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JE Custom and Lone Wolf 30-338 Lapua Improved Weatherby Mark V

One of the best posts i,ve seen in a long time. It is apparent that every one involved had a lot of good points resulting in you the customer being happy.
That is what i would call the best deal out there, where everybody wins....Good luck with your rifle and please post some groups in the near future.....What a build....Thanks...Pat
 
Autorotate nice looking rig....

Is this a stock Weatherby action? What type of work did you do to the action?

I'm planning on rebarreling my Mark V and wondering if I should do any work to the action.

Thanks
 
For as good as it looks it shoots even better:)

The action was a donor from a 300 Wby Synthetic.

JE Custom sprinkled his magic blue print pixie dust on the action as part of the build. It enables the gun to shoot Sub MOA at 1/2 mile+ with the shooters eyes closed, in wind conditions of 20kt gusting to 30 kts and mirage....But he charges extra for the pixie dust:)

On a serious note...most accomplished long range shooters will think a rebarrel without some action blueprint work to be a waste of money.

Most "full monty" blueprint/action truing jobs are on par with the price of a fluted custom barrel, and in order to give your rifle build it's best accuracy potential, most precision long range hunters/shooters would advise you to have that work done when re-barreling.

Action blueprinting specifics will vary from smith to smith, but smiths that build precision long range rifles are very likely to agree with what a blueprint is, especially once you specify your accuracy goals with them.

I would discuss your goals with three different smiths (build weight, max eff range vs. intended critter, and your budget), and see which one fits you the best.

Ask 'em if you can't just send them the link to this thread, or this 7STW thread, and ask how to take your gun from where it's at to one of those, or some twist variant of. Both of these rifles would make fantastic carry rifle build blueprints to tweak your build from.

Good luck!
 
Great build and I really appreciate your work in this project. Your reamer design is exactly the ticket I wanted so you saved me these steps in reamer design. Of course everyone has different taste and desires in what the want so my build is with different action, barrel, trigger, stock, etc. but in the end will be along the same weight as your rifle. When I get totally finished and it is ready to roll I will post it on this site. I was wondering if you could tell me some about your procedures in fireforming cases, starting loads, accuracy loads etc.. I do not want to run anymore projectiles down the barrel thannecessary because of barrel life. This is a throat killer round. Your info would be greatly appreciated
 
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Great build and I really appreciate your work in this project. Your reamer design is exactly the ticket I wanted so you saved me these steps in reamer design. Of course everyone has different taste and desires in what the want so my build is with different action, barrel, trigger, stock, etc. but in the end will be along the same weight as your rifle. When I get totally finished and it is ready to roll I will post it on this site. I was wondering if you could tell me some about your procedures in fireforming cases, starting loads, accuracy loads etc.. I do not want to run anymore projectiles down the barrel thannecessary because of barrel life. This is a throat killer round. Your info would be greatly appreciated

Trophyhunter-Be happy to share. Send me a pm if you still have questions after this post, and we'll get 'em squared up via pm/email or a phone call if needed.

On the reamer design (body taper, shoulder angle, neck dia, lead angle, throat specs) I have absolutely zero regrets. In fact, it's turned into the model for all my future wildcats on those respects. I would be remiss to take full credit though...there were some great minds that assisted me, answered questions, and shared their knowledge/experience with me....most all right here on LRH.

Case prep
1. Sinclair .338 neck expander
2. Turn to uniform neck wall thickness of .0135
3. Use .334 nk die to neck case down to form false shoulder, using a gauge JE Custom made for the rifle to get the die close, then finally using the chamber and bolt closing force to set the headspace to fine tune the die.
4. Size remaining cases, creating false shoulder, verifying every 5th round still chambers.
5. Load
6. Shoot
7. Out comes a beautiful fired case

I've hunted with non fireformed cases, just necked 'em down a shade more, to give an extra .0015 or so worth of headspace to ensure chambering in the field. Probably not recommended if you're on a dangerous game hunt...but the fireform loads shoot as good as the formed brass, with my limited abilities (3/4 to 1 MOA at 1K yards).

