Is The 5.5~22 Nightforce my only choice?

[Broz]

on the NXS, the clicks were not very audible, and felt mushy, at least compared to Leupolds and Zeiss.

Maybe it wasn't the norm for the clicks?

the NF's were very gray, just plain, did not add any definition or contrast in comparison.

It may just be my eyes, or did I look through a few duds? I know how much people seem to like them.

The more you describe it the more it seems you were not looking through a Nightforce. I doubt you will find any scope at any price with better or more positive feel to the turret detents. They are simply rock solid and you can tell where you are even with out looking.

I would never refer to the NF glass as "gray" I have probably owned a total of 20 plus NXS over the years and they all were consistantly good. So I don't know what to tell you myfriend. Maybe some little kid had launched some buggers on the glass of the display model...

Jeff

 

[Scot E]

You are stuck with the NF Jeff

I have two at the moment, everything except the glass is fantastic, the glass is average to my eyes.

I have been waiting for a couple of Premiers for a few months now, were supposed to be available last month.....

If you use a big rail, which I guess you will be to shoot way out there, you don't need the Zero Stop model & they are cheaper over here

The Marchs seem to be a pretty good scope, but over here they are pricey & the 5 year warrantee doesn't bring me on at all

FWIW,

The US importer for March has stated a number of times that they will take care of warranty issues past the 5 year mark. The 5 year period evidently comes from some issue importing from Japan I believe. That isn't really confidence inspiring but it at least something.

Scot E.

 

[bigngreen]

I wish I could find a Vortex Razor to feel up, I know it's FFP but it has everything else in abundance and the 125 MOA is attractive, IF you can see what your trying to hit at ELR behind the reticule.
That Nightforce is just such a solid combo of reticle, available elevation, glass that is good enough to shoot at the range you can dial and bullet proof construction that can handle the incidental horse rolling or some other rodeo action

 

[Broz]

If you use a big rail, which I guess you will be to shoot way out there, you don't need the Zero Stop model

Greg, I have played this game and have this to offer. Get a zero stop!! We all know that the last one or two clicks at either end of the turret should be avoided with any scope. I set up an 8x32 and a 5.5x22 before usng a custom milled base to be bottomed out when zeroed. One zeroed at 100 (I think it came out 46 moa.) the other at 600 to get more dial up. I really feel that the last 2 to 3 clicks, maybe more, are not in tune with the rest of the elevation grid. I also feel if you hit the bottom, even being careful, it can cause you to move your zero. So my advice here is to set the zero at least 1 moa off bottom with a zero stop to protect the internals.

Not sure if he does it for the same reasons or if it is just coincidence, but I have noticed Shawn Carlock seems to stay away from the extreme top and bottom of his dials too. I never asked but just felt he has the same experiences I have had.

Jeff

 

[Broz]

and bullet proof construction that can handle the incidental horse rolling or some other rodeo action

LOL!!!!!!!! Thanks buddy!! That made me laugh, and laughing reinsurres me of every broken rib from the high altitude rodeo last week. The scope retained zero perfect as it was still in the cabin. The fianl scores came in this week and it was said by all the judges that it was a full 8 second ride right up to the time the horses *** hit the dirt as we went over backwards. That gave the horse 5 contact points and disqualifies him. My final score was an 82 for the ride.... One more week and I will be back on him.

Jeff

 

[Broz]

Are you on the mend or are you still a couch dog?

Doing great! Never hit the couch but did spend a day or two in a chair with a pillow behind my back. Been back to work since monday. Even got prone once to go after a LR yote but I was too slow. Next time he better duck.

Thanks
Jeff

 

[Broz]

Just ordered the 5.5~22x56 , NP-R1 with HS and ZS. It will be shipped today.

Scott E. Thanks for your input and I agree there is a gap for this type of scope. I also feel for the ELR shooter Nightforce has it covered, or at least as close as I can get to what I need. I think as this type of shooting group grows, and it is growing, we will see the market demand new options. I have done this long enough to feel very comfortable about what I need to be reasonably successful past 2000 yards.

So here is my dream scope just in case anyone a NF is listening.

*Top end power of 28X

*Elevation of 125 MOA, more would be great but I want to be reasonable and 25 more moa would get us to 3000 yrds in most cases.

*Thin subtensions like the NP-R1 or maybe even a slight bit thinner. One MOA reticle suntensions. Possibly a floating crosshair or dot but keep em fine. Maybe use the NP-R1 .070 and thin it down slightly for the floating aiming point.lightbulb

*Second focal plane. I want the target to grow in size as I crank it up, not the reticle. I will do all my spotting on full power so the BS about the reticle is in tune at all power settings is worthless to me. Yes it takes good conditions but so does ELR so let go for the best senerio. Plus if I want to reduce power setting to double the amount of MOA hold over in the reticle I have that option.

*Zero Stop and the HS turret that is in 10's. Like the 20 MOA turret , it is fine with me.



Thanks to all that contributed here. It helped me and I did learn about what is out there.

Jeff

 

[Scot E]

Jeff,

Curious what you didn't like about their new MOAR reticle.

View attachment MOAR Reticle.pdf

Scot E.

 

[Broz]

Jeff,

Curious what you didn't like about their new MOAR reticle.

View attachment 13517

Scot E.

Subtension thickness ( H = .140) being twice the thickness of the NP-R1 which is .070 .

Jeff

 

[Scot E]

Subtension thickness ( H = .140) being twice the thickness of the NP-R1 which is .070 .

Jeff

Gotcha. Too bad, that is a well designed reticle IMO.

Scot E.

 

[Broz]

Gotcha. Too bad, that is a well designed reticle IMO.

Scot E.

I agree Scott. A very nice reticle!! Just not what you need for 2000 yard plus shooting. Too Bad.

Jeff

 

[Scot E]

I agree Scott. A very nice reticle!! Just not what you need for 2000 yard plus shooting. Too Bad.

Jeff

Do you have a time frame yet on the LRKM? I dream about that gun at night!

Scot E.

 

[Broz]

Do you have a time frame yet on the LRKM? I dream about that gun at night!

Scot E.

Nothing for sure yet. But I haven't asked since we started the build.

Jeff

 

[Kiwi Greg]

Greg, I have played this game and have this to offer. Get a zero stop!! We all know that the last one or two clicks at either end of the turret should be avoided with any scope. I set up an 8x32 and a 5.5x22 before usng a custom milled base to be bottomed out when zeroed. One zeroed at 100 (I think it came out 46 moa.) the other at 600 to get more dial up. I really feel that the last 2 to 3 clicks, maybe more, are not in tune with the rest of the elevation grid. I also feel if you hit the bottom, even being careful, it can cause you to move your zero. So my advice here is to set the zero at least 1 moa off bottom with a zero stop to protect the internals.

Not sure if he does it for the same reasons or if it is just coincidence, but I have noticed Shawn Carlock seems to stay away from the extreme top and bottom of his dials too. I never asked but just felt he has the same experiences I have had.

Jeff

Hi Jeff all you need is a rail with enough angle in it so that at your desired sight in distance you have less than 20 moa underneath, then there is no way you can use the wrong zero.
Having 20 moa dials has made this much easier to acheive.
I agree that running the scope right at the top & bottom of its travel should be avoided if possible as well as being "rough" when operating in those areas.