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Labradar and .224 bullets

Bought a brand new Labradar. During the maiden trip to range, it read only 1 out of 8 to 10 shots from my .22-250. I switched to a .30-06 and it read every one. I moved the radar all around in relation to the muzzle except for directly overhead. I aimed, re-aimed, and aimed the radar again. I was shooting at a 200 yard target butt.

Research is guiding me towards an external trigger from JKL.

Before buying anything else, I am considering one more trip to try aiming both the radar and firearm at a closer target butt. I am also considering building something to mount the radar over the top of the firearm. Is there anything else I should try before putting more money into an already expensive piece of equipment? I figured at $500+ the darn thing would read all of my shots. Not cause me more gray hair and cost me more money.

The .22-250 is not suppressed and does not have a brake.
I actually own a LabRadar and use it almost every day without much trouble. I did read the manual I'm ashamed to admit since I took a real hit to my manlyness...but since I shoot BB guns I guess that doesn't really come into play? My smallest airgun shoots .177 and my biggest one shoots .575...yea! .58 caliber 350gn hollow points.
If you can get past all my failings as a serious shooter read on and maybe learn the TRUTH, warts and all, about the LabRadar!

First look:

How airgunners use it (better than most other users):

What you can do with Labradar that can't do with optical or magnetic chronographs:

Those BB Gun shooters sure know a lot of things that some LRH readers know! And, they learn all that stuff shooting pellets and slugs that cost pennies at most! Oh, some of them also learn wind shooting in their backyards! Hmmm:

Good shooting...whatever you shoot,
 
I spoke with Labradar. They want me to position the .22-250 muzzle about two inches behind and six inches to the side of the unit. Blast pressure from .22-250 not enough to trigger the unit unless all are positioned perfectly. I believe I had them configured that way at one point. But, I will try again to confirm or deny.

According to LR, only place unit on top when shooting large caliber firearms with brakes. And, do not use an external trigger as it can provide false readings. I did not expect this large of a learning curve. Was hoping for....unbox it, use it, and love it. Not quite the case.

Will post results after next range trip.
I have one and since i bought a JKL recoil trigger no more problem, i shoot 22lr, 308 ,223 Rem and 6br
 

Just what WA6.5x47 said, it only goes to 3800-3900 fps. I had to use my Pro Chrono for my 20-250 using 31 grain Hammers. 4600 feet per second is too much for the orange machine.

 
Bought a brand new Labradar. During the maiden trip to range, it read only 1 out of 8 to 10 shots from my .22-250. I switched to a .30-06 and it read every one. I moved the radar all around in relation to the muzzle except for directly overhead. I aimed, re-aimed, and aimed the radar again. I was shooting at a 200 yard target butt.

Research is guiding me towards an external trigger from JKL.

Before buying anything else, I am considering one more trip to try aiming both the radar and firearm at a closer target butt. I am also considering building something to mount the radar over the top of the firearm. Is there anything else I should try before putting more money into an already expensive piece of equipment? I figured at $500+ the darn thing would read all of my shots. Not cause me more gray hair and cost me more money.

The .22-250 is not suppressed and does not have a brake.
Use the remote trigger, you won't miss anymore. It's only about $25.
 
Use the remote trigger, you won't miss anymore. It's only about $25.

The inertia trigger and JLK's magnetic mount make life easier when triggering is a problem. I read somewhere that LR does not recommend mounting the unit above the muzzle in some applications. I "think" the blast sensors are on the sides.
 
Everyone uses the JKL trigger as it's more popular, but this was actually the original one: https://pietrecoiltrigger.com/

The only time I ever use doppler trigger, is for BC calculations. I get a more consistent BC using that trigger for some reason.
I bought this one because he was the inventor. He did not patten it and it got copied. That being said that fixed my triggering issues. Like you I have still had bullet tracking issues with smaller bullets. I have thought about getting a better aiming device. I recently saw where a guy used a section of a soda straw taped to the top to aim with. I think I am going to try that first. My buddy bought one the same time I did and has never had the first problem with his. I don't think they are all created equally.
 
The only real problem I had was when using my 500 S&W rifle. I was working up loads with several different bullet weights and powders. I got many "failed to read" issues. As it turned out, the velocities varied from less then 1,600 ft/sec to 2,300 ft/sec. The LR must be set up for pistol velocities OR rifle velocities where 1,600 ft/sec is the breaking point. If you are shooting bullets that around 1,600 ft/sec it can be problematic to switch back and forth.
I ran into the same issue when I loaded some sub-sonic 223 ammo for pest control. Once I switched it to pistol I had accurate readings.
FWIW I love my LabRadar and don't go to the range without it.
 
There are adjustments for both sensitivity and offset on the Labradar and between the two it registers every rifle and pistol I've tried with it. I used the trigger for the big braked .338's
 
Thank you for the replies.

I went back to the range today. Set up Labradar just as the company recommended. Two inches ahead of the muzzle and six inches to the side of the muzzle. I made sure the unit was pointed directly towards the target both horizontally and vertically.

The unit registered all of my shots. Appears problem solved. I may load a second round for each 0.2 grain powder increments for the velocity node test. It would suck if the unit did not register one of the ten load increments.
 
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The only problem with that set-up is that normally I have the rifle muzzle well out past the end of the bench. That leaves no place for the LR unless you set it up on a tripod in front of the bench and that makes manipulating the buttons difficult.

I have my LR on the front edge of the bench and several inches behind the muzzle & 6" to the left. It generally works but I do occasionally get an acquisition error.
 
Understood and agreed. I mount my unit to a piece of 3/4" plywood with a 1/4" bolt. Using sandbags for counter weight. I need to haul a couple clamps with me. I am still working out the kinks of my design. Certainly not a "plug and play" device.

I did not know they max below 4,000 fps until after the purchase.

I will buy the rechargeable power pack.
 
Understood and agreed. I mount my unit to a piece of 3/4" plywood with a 1/4" bolt. Using sandbags for counter weight. I need to haul a couple clamps with me. I am still working out the kinks of my design. Certainly not a "plug and play" device.

I did not know they max below 4,000 fps until after the purchase.

I will buy the rechargeable power pack.
rogerstv,
When yo go to buy your power pack look on line for a battery bank. I found an identical battery bank for half the price. Only difference was it was a different color.
Dave
 
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