Jim’s Hunt
Well-Known Member
My preference is Redding FL bushing die and any micrometer seater
Long range reloading dies
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I think that is true for most of us. Trouble is I enjoy the chase! I've always said, don't buy cheap tools because you end up replacing them anyway. So you could have spent that total amount in the first place and been satisfied. We all do it. But I just feel if you are not trying to improve your load, either in accuracy and/or terminal ballistics, why reload... just buy factory rounds. Some will argue about cost, that they reload to save money. But I think if we are honest with ourselves cost is relative and irrelevant at the same time, because for the most part, we find ourselves trying to improve and buying different tools, powders, bullets etc. So, for me at least, the cost argument doesn't hold water.
Much of the guess work is taken out when you can measure the run out of a sized case neck and a seated bullet. Some dies cock necks, and some bullet seating systems are junk. Excellent run out can be attained using rudimentary tools, but you must check for yourself. I use a 21st-century run-out gauge, not that it is the best, but many tools will work.
Often, bushing dies cock a neck. Running a Mandrel in the neck after sizing can be critical in attaining minimal runout, and PMA makes a great product.
Lee collet dies produce very little run out, but they are not everyone's cup of tea. Lee can provide custom Mandrels to size on +/- .002. McMaster Carr sells pins that can be substituted for the Lee Mandrel, held in place with a small O Ring. These pins come in several sizes, from .0005 increments to .0001 increments. The Pins can also be used to gauge the inside of the case mouth prior to seating a bullet if you are so inclined.
I met a bullet tester for Berger, a 1000-yard shooter. He had a simple technique that produced practically zero run out, like .0002 on seated rounds. He purchased neck and full-length sizers from Forster and had them hone the neck dia he wanted....so simple. He was loading at the rifle range, checking every round after the bullet was seated. I think that Forster charges $35 to hone a neck dia, and you have to buy the die from them.
Wilson has started producing some very fine bushing dies for use in the press, and I prefer them over Redding. Unfortunately, Wilson does not offer a custom service on wild cat cartridges, nor to they have a very wide selection of caliber choices, but their products are superb to say the least.
The purchase of some type of run out gauge should be first on your list if you want to improve how straight your bullets are seated.
Often, bushing dies cock a neck. Running a Mandrel in the neck after sizing can be critical in attaining minimal runout, and PMA makes a great product.
Lee collet dies produce very little run out, but they are not everyone's cup of tea. Lee can provide custom Mandrels to size on +/- .002. McMaster Carr sells pins that can be substituted for the Lee Mandrel, held in place with a small O Ring. These pins come in several sizes, from .0005 increments to .0001 increments. The Pins can also be used to gauge the inside of the case mouth prior to seating a bullet if you are so inclined.
I met a bullet tester for Berger, a 1000-yard shooter. He had a simple technique that produced practically zero run out, like .0002 on seated rounds. He purchased neck and full-length sizers from Forster and had them hone the neck dia he wanted....so simple. He was loading at the rifle range, checking every round after the bullet was seated. I think that Forster charges $35 to hone a neck dia, and you have to buy the die from them.
Wilson has started producing some very fine bushing dies for use in the press, and I prefer them over Redding. Unfortunately, Wilson does not offer a custom service on wild cat cartridges, nor to they have a very wide selection of caliber choices, but their products are superb to say the least.
The purchase of some type of run out gauge should be first on your list if you want to improve how straight your bullets are seated.
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I currently use this for all my Hornady seating dies that didn't come with a micrometer. https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/00005044097/click-adjust-bullet-seating-micrometer
You are so right about run out. I bought a 25-06 last year and had not owned one for thirty years. Couldn't find brass anywhere and bought Remington loaded ammo. It shot remarkably well. But I wanted the brass to load hammers in it. The only dies I had were forty years old, or older. I'll not bash the brand. First resize I saw a serious problem. Brought my wife over to the table where I was priming them and asked what is wrong with these. She picked one up stared at it turning around and around, then said one side of the hole is thinner than the other. One firing, don't know if it was the brass,my Prime suspect, or the dies. Sense not all had run out I'm going with the brass. Found some Norma brass at "wazoo" prices ,but they got me shooting the hammers.That and a foster neck bump die. So,all good. I've been looking for a Good B78 for couple of decades, I've had it restocked, it looks fantastic now and shoots great for a 47 year old rifle. Barrel looks scary in a bore scope, but nice tight groups. So I didn't look in the barrel anymore.
