV100 2.86 OAL 3095 fps 0.304" group (most accurate load)
66.8 W-760. 2.86 OAL. 3081 fps 0.494"
66.0 RL17. 2.86 OAL. 3101 fps. 0.522"
69.5 RL19. 2.86 OAL. 2965 fps. 0.488"

180gr Partition. Same primer and brass as above
65.5 HV100. 2.86 OAL 0.427" group. No chronograph data

180gr E-Tip. Same primer and brass
64.5 HV100 2.80 OAL 3022 fps 0.824" group

180gr TTSX. Same primer and brass
64.5 RL17. 2.90 OAL 3009 fps. 0.714" groups

200 gr Accubonds. Same primer and brass
62.8 RL17. 2.90 OAL. 2909 fps. 0.694" groups

I just bought a box of the 200 gr Hornady ELD-X. I'll post my results after I work up a good load or two.

Good luck.
 
That's great info thanks! I just got of 4 boxes of the 200gr Eld-x bullets as well and am hoping they work well.

Your welcome. Hope it helps. I've had some guys really help me out on this forum so I'm glad I can pass it on.
Let me know how your ELD-X loads work out
 
I had a rem 308 vls rechambered to 300wsm. It had a 12twist. It hammered with 190 vlds with h4350. I tried 4831sc and a couple others but 4350 was fastest without max loads. I had a window from 62.5-63.5 grains. 63.5 was a medium load for me a i had very good groups out to 1300 meters. Multiple 1000meter groups, 3shot, that i could cover with my palm.

From what i tested the 190gr is about as heavy as i would go with 4350. I know others have great luck with it up to the 230s but when i tried some 210 and 215s i had better luck with 4831sc and even h1000.

I loaded the 215s up to 2850fps with no pressure. I had a short throat on that rifle so throated properly i could have probably gotten to 2900 with h1000.

That is with a 25in barrel as well.
 
It's a decades old myth that all barrels are different and each one shoots most accurate with its own unique recipie. Good commercial match ammo shoots very good in all of them that are properly installed.

I don't have my Sierra manual handy but their 300 WSM accuracy loads do well in different barrels.
Bartlein and Krieger and many others disagree with you. I have a Bergara 14 and a Ruger PRC. Both same barrel length and configuration. Both chambered for 6.5 Creedmoor. They like different bullets and loads. My favorite Bergara load shoots .5 MOA and under (best 5-shot group at 100 yds .265) depending upon how well I do my job. The same load in the Ruger is a .75 MOA at best and never under .5 MOA no matter how well I execute. It's all in the barrel harmonics which differ with each barrel. What it comes down to here is your definition of "very good," which is certainly relative. If all you're looking to do is hit the vitals of an Elk at 300 yds, then very good takes on a whole different meaning than if you're trying to hit a 4" circle at 400 or 500 yards (various competitions), or a 10" circle at 1000 yds (F-Class).
 
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