Long range arrows???

[188MULE]

Find a bow you can shoot really, really well at 40 yards preferably one advertised at over 300fps. This could be your typical whitetial setup. Upgrade your sight to a 7-9 pin set up and get some small pins for the long ranges. Get a smaller peep, and extend your sight out as far as you can to increase your sight plain. Go to a good containment dropaway. Do not shoot light arrows 400 grain min. All fixed blade heads will plain or impact differently than you target tips even if tuned, so shoot broad heads most of the time. If legal in your area shoot a good mechanical, like the rage or the old rocky mountain gator. Arrows like gold tip hunters have worked well for me and are reasonably priced, number each one a shoot them at 40 yards with broad heads many many times and keep track of all the impact points. Factory arrows with the factory four inch vanes work great after weeding out the flyers. When you get to the point where you can't shoot at the same bull at 40 because your sick of ruining arrows move out to 50 then 60 and so on. Beyond all else your form will allow you to be proficient at extended ranges. And if you have a noticeable cross wind, get closer, especially if your shooting a fixed blade.
I took my 40 yard whitetail setup out to a 100 yd setup by doing these simple things. Also I shot every day for many months hardly ever closer than 50 yards and when I couldn't hit I always realized it was my form.
Like I said the factory goldtip hunters have worked for me very well but I always find a couple flyers in each dozen, you wouldn't see it out to 30 but after that they will start to show up.

 

[shortpants]

Find a bow you can shoot really, really well at 40 yards preferably one advertised at over 300fps. This could be your typical whitetial setup. Upgrade your sight to a 7-9 pin set up and get some small pins for the long ranges. Get a smaller peep, and extend your sight out as far as you can to increase your sight plain. Go to a good containment dropaway. Do not shoot light arrows 400 grain min. All fixed blade heads will plain or impact differently than you target tips even if tuned, so shoot broad heads most of the time. If legal in your area shoot a good mechanical, like the rage or the old rocky mountain gator. Arrows like gold tip hunters have worked well for me and are reasonably priced, number each one a shoot them at 40 yards with broad heads many many times and keep track of all the impact points. Factory arrows with the factory four inch vanes work great after weeding out the flyers. When you get to the point where you can't shoot at the same bull at 40 because your sick of ruining arrows move out to 50 then 60 and so on. Beyond all else your form will allow you to be proficient at extended ranges. And if you have a noticeable cross wind, get closer, especially if your shooting a fixed blade.
I took my 40 yard whitetail setup out to a 100 yd setup by doing these simple things. Also I shot every day for many months hardly ever closer than 50 yards and when I couldn't hit I always realized it was my form.
Like I said the factory goldtip hunters have worked for me very well but I always find a couple flyers in each dozen, you wouldn't see it out to 30 but after that they will start to show up.

Great advice, thanks for sharing! I practice form inside my garage at 3yds. with my eyes closed. It has really helped me shoot more consistantly.

 

[nomad_archer]

First off I wouldn't worry too too much about getting new arrows ACC's are plenty good enough for what you will be doing and alot of guys in the field archery game use them with good success. Stick with what you have with the ACC's if they are shooting well for you. As others have said a heavier arrow is better when you are pushing the distance because like bullets the heavier arrows resist wind deflection more. Plus the additional weight gives you better kenetic energy down range which is a very good thing.

When it comes to arrows if they are the right spine (which is a measurement of the arrow deflection) is right for your bow then thats what you stick with. The next part of arrows is the straighness which is typically on a hunting arrow +- .003 and a weight tollerance which is +- a few grains. For the most part you wont be able to notice the difference between an arrow the has a straightness of +-.001 and +-.003. The top shooters in the world might but for me the only difference I noticed was price tag associated with the straighter bunch.

For fletching most long range target archers go with a lower profile shorter vain in the 1" to 1.5" range. But for hunting you want a little more so a 2" vane should do the trick. I personally shoot 2" blazers with a slight 1-2 degree offset out to 80+ yards not problem. But again the vane you choose is up to you and its pretty tough to go wrong but I would stay away from the helical vanes as they create too my drag.

Next you need a bow you are comfortable with and you can shoot well. You dont need a new bow if the one you got works for you and you shoot it well then stick with it just make sure its tuned properly and everything is in time.

For your sight this is an entirely different world and really is a personal choice. I use a sure-loc sight bar and a single pin or multi pin head depending on what I am doing. Sure-loc has great customer service and I havnt found a way to break the equipment and I have treated it like most hunters a little rough but it always works. No matter what sight you get if you go with a single pin adjustable sight make sure it is solid repeatable adjustments and tracking just like a good scope. Be careful of some of the sights that say "micro adjustable" that usually means that they have a screw with a knob on the end for adjusting the sights but they have no positive click or measurable way to know how much the sight as been adjusted. I have learned this the hard way and have a pile of sights in the basement to prove it.