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I have not gone the mandrel route yet, but it has me looking. I went with the Redding type S competition bushing set for my 280AI. I spent more $$$ on this die set and bushings than 5 or 6 sets for other cartridges. Was it worth it? I am not sure. My other dies from Forrester, RCBS, Lee and Redding seem to get the job done. I shoot for fun and hunting.
Good looking rifle!
New stock and forearm. Metal work was pretty good so I just touched up a spot or two.
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It helps to start with good components. Quality brass is important. If your going to shoot that far you need ammo that is straight and you need low sd es. That usually means playing around with neck tension and bushing dies. It also means very consistent charge weights which means you need a good scale. It's a lot more than just buying a certain brand of dies. If you're not using quality brass that often means neck turning and primer pocket uniforming. At those distances the little things matter.
Bullet Central Micron die is the best die I have used for the WSM. It sizes like it's supposed too, unlike some of the normal off the shelf dies.
Whidden Custom DiesI am getting a long range rifle put together well for over a year now but, it was pushed back so I could build a hog gun Ill be posting some about in a few weeks, then I wanted a suppressor for said hog gun and then a summer carry gun and then a Styer came up that I couldn't pass up. But anyway I am now doing it and have no other guns to build or buy that I need and am refusing to do so until this project is finished. At least that is what I'm telling myself.
But my question is about dies. I have done some reloading in the past but never really tried or attempted to make "match/long range" Ill be shooting whatever load I find in the 1000-1750y range. I'll do some grouping at lesser, but once developed I will most likely work a load up with a lower velocity load for plinking steel inside 1000.
I have always used traditional dies and have a set on hand, my question is do I need something like the first just to be able to change my seating depth as I will be loading long for caliber and use my standard sizing dies. Or more like the second set to be able to change neck bushings and have the option of a body die when needed.
RCBS MatchMaster Competition 300 Winchester Short Mag (WSM) Bushing
The RCBS MatchMaster Competition die sets are the perfect sets of dies for the precision handloader looking to craft the most precise round possible....www.midwayusa.com
Redding Competition 300 Winchester Short Mag (WSM) Bushing Neck
The Redding Competition Bushing Neck Sizer Die Set includes a Competition Bushing Neck Sizing Die, Body Die and Competition Seating Die. Both the...
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
It was sort of mentioned, but not really expanded upon earlier in the thread; how to decap w/o using an expander ball. Can buy a pin retainer for most die brands without the expander ball on it, but since buying the Lee Universal decapping die I've been removing those assemblies from all of my other dies.
My mandrel die vote goes to Porter Precision Products. It uses machine shop gauge pins for the mandrels.
My mandrel die vote goes to Porter Precision Products. It uses machine shop gauge pins for the mandrels.
I have a good bit of Nosler brass and I believe some Norma, however if it come to it I will order a box or two from ADG when the do a run. I have a good scale that goes to .001g as well as a powder trickler that I can't remember the exact decimal in grains not grams but I believe the grains are .1 accuracy.
As far as having dies honed. Does that need to be done to my rifles chamber? or is it just to smooth the surface of the die for better sizing and longevity.
As far as having dies honed. Does that need to be done to my rifles chamber? or is it just to smooth the surface of the die for better sizing and longevity.
Your typical full length die will size way down then the expander will open then neck. The honed die will only squeeze the neck slightly below. Typically you send them a fired piece of brass and they set the die off that. The advantage is your not working your brass as hard and less likely for the expander to pull your neck off center creating runout. You can do the same with a bushing. People do have good results with the honed dies.