One recommendation-obtain a piece of fired brass (like from me:) so that your smith can ensure any feedramp/mag lip modifications are complete. I've had zero issues with the 37.5 deg shoulder and the rifle that JE Custom built...but it'd be a shame for you to get the rifle back, only to find a snag or two when you attempt to repeat fired formed cases through your setup...every rifle is unique, and you're smith should want to fireform cases or have a formed case to ensure feeding reliability. I might just know someone that could square you a way with a case if your using this reamer print :)
 
This is a throat killer round.

I agree. However, it's my humble opinion, that throat life can be greatly effected by the pace of firing (and the subsequent temperature the throat area is subjected too), and the cleanliness of your barrel. Some smart fellas on here turned me onto Boretech Eliminator, and I clean to a white patch standard after every shooting session. JMHO...keep the barrel cooler than "warm to the touch" by limiting your rate of fire, and don't shoot repeated strings with carbon/copper and other nastiness in your pristine custom barrel...and these firebreathers will hold precision/accuracy potential longer than you might think! Just my 2 cents. Good shooting! gun)
 
I agree. However, it's my humble opinion, that throat life can be greatly effected by the pace of firing (and the subsequent temperature the throat area is subjected too), and the cleanliness of your barrel. Some smart fellas on here turned me onto Boretech Eliminator, and I clean to a white patch standard after every shooting session. JMHO...keep the barrel cooler than "warm to the touch" by limiting your rate of fire, and don't shoot repeated strings with carbon/copper and other nastiness in your pristine custom barrel...and these firebreathers will hold precision/accuracy potential longer than you might think! Just my 2 cents. Good shooting! gun)

Autorotate,

Thanks for you info, it should help me a lot. From what you are saying I could basically work up my loads while fire forming the cases at the same time. I was planning on fire forming cases and then just truing the necks up. According to my calculations there should be .002 to .003 left in the neck. Neil J made my dies also and he wanted me to try the TN approach. I have used this approach with 6PPC's and 22PPC's in the past. No problem if I do not like it I will turn necks and use the .334 NK bushing. I might also experiment with some trail boss or pistol powder in fire forming with no bullet and use the case shoulder to set the cartridge head space. I use to have a 284 Jamison which 404 Jeffrey cases. Biggest mistake I ever made in a cartridge. It was a beast in its time and was accurate. But making the cases was a nightmare. I really got a education on case preparation. Nothing but chamber pressure issues. The rifle has been rechambered to a 7 WSM and works flawlessly and just as accurate.

I have a Stiller TAC 338 action for this build that uses the same mag box you have which is center feed. I have never had any problems with center feed boxes. I have them on all my rifles because they are the best in my opinion.

I also use the Boretech (best) and use patches only. I never shoot over 4 or 5 shots without cleaning. The way I break my barrels in it usually takes 20-25 shots, cleaning after every shot. I agree barrel heat and cleaning is the key to the life of the barrel.

The load you mentioned, 103 G of Retumbo, is that your best load and what you are using now? You also mentioned some hotter loads which I would not start out with, but how was the accuracy for the higher velocity rounds. I will probably start around 100 G and work up. gun)
 
Autorotate,

Thanks for you info, it should help me a lot. From what you are saying I could basically work up my loads while fire forming the cases at the same time. I was planning on fire forming cases and then just truing the necks up. According to my calculations there should be .002 to .003 left in the neck. Neil J made my dies also and he wanted me to try the TN approach. I have used this approach with 6PPC's and 22PPC's in the past. No problem if I do not like it I will turn necks and use the .334 NK bushing. I might also experiment with some trail boss or pistol powder in fire forming with no bullet and use the case shoulder to set the cartridge head space. I use to have a 284 Jamison which 404 Jeffrey cases. Biggest mistake I ever made in a cartridge. It was a beast in its time and was accurate. But making the cases was a nightmare. I really got a education on case preparation. Nothing but chamber pressure issues. The rifle has been rechambered to a 7 WSM and works flawlessly and just as accurate.

