Kimber Montana Accuracy

pontoon

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Now that I've decided not to shorten my Kimber Montana 84L .270 Win, I'm thinking about how to improve the accuracy. There is this article, which is interesting, and I'll probably do some of that stuff. Kimber Montana bedding - The Firing Line Forums Would you recommend doing these tips? If so should I do it myself or hire a gunsmith?

I'm also wondering about muzzle jump/flip. I read that people found that the rifle is less accurate if the front end is unsupported since it's so light. If that's the case, should I install a muzzle brake or magnaport on the Montana to improve the accuracy? I'd rather not do it if I can help it because I worry I'll forget ear plugs and wreck my hearing while hunting.
 
There is a lengthy post over on 24 hour campfire dealing with accurizing a Kimber. You'll have to search for it.
 
There is a lengthy post over on 24 hour campfire dealing with accurizing a Kimber. You'll have to search for it.

Yeah, I read it. See the link I posted above? It's actually a thread where someone copy and pasted the 24 hour campfire post. Here is the one you refer to: Montana tinkering.... | Hunting Rifles | 24hourcampfire

I'm thinking about doing it myself. But the thread doesn't address whether a muzzle brake is a good idea for accuracy. Basically some threads/articles have said that allowing the rifle to free recoil caused accuracy to drop. On the thread I linked they actually bash lead sleds for being damaging to rifles/stocks, but I was reading elsewhere that it's really the best way to figure out how accurate the rifle is (and not how accurate you are). Any recommendations on rests or lead sleds would be helpful too.
 
I used the link you posted as reference to two Montana's that I own. The first one I ran the bedding about in inch into the barrel Chanell. I later removed the bedding back to the lug and the rifle shot much better. The second one I just bedded the lug and tang area and it shoots good also. Both guns showed a considerable improvement when all was done. The calibers are 7wsm and 300wsm. These are light guns for the caliber and you definitely feel the recoil. I never had a problem shooting good groups by allowing the gun to free recoil. IMO the light weight really makes paying attention to fundamentals more important.
 
1/2 -3/4" MOA on mine. Opened box, cleaned, and shoot. I never have messed with them. You need to hold the forearm when shooting a light rifle. Many who cuss them do not know how to shoot a light rifle. My Rem Ti is the same. I love Kimbers......
 
1/2 -3/4" MOA on mine. Opened box, cleaned, and shoot. I never have messed with them. You need to hold the forearm when shooting a light rifle. Many who cuss them do not know how to shoot a light rifle. My Rem Ti is the same. I love Kimbers......

100% true! I had a 300wsm Montana that shot great right out of the box and I currently have a 308 Adirondack that shoots 1/2 moa (3 shots)consistently even with factory ammo,it's all about good technique and a steady front and rear rest shooting very light rifles off the bench. I actually lightly hold the top of the scope instead of the forend which seems to keep the muzzle down and the rifle recoils straight back making 'me' a lot more consistent.
P.S a lighter cheek weld is good too.
 
What kind of accuracy should I expect from a front Caldwell "Rock Jr" rest (it's a height adjustable U shaped bag rest) and a Caldwell Universal Rear Bag (U shaped bag)? I ordered those to help me remove human error and get the rifle sighted in perfectly and see how accurate the gun really is. I thought about the lead sled but heard it can damage the gun. I'm wondering if those rests I ordered will be good enough to remove almost all human error? Or should I have gotten the lead sled instead? I want the ability to say "this ammo is better than that ammo for sure" and not wonder if it's the ammo or if it's me. Similarly I want to know whether the gun shoots sub-MOA or not, and if not, I don't want to wonder "is it me or the gun?"
 
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