Mil-dot Master question

[JARHEAD1371]

I'm looking at getting a Mil-dot Master for back up ranging. Does anyone have any experience using this product? Is it very accurate out to 800-900 yds on deer sized game? Thanks for any feed back.

 

[Niles Coyote]

For it to be accurate you will need to know the size of your target before using the mildot master, and as you can imagine, knowing the size of a deer at distance is guessing at best. You may be close but the more your off on target size the more the error compounds at distance.

 

[tjonh2001]

the mildot master is only as good as you are at using it.

the differance between 16 or 18 inch target that you estimate at .5mil.. these are estimates from using the mildot master.

16 inches 882yards
18 inches 1000yards

at those ranges you could easily miss. if you know the size it will alow you to get close enough. to be able to range a deer at those ranges is hard.

 

[john g duvall]

I'm looking at getting a Mil-dot Master for back up ranging. Does anyone have any experience using this product? Is it very accurate out to 800-900 yds on deer sized game? Thanks for any feed back.

You can purchase the "Mil Dot Master" at "Cheaper than Dirt" and other gun sites. Instructions are included. Nightforce scopes are already confirgured in MOA. NXS 8x32x56 with the NPR2 reticle will allow you to range targets beyond 1760 to within 3 feet plus or minus. Get the Mil Dot Card as back up and learn to use it. Know your "come ups" on your weapons to at least 1000 yards in any and all weather conditions and elevations including up/down angle shooting at range. Chart it! ("Exbal" program is great) Know your "leads" at full, 3/4, 1/2 for all distances. This comes in "handy" when you have to "snap" shoot and do not have the time to "turn a knob". Windage is critical.

 

[tjonh2001]

You can purchase the "Mil Dot Master" at "Cheaper than Dirt" and other gun sites. Instructions are included. Nightforce scopes are already confirgured in MOA. NXS 8x32x56 with the NPR2 reticle will allow you to range targets beyond 1760 to within 3 feet plus or minus. Get the Mil Dot Card as back up and learn to use it. Know your "come ups" on your weapons to at least 1000 yards in any and all weather conditions and elevations including up/down angle shooting at range. Chart it! ("Exbal" program is great) Know your "leads" at full, 3/4, 1/2 for all distances. This comes in "handy" when you have to "snap" shoot and do not have the time to "turn a knob". Windage is critical.

are youi trying to tell someone to use a mildot master that is designed for mils with a npr2 reticule that is in minute of angle. you cant do that. how are you going to read didstance beween moa and then go to a mildot calculator and get a distance?

as for the moa reticules you dont need a mildot master to estimare distance it a simple math equation.

 

[john g duvall]

are youi trying to tell someone to use a mildot master that is designed for mils with a npr2 reticule that is in minute of angle. you cant do that. how are you going to read didstance beween moa and then go to a mildot calculator and get a distance?

as for the moa reticules you dont need a mildot master to estimare distance it a simple math equation.

What I am saying is this, every one (including you) should to learn to use both. "Night Force" scopes eliminate the need to put Mils into MOA unless you buy their "Mil" dot reticle. I thought that this would be obvious. Perhaps I am not at the correct site. Have you checked your spelling? I am not given "amateur hour", only to those that wish to step forward in the right direction. Is that you or are you looking for an excuse to run your mouth?!

 

[tjonh2001]

Your right it's great to know both ways but for most why the hell would you want to know both learn to master one way. The mildot master is a must for me when using mils for ranging and holdovers. The moa is easier for me since I don't have to worry about where I put it last time I used it. Also you don't need anything to do the math.

Not that I need to justify myself to someone that is running their mouth but I do use both and I thought that I would show you a few of my toys since seeing is believing. It sounds like you like nightforce so here's a picture.

 

[6BR4ME2]

are youi trying to tell someone to use a mildot master that is designed for mils with a npr2 reticule that is in minute of angle. you cant do that. how are you going to read didstance beween moa and then go to a mildot calculator and get a distance?

as for the moa reticules you dont need a mildot master to estimare distance it a simple math equation.

NOT true
get your master out and look at the far right side same thing applies as the left side in mils

Target size that you need to know then what your MOA spacing reads in your scope then line up your findings and read the yardage in the left column same as mills

10" target that is 2.0 moa in your scope is going to range 478 yards

I prefer the R1 for wind and range holdovers because of the 1 moa spacing vs the R2 2 moa spacing = harder to get an accurate moa reading

To help the original poster mil dot masters are a lot harder to get an accurate range the farther out the target is = if your target is small especially if your off a few inches in target size and your scope isn't perfectly still then your range is going to vary a lot

good luck they are a lot of fun and worth there weight in gold

 

[john g duvall]

Your right it's great to know both ways but for most why the hell would you want to know both learn to master one way. The mildot master is a must for me when using mils for ranging and holdovers. The moa is easier for me since I don't have to worry about where I put it last time I used it. Also you don't need anything to do the math.

Not that I need to justify myself to someone that is running their mouth but I do use both and I thought that I would show you a few of my toys since seeing is believing. It sounds like you like nightforce so here's a picture.