I have a Stiller TAC 338 action for this build that uses the same mag box you have which is center feed. I have never had any problems with center feed boxes. I have them on all my rifles because they are the best in my opinion.

I also use the Boretech (best) and use patches only. I never shoot over 4 or 5 shots without cleaning. The way I break my barrels in it usually takes 20-25 shots, cleaning after every shot. I agree barrel heat and cleaning is the key to the life of the barrel.

The load you mentioned, 103 G of Retumbo, is that your best load and what you are using now? You also mentioned some hotter loads which I would not start out with, but how was the accuracy for the higher velocity rounds. I will probably start around 100 G and work up. gun)

I'm not familiar with the "TN" approach, forgive my ignorance.

I did use the Cream of Wheat and Pistol powder on another rifle, but could never get out of my mind, the thought of "muffin" debris in my pristine uber precise custom barrel.....my time is precious, probably like many shooters, so I've come to developing a load with my first batch of virgin brass cases, and enjoying/learning the rifle by shooting during fireforming.

103 grains is what I use now with the 210 Berger. I'm ashamed to admit it...but the Lapua case has allowed 108 grains of Retumbo under a 210 VLKD to be fired with no classic visible/tactile signs of pressure. I won't post the velocity. Again I post that, out of shock/shame, and the hope it saves someone from doing something dumb. Some smart folks on this board, pointed me to completing a "pressure ladder" using Norma brass loaded (still consistent, but just softer/not as tough as Lapua) in one grain increments until pressure signs were evident. This would enable me to get in the ballpark for final load development with the Lapua brass, as it is so tough...it might be easy to get into pressure trouble, and not even know it, especially with a very concentric chamber.

H1000 and the 200 NAB work well together in this round so far as well. gun)

I just got a box of the Hornday 225 grainers with what looks to be a .351 G7 BC...anxious to see how they shoot. I'd like to try the new Viht N570 with that bullet in this chamber, but I haven't cracked the code on obtaining "botique" powders like that here yet. Yet. :D

So you've got a bunch of great bullets for LRH to pick from..200 NAB, 208 AMAX, 210 VLD, 225 Hornday (not sure that's a proven hunting bullet yet)...:cool:
 
The TN means tight neck, I would classify any case neck that has less than .006 clearance in that category. Gives better bullet alignment bu also can give more pressure at times. With Neal's FL die design the alignment can not be improved upon in my opinion.

I did a lot of research and talked to all the bullet manufactures and all of them but Berger told me their bullets would not expand below 1800 FPS. Berger advised 900 FPS. I went with the 30 cal and not the 338 mainly because of bullet selection. I also do not plan to shoot over 1500 yds which is fine for the 30 cal. Berger does make a 338 300 grain but imagine the extra recoil. If what I was told is true than the Berger VLD is the only choice if you go under 1800 FPS. You go below 1800 right around 1,050 yds with the 210 VLD at 3,250. Around this range using anything but a VLD, it would look like you shot the animal with a bow using a arrow with a field point on it.

The VIHT powder is tops in my book. I would probably try N170 over the 570. I have not had very good luck with the High Energy powders giving accuracy. N165 works great in the short mag cases.

Enjoyed and appreciate your comments and info. Will get back once I start shooting this animal. Rifle is chambered and in the process of having the brake installed. Still have bedding and metal coating left which should only take me a day or so. No stock painting which is a first for me. I got a McMillan swirly. Should have NF 5.5-22x50 G7 scope in 3 weeks so then it will be ready to rumble. Thanks again.
 
Autorotate:

Very very nice rig. Have you gotten any farther with any loads since the initial ones? Have you taken anything with it? I imagine you must have since I just ran across this thread and it is well over a year old. But anyway, good luck.
 
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