Is Remington Peters brass really that bad?

[MarkInPA]

Is Remington Peters brass really that bad? I was working with new, virgin .308 Winchester brass this morning. It was bulk brass. I expanded the case mouths, chamfered and deburred. I then proceeded to cull my undesirable brass by checking the case necks for concentricity and then by case neck thickness. I only pulled a few for concentricity over .002" but I pulled a pile of them for neck thickness variances by more than .0015". Just looking at my piles of brass, I'm guessing that I am keeping 1/3 of them and 2/3 are getting tossed or repurposed. I think I might run these through my sizing dies just to see what happens.

I only have the Remington brass because I got them for nothing. If I was buying brass, I would be looking at different options.

 

[WeiserBucks]

Short answer is yes.

 

[Quintus]

Depends on what you need out of your brass. I have a run of 260REM brass that is on the 10th cycle and been in use since 1999. It has been through load dev on over a dozen different bullets and has never been annealed. The batch has killed stuff as recently as this year (whitetail doe, 155gr Lapua Mega, IMR4831, F210M, Ave. Vel. 2614) and most of it that has not been lost or kept with the harvested horns is still running. Most of it at some point, or most points has been pushed fairly hard and the primer pockets are still in pretty good shape. They have been great hunting/practice and fun shooting brass. I don't know what it takes to win money competitive shooting so maybe that is where it falls off and becomes so bad?

 

[06 SB]

For hunting it is just fine for normal hunting distances. For target and long range it is not. I have used a ton of RP brass over the years for hunting but when it comes to long range stuff, I use Lapua or Norma if the former is not available.

 

[can1010]

brass is only as good as the person prepping and shooting it, don't care what the brand is and to be honest 95% of shooters can't shoot the difference anyways.
there is a mental mind block out there about brass that it has to be this or that brand to shoot well. give your brass a good prep and fireform then develop a load that that brass likes.

 

[AkleyFan]

Concentricity will be addressed after firing in your rifle, neck thickness variations of .0015 is nothing to worry about for brass you'll use for hunting. The 308win isn't that picky. You could setup some tests of your "best" brass and "worst" brass - I suspect the differences will be negligable, if noticable at all. I cull nothing I don't abosultely have to (for hunting, not benchrest). Besides, we're all a bit of a Scientist at heart - go get nerdy and burn some powder.

 

[Tiny Tim]

When was the brass made? That may have some impact on its quality. What are your shooting expectations: distance, desired dispersion, etc..? Have you considered or are you willing to neck turn? Is this for a factory rifle? Chamber? or full custom?

 

[LDHunter]

I don't know about Remington brass that's being produced in the last few years but I've had no problems with Remington brass I acquired several (over 10) years ago.

Having said that, I am hoarding my Lapua brass for most of my serious long range shooting adventures. I still do pretty good brass prep but Lapua seems to be more consistent than almost any other brass I've used.

Yes it's expensive but isn't everything you need for truly long range shooting?

BTW... It seems that Berger factory ammo uses Lapua brass and their ammo seems to be remarkably accurate and obviously after you shoot it you have fire formed Lapua brass to handload. The ammo, if you shop it carefully on Ammo Seek dot Com, is not nearly as expensive as you might imagine.

 

[MagnumManiac]

What do you expect?
If you're running a SAAMI chamber, then what difference do you believe running 'match' grade or premium brass will achieve?

If you're running custom chambers, brass should have been sourced and chosen even before the reamer print was started, thieve questions bewilder me.
YOU can turn necks, trim primer pockets, de-burr flash holes and set interference fit, this is not difficult to do. This is standard practice for me.
I run Lapua brass, I don't load it straight out of the box like people say they do, Eric Cortina being one of them, it just doesn't fit my chambers that way.

Cheers.

 

[ARlife4me]

R/P is the only brass across pistol and rifle that I've had bad to off center primer holes. And not just that I had to cut down/reduce de-prime rod to fit (had to to test issues), but these were on 357sig cases. I've used some I'll say "economical " brass that's been better. Jag brass in 10mm was only worse as it had many cases separations on 1st firings.

 

[ARlife4me]

What do you expect?
If you're running a SAAMI chamber, then what difference do you believe running 'match' grade or premium brass will achieve?

If you're running custom chambers, brass should have been sourced and chosen even before the reamer print was started, thieve questions bewilder me.
YOU can turn necks, trim primer pockets, de-burr flash holes and set interference fit, this is not difficult to do. This is standard practice for me.
I run Lapua brass, I don't load it straight out of the box like people say they do, Eric Cortina being one of them, it just doesn't fit my chambers that way.

Cheers.

Now you're sending me down a rabbit hole. Yikes

 

[FEENIX]

Is Remington Peters brass really that bad? I was working with new, virgin .308 Winchester brass this morning. It was bulk brass. I expanded the case mouths, chamfered and deburred. I then proceeded to cull my undesirable brass by checking the case necks for concentricity and then by case neck thickness. I only pulled a few for concentricity over .002" but I pulled a pile of them for neck thickness variances by more than .0015". Just looking at my piles of brass, I'm guessing that I am keeping 1/3 of them and 2/3 are getting tossed or repurposed. I think I might run these through my sizing dies just to see what happens.

I only have the Remington brass because I got them for nothing. If I was buying brass, I would be looking at different options.

No, they are not that bad once culled. I do not usually do as extensive of a culling process as you did on virgin brass, regardless of brand, other than visual inspection and basic case prep/sizing. I do it after it is fire-formed off the rifle's chamber. Good luck!

 

[FEENIX]

I run Lapua brass, I don't load it straight out of the box like people say they do, Eric Cortina being one of them, it just doesn't fit my chambers that way.

Cheers.

This!

 

[xsn10s]

Depending on what rifle and range you're using them for the culling process might not be necessary. It may make you feel better, and it could give you some better accuracy/ performance. but the extra work might not be worth your effort. Since you already culled them load 20 or more of each selected brass and shoot them for comparison. Do a full comparison once the brass has been fire formed to the chamber.