MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
Interesting how many of you are so concerned with copper fouling.
I shoot F-Class matches, I do not clean the copper out completely during a season. I run a patch soaked with Hoppe's No.9, one pass, add more Hoppe's, pull back to chamber and another pass out the muzzle. I do this AFTER a match, put the rifle away, travel home, then proceed with patches only, one wet with Hoppe's, leave it sit for an hour, follow with a dry patch, repeat one more time, then patch wet/dry until a patch is clean of CARBON/BLACK on the patch, dry the bore and chamber and rinse with petroleum spirit, allow to evaporate then ONE pass with an oily patch and store away.
All of my comp barrels get scoped after 200-300 rounds, this about the time that they get a thorough cleaning of copper, it lets me know if a set back is required and re-chambering due to throat erosion. I have ALWAYS found that a squeaky clean barrel is LESS accurate than one that is clean of carbon but still has some copper on the bore.
I honestly believe that more barrels are ruined by too much cleaning than shooting.
I know many people, some on the F-Class mound too, that clean even if they only fired a few sighters. Their barrels have to be cleaned, or barrels switched, after a string of shots. This I do not understand, as good barrels should take many more shots before the fouling effects accuracy, I know this to be the case in my barrels, all but 2 are Harts top line target barrels. Next season I will try Brux barrels on my 264 and see how they stack up. I think they should be just as easy to clean, fingers crossed.
Cheers.
gun)
I shoot F-Class matches, I do not clean the copper out completely during a season. I run a patch soaked with Hoppe's No.9, one pass, add more Hoppe's, pull back to chamber and another pass out the muzzle. I do this AFTER a match, put the rifle away, travel home, then proceed with patches only, one wet with Hoppe's, leave it sit for an hour, follow with a dry patch, repeat one more time, then patch wet/dry until a patch is clean of CARBON/BLACK on the patch, dry the bore and chamber and rinse with petroleum spirit, allow to evaporate then ONE pass with an oily patch and store away.
All of my comp barrels get scoped after 200-300 rounds, this about the time that they get a thorough cleaning of copper, it lets me know if a set back is required and re-chambering due to throat erosion. I have ALWAYS found that a squeaky clean barrel is LESS accurate than one that is clean of carbon but still has some copper on the bore.
I honestly believe that more barrels are ruined by too much cleaning than shooting.
I know many people, some on the F-Class mound too, that clean even if they only fired a few sighters. Their barrels have to be cleaned, or barrels switched, after a string of shots. This I do not understand, as good barrels should take many more shots before the fouling effects accuracy, I know this to be the case in my barrels, all but 2 are Harts top line target barrels. Next season I will try Brux barrels on my 264 and see how they stack up. I think they should be just as easy to clean, fingers crossed.
Cheers.
gun)