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Lock-Tite on action screws

How many times did you shoot it.
Was it more accurate after you shot it more or did it lose accuracy.
Not all actions like to be at 55in lbs.
Or it may need bedded with pillars.
Hope this helps. 👍
 
I don't on mine.

Is the rifle new? What is the stock made of? If the screws are getting loose when the rifle is shot, the stock must be compressing during firing. Putting locktite on the screws would not help if this is case.
The stock looks like some Resin epoxy./ Bergara B-14.
How many times did you shoot it.
Was it more accurate after you shot it more or did it lose accuracy.
Not all actions like to be at 55in lbs.
Or it may need bedded with pillars.
Hope this helps. 👍
It's been to the range twice; 2nd time, it was less accurate. ( I'm doing load development) I removed the stock again to paint it. I contacted Bergara for A previous Bergara rifle, and they said 55-inch lbs.
 
I have a Bergara B-14 300 Win Mag . I tightened the action screws to 55-inch lbs. After shooting it, I re-checked the action screws, and they had loosened. Should I apply some Blue lock-tite?
YUP,.. I Do !
As a former Gunsmith, I've seen, the Loosening of Screws, many, MANY,. times.
Degrease all threads with, Acetone / clean with, Tooth Brush and Add, One Drop of, Blue Loctite on each screw, Torgue Properly,.. DONE !
 
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There is something wrong when a modern rifles action screws are coming loose. I would never use loctite on them, but cleaning the male and female with Acetone like Lefty suggests may help. But having a few factors like load development, painting the stock, loosening action screws, you'll probably be best to tackle one at a time. I'm not sure load development should continue until you get the stock to stay in place.
 
While this post may be a bit more than needed for this subject I felt it might help some. I'm USA Ret., former (B4), and sniper instructor ('96-2000). We tended to operate in very adverse environmental conditions as well as rough handling of our weapon systems. That said, we would blue loctite everything and indexed the action screws and optics rings locking nuts for a a quick visual before operations to ensure torque has not been lost. This was a technique we shared with the DMR crowd at unit level as well. Some rifles don't creep under heavy use, and some would creep just under marksmanship training/firing on the range. By using LT as SOP we eliminated the issue. I stressed this technique heavily with the STUD's when at the schoolhouse. Nothing like having a train wreck on movers when qualifying and risking failure of the course. My rifles for hunting are considered work guns just like my service guns were. They get banged around in transit in NW MT, as well as up and down mountains and r ravines. All I do is check the index marks before racking and stepping off on a hunt. Too easy.
 
I'd hit the distal end of both action screws w/an Emory board, then sharpie them, torque to 55#, remove and see if they're bottoming out on anything they shouldn't be. In my somewhat limited experience screws coming loose often "feel" tight but are "head spacing" on the distal end rather than the screw-head.

I've seen the above bottom-out situation on the front-most scope-base fastener of several different brands. I've also seen it happen w/Sako and Kimber rifles front action screw.

If I think something needs a bit of "stickum", I use clear Nail polish.
 
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I was taught that fasteners should not be torqued dry but with a light lubricant. Both male and female threads should be cleaned with solvent, dried and then lubed, assembled and torqued. In the case of action screws, blue Loctite or a similar product (never red Loctite or other 'permanent' type product!) is an acceptable lubricant and thread locker.
 
I have a Bergara B-14 300 Win Mag . I tightened the action screws to 55-inch lbs. After shooting it, I re-checked the action screws, and they had loosened. Should I apply some Blue lock-tite?
If have that issue I use a product called Vibratite. (I think I spelled that right). It never gets hard and allows you to disassemble and reassemble a couple of times without reapplication. I also use it on Sig 226-229 and 1911 grip screws. Keeps thing tight but easy enough to remove. That being said, I have never had a big issue with properly torqued screw on synthetic stocks, especially pillar bedded stocks. Stocks made out of "lumber" ( which I really like) are a different story due to the fact that even the driest stock will change with the weather.
 
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