Issues with Truoil on walnut stock

[Bob Wright]

I've used a 50:50 mixture of the two rather than apply the ArmorAll first and then the TruOil. It seems to work just as well, and it's the method I had originally read vs the two step process.
I've got a nitrile glove on my hand to work in the mixture, not bare hands.

I'll try that too. Glad I have an extra stock to play with. The original Truoil process takes a week or more. The author claimed he could do one in a day or faster with Armor All.

 

[Dr. Vette]

I'll try that too. Glad I have an extra stock to play with. The original Truoil process takes a week or more. The author claimed he could do one in a day or faster with Armor All.

It is MUCH faster, but I find it to end up with a glossier finish.
I've not tried a "less glossy" version of ArmorAll to see if that makes any difference at all. I don't use any on my cars, so I just used what I had laying around.

 

[Bob Wright]

It is MUCH faster, but I find it to end up with a glossier finish.
I've not tried a "less glossy" version of ArmorAll to see if that makes any difference at all. I don't use any on my cars, so I just used what I had laying around.

The owner of this one likes the glossy look. However I do have multiple processes to dull out the glossy to satin. It'd simply use the steel wool at finish or Birchwood Casey stock conditioner which easily takes that gloss back to a great satin sheen. Then apply a wax or furniture polish to add a layer of protection.
Edit to add:
The last 2 or so coats can be Tru oil only to shine it up.

 

[Bob Wright]

Delete duplicate

 

[Bob Wright]

Post some pictures when your done.

Well, almost finished. Figure I'm going to call it after 2 more applications of Truoil. Then I'll give it a week to be sure it's cured and do a furniture polish buff.
I learned a lot this time.
1. I will probably do my next stock using a grain sealer/sand prep and get after the Truoil when the stock is slick and filled.
2. The "off the shelf Win M70's used some lower grade walnut blanks unless you bought a super grade model. This wood appears to be pretty close to sap wood blanks. Seems the density and porosity of the grain was more present and a lighter color that the Remington BDL scrap stock I experimented with.
3. The Armorall treatment did work on the scrap stock. I noticed the gloss was flat. After a couple of layers of just Truoil brought the gloss right back. I need to play with this more.

Here is the result minus furniture polish.

Here is the Remington stock with Armorall/Truoil finsh

Here is the Winchester stock with original finish that was stripped off. That is quite the "orange finish" as it aged. I did successfully fill the gouges in the wood using the sanding powders and slowly built layers. These filled missing wood nicely.
I'll hopefully finish and return to my friend in a couple of weeks.

 

[crashlanding]

That looks great I've used tru oil on a few stocks, the last one was bringing an inherited Winchester mdl. 71 back to life, I have always been happy with the results. Question, how did you handle not getting the checkering all gummed up? It still looks crisp

 

[Bob Wright]

That looks great I've used tru oil on a few stocks, the last one was bringing an inherited Winchester mdl. 71 back to life, I have always been happy with the results. Question, how did you handle not getting the checkering all gummed up? It still looks crisp

It was in great shape physically but I had to strip the lacquer. From there I masked every panel with double layers of blue tape to protect them while sanding. When I started into the truoil process I used a tooth brush and applied 2 coatings of truoil. From there I just used extreme caution to not use steel wool in there or the 600 and 800 grit sanding. I thought of disaster everytime I was working in that area! It came out safe and sound though.

 

[crashlanding]

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/uncle-mick.308843/ Here's a link to a post I made in 2022 using tru oil

 

[Bob Wright]

Wow!!! That looks mint!

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

Just two that We did i Tru oil. Did probably over 50 over the years and never took picks or they were on film. This is a TC Classic 22 from 2000 and a Marlin 336 from 1954 and a Ruger MK II 77 stock is a few years old with use.
Have a lot of pics some place and also how to us TruOil. You can dilute it and then use in a sprayer (which I found to be the best).
If you are going to sand/steel wool make sure that you the oil is cured and then the stock is spotless of sanding/steel wool particles.


Edit:
I think that I did well over a dozen hand rubbed coats on the TC Classic and then did a few Spray Coats. You can get a very "Shinny" Look or a "Satin" Look on the way you finish. If you do it "RIGHT" the coating finish will last and be "HARD" to resist scratches/Mares. The Ruger Stock in the pics was used in the field shooting dozens and dozens of Chucks and still looks great.
The TC Classic 22 I kind of retired from shooting Squirrels because it looks so GOOD. May sell it some day. It's a shooter and a LOOKER!
If you have some questions on using TruOil I would be glad to help you out, just PM me.

 

[Bob Wright]

Just two that We did i Tru oil. Did probably over 50 over the years and never took picks or they were on film. This is a TC Classic 22 from 2000 and a Marlin 336 from 1954 and a Ruger MK II 77 stock is a few years old with use.
Have a lot of pics some place and also how to us TruOil. You can dilute it and then use in a sprayer (which I found to be the best).
If you are going to sand/steel wool make sure that you the oil is cured and then the stock is spotless of sanding/steel wool particles.

All nice results! I'm learning a lot during this journey. I never was a wood finisher. More like Homer Simpson, lol. But it's coming along.

 

[Clem Bronkoski]

Try Hortnsby's tongue oil. Gives a nice dull dark finish to walnut.