You just made my point. Knowing both and being able to achieve mission success is not "everything".....it is the "only" thing. What happens when some one no longer has the use of his weapon and needs to use another set up in a different manner? Hence; it is critical to the mission to have the absolute best understanding and experience in the use of any system you use. I do not consider any weapon as a "toy". They are the tools that "ministers of death" use to accomplish the mission given them. Yes, Night Force is my scope of choice. I have no need to "brag" or show my "toys". Seeing is not always believing. If you have these weapons then, congratulations. These could be pictures taken from other internet sites. "Take nothing for granted". "Not everything appears as it actually is". You feel you must "prove" yourself and therefore stuck your nose into something that you might have little or no knowledge of. I'm no expert...just a "no nothing ignorant slob" out to deceive others .....right?? My record does my "talking". Oh......just one more thing...when you find yourself "on the hunt" for the worlds most deadly "game", you might want to use some "100 mile tape" or camo paint or some good burlap to keep from giving your position away. Your "toys" make for a great target. J.D. (435th CSG "ground tactical LRS" 1972-1976)

 

[Coyboy]

Ryan, like has been stated, using mil dots to range is doable but you need to know target size, and must then accuratly determine the span of that target. With practice you should be able to get good enough for deer sized game to 500 yards.

As you said back-up for a rangefinder that goes down on the hunt. I never used a mil-dot master, I should probably get one.


Some easy numbers I keep in my head based on the 3.6" span at 100yards, because I suck at remembering formulas.

nice buck 18" deep.

1 mil =18"@500 (instantly I can determine if the deer is over or under 500yards)

1 mil= 9"@250 (deer now measures 2 mils, again instant determination if deer is
over or under 250 yards)

Any deer under 250 is a dead hold if I'm using a 200 zero.

Between 250 and 500, it is easy to quickly narrow down the distance every .1 mils changes 25 yards. (example 1.9mil=275y,1.8mil=300y, 1.3 mil=425y.)

I figured this was always good enough to get a bulet in the kill zone, good enough when the RF ***** out. May-be not the best way though. I guess I would forget the MD Master and have to do it this way most of the time.

 

[john g duvall]

NOT true
get your master out and look at the far right side same thing applies as the left side in mils

Target size that you need to know then what your MOA spacing reads in your scope then line up your findings and read the yardage in the left column same as mills

10" target that is 2.0 moa in your scope is going to range 478 yards

I prefer the R1 for wind and range holdovers because of the 1 moa spacing vs the R2 2 moa spacing = harder to get an accurate moa reading

To help the original poster mil dot masters are a lot harder to get an accurate range the farther out the target is = if your target is small especially if your off a few inches in target size and your scope isn't perfectly still then your range is going to vary a lot

good luck they are a lot of fun and worth there weight in gold

Thanks 6br4me2. tjonh2001 apparently knows more about it than the rest of us. You said it better than I have, and I thank you you for that. J.D. (reconscoutsniper)

 

[john g duvall]

Ryan, like has been stated, using mil dots to range is doable but you need to know target size, and must then accuratly determine the span of that target. With practice you should be able to get good enough for deer sized game to 500 yards.

As you said back-up for a rangefinder that goes down on the hunt. I never used a mil-dot master, I should probably get one.


Some easy numbers I keep in my head based on the 3.6" span at 100yards, because I suck at remembering formulas.

nice buck 18" deep.

1 mil =18"@500 (instantly I can determine if the deer is over or under 500yards)

1 mil= 9"@250 (deer now measures 2 mils, again instant determination if deer is
over or under 250 yards)

Any deer under 250 is a dead hold if I'm using a 200 zero.

Between 250 and 500, it is easy to quickly narrow down the distance every .1 mils add 25 yards.

I figured this was always good enough to get a bulet in the kill zone, good enough when the RF ***** out. May-be not the best way though. I guess I would forget the MD Master and have to do it this way most of the time.

May I suggest making a "dope" card(waterproof) for all ranges, elevations, angles and wind for your weapon of choice? The "Exbal" program works well for making the dope chart. Muzzle speed Balistic Coe. etc are needed to help you chart your bullets. "INPUT THE CORRECT DATA AND YOU SHALL BE successful!! Minimizing the chart and highlighting the ranges at different tempatures and elevations comes in "handy" when the batteries get too cold to operate on your range finders and Speedtech SM-28's.

 

[Coyboy]

May I suggest making a "dope" card(waterproof) for all ranges, elevations, angles and wind for your weapon of choice? The "Exbal" program works well for making the dope chart. Muzzle speed Balistic Coe. etc are needed to help you chart your bullets. "INPUT THE CORRECT DATA AND YOU SHALL BE successful!! Minimizing the chart and highlighting the ranges at different tempatures and elevations comes in "handy" when the batteries get too cold to operate on your range finders and Speedtech SM-28's.

I do have dope charts for all my hunting rifles, wind drift and drop ect.

We're talking about using a mil-dot to FIND THE RANGE TO TARGET, when the electronic RF goes down. What I stated above is simple to remember and quicker than digging out a mil-dot master or distance ranging card.
Just a tip use it or not, you might see it was a reply to the original poster about the original topic.

 

[john g duvall]

I do have dope charts for all my hunting rifles, wind drift and drop ect.

We're talking about using a mil-dot to FIND THE RANGE TO TARGET, when the electronic RF goes down. What I stated above is simple to remember and quicker than digging out a mil-dot master or distance ranging card.
Just a tip use it or not, you might see it was a reply to the original poster about the original topic.

Roger that, Bravo two out