Although no matter how good your equipment is if your form is wrong you will not be able to shoot well period. Make sure your form is down and shoot straight.

Sorry that was a bit long I spent alot of time shooting and playing with bows and arrows with some great shooters before I started thinking about the long range rifle shooting game.

 

[Scot E]

When it comes to arrows if they are the right spine (which is a measurement of the arrow deflection) is right for your bow then thats what you stick with. .

The only thing I would caution here is that I have had a few bows, many of my most recent, that required arrows with different spines than what was listed on the charts. The charts/software is a good starting point but if you can't get them to shoot you will have to play with spine above and below the suggested use.

I shoot a pretty fast bow, HCA Iron Mace, and was having issues getting 340's to fly. I figured I needed to go up in spine due to it being a pretty aggressive draw. After a long few days I actually ended up dropping down to 400's and my groups immediately shrank. Figuring out bows at times can be a chore but when you get it right!

I missed that you have ACC's now. Those are really good arrows in fact they are on my to try next list! Having the carbon on the outside will make them a touch more durable for field shooting. I do a lot of stump shooting while I am hunting. They are also a bit thinner than the FMJ's which helps with penetration.

 

[shortpants]

The only reason I was going to switch from my ACC's is because I have always thought for more range I needed a lighter arrow but you guys have convinced me to stick with the ACC's. I will experiment with Fobs and Blazers and choose what works best. Thanks for all your help guys, I LOVE THIS SITE!

 

[nomad_archer]

The only reason I was going to switch from my ACC's is because I have always thought for more range I needed a lighter arrow but you guys have convinced me to stick with the ACC's. I will experiment with Fobs and Blazers and choose what works best. Thanks for all your help guys, I LOVE THIS SITE!

Good luck and guys going with a lighter arrow really came from the speed crazy that is archery. Everyone whats to see their bow shoot 5 zillion fps and it also helps in 3d but max ranges in 3d around here with IBO sponsered events is 50 yards. So choosing arrows for distances is like choosing the right bullet for distance and the critter you are hunting, heavier is usually better within reason.

 

[Scot E]

The only reason I was going to switch from my ACC's is because I have always thought for more range I needed a lighter arrow but you guys have convinced me to stick with the ACC's. I will experiment with Fobs and Blazers and choose what works best. Thanks for all your help guys, I LOVE THIS SITE!

My pro shop says they can do an offset even on ACC's. That is what I would do with the Blazers. They fly like darts then, even with fixed heads.

 

[shortpants]

Thanks guys!!!

 

[sp6x6]

I have shot ACC 360's since they have been around, long time. The FMJ IS basically same product but built with alum. on the outside. Several of my friend shoot comp. My hunting buddy is MT state recurve champ, but he can shoot 6'' group at 100 yard with compound. I see thess guys go back and forth all time blazer vs 4'', Fmj vs ACC. tHEY ARE ALL GOOD product. I set up a lighter bow for stands and speed goats 62# allegaince,45/70 cheeta 335 gr. I punched these in one side and out the other on elk also. But normal elk set up 410 gr ACC, tipped w/ steel force fat head.The newer fast bows may need stiffer spine, my buddy had to go to371 for his broadheads out of a Destroyer, Im shooting superslims out of mine but less weight and shorter draw. I shot 21 animals one year with the ACC set up up to 1000# eland.When I was getting set for that hunt, I shot my bow every day for a year and most for the next 6 mnths. Cold first shot, I would shoot a 5'' BUTTER dish lid at 50 yards.Start my shooting that way.PRACTICE, PRACTICE

 

[hollywood88]

i switched to victory vaps. i compete on ben pearsons pro staff and some of the other guys on the staff recommended em for field archery and hunting

 

[jsolomon]

I know I'm late on the post but I shoot semi pro fita and nfaa, and u need the smallest possible shaft you can find and put a decent amount of foc on it. The smaller diameter is gonna cut thru wind better and maintain speed longer. Its also gonna increase you ke because your focusing it on a much smaller area. For the money I would shoot Easton Axis arrows, with the CORRECT SPINE. The shaft is really small and I can get basketball groups at 100 with a bowhunting setup. I didn have enough pin nocks to shoot my X10's at the state fita shoot so I shot my Axis 400's and won with a 889 dropping all of my points at 50 and 40
meters

 

[lboom]

carbon express maxima hunters will add 20 yards to your effective kill.a good fall away rest will add another 20 yards. I have used acc,gold tip and about every thing out there. I practice to 140 yards,first pin at 40 and last at 130. I shoot rage and muzzys depending on what Im hunting although I have had great luck with wasp jack hammers. The carbon express really shoot the fixed blade heads well and the blazer vanes will stabilize the fixed blade broadheads just fine. I used acc with a internal weight to kill a cape buffalo with a 2 bladed steel force,another good head. Challenge yourself to the long distances,it will make you much better at the 60 to 100 yard shots,If you need more pins,look and the sonoran sight,my sight has 10 pins,my 2 